UCA Install, What do you guys use for an impact wrench?

justinsstang

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In the process of installing my BMR lower reloc. brackets with LCAs, UCA with Mount, adj PHB, and front and rear 1.5" drag springs. Got all but the UCA & Mount and front springs done.

Reason I stopped is the UCA takes a 240 ft-lbs wrench to get the bolt under the rear seat loose lol... I have a regular socket torque wrench that only goes to 150 ft-lbs.

I'm thinking... I need a damned impact wrench. Is there any corded ones worth a damn for under $100 at local stores? I tried to break that bolt loose with my torque wrench, literally gave everything my 150lb ass has and couldn't break it lol :chairfall:...

Need some advice on what kind of impact wrench to get. I don't have an air compressor is why I didn't mention getting an air one, and also didn't really want a cordless so that I don't have to worry about charging it (cords don't bother me).

Thanks for any help.

Also, I worked for several hours yesterday on just the passenger side BMR LCA relocation bracket. That thing did not fit in right at alllll. I had to bend it with a pry bar several times to get it to line up right, and even then I still only got the axle weight bolt half-ass in. It's not in straight. I'mma hit it with an impact and just rape it in to the hole (lol) and then have the bracket welded lolol. :dead2: I may have cussed BMR a few times during this process. Luckily Kelly told me that passenger side on some cars having problems is normal and I kept working on it.
 
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SNKPWR

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Well first, wrong section to post this.

Second, why would you use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt? Just put a breaker bar on it to remove it, then a torque to tight back down on the new bracket.

Also, my bmr relo brackets fit great and they were only made a few months ago.

Lastly, I use a cordless Milwaukee half inch impact and it works awesome but def more than $100
 

weather man

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Bending stuff that needs to be aligned correctly is dicey. Give Kelly at BMR a buzz.
 

DeepimpactGTCS

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When I did my upper control are I used a breaker bar and a jack handle. I also believe it's only torqued to 130ftlbs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BadPiggy

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First...wrong section for this thread.
Second...an "air" impact wrench is called pneumatic.
Third...under $100 for an electric? Try Harbor Freight or Northern Tools.

Remember, you get what you pay for.
 

BMR Tech

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You should be able to rent a tool that will meet your 240 requirement for the forward UCA Mount bolt, as well as the 200 for the UCA to UCA Mount bolt.

Glad to see you were able to get the passenger side on. As long as you got the holes to line up, you should be good.

To those who see the "bent" comment....he is likely referring to the upper strap. On some cars, the angle of that strap does not perfectly jive with the angle of the OEM Mount on the back side. "Making" it line up is perfectly fine. Whent he Upper Strap bolt is torqued, it will conform. Perfectly fine.
 

Steve@Tasca

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If you plan to continue wrenching it might be time to invest in a compressor, they're incredibly useful and the tools they give you access to can be invaluable.

You absolutely get what you pay for in air tools though so if buying new you won't get off super cheap. If you know where to look and what to look for there are deals out there.

I bought my Ingersoll IR-231 used off the Snap-On truck after a professional mechanic traded it in so it had seen HEAVY use before I got it. I've owned it for almost 30 years now and the thing still rocks.





Besides the impact you have access to air hammers (amazing tool), ratchets, sanders, drills etc.

Couldn't imagine not owning air tools.

-Steve
 

csamsh

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You should only ever use your torque wrench for tightening.

That being said, get a breaker bar and slide some black iron pipe over the end. Cheater bar, works great.

You can probably rent a big torque wrench for tightening the bolt when you put the new one on
 

durr4456

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Torque wrench is a measuring tool, not a breaker bar.

That's how I've always had the impression of how it should be used.
 

fdjizm

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That awkward moment when your torque wrench reads the same as you weigh.
 

justinsstang

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I just got an impact wrench from lowes a couple hours ago... little did I know, you can't adjust the torque settings on a impact wrench. Lol! Looks like I'll need a damned big torque wrench anyways. This corded impact wrench goes to 350 ft lbs... Not safe to zip up the 200 ft lbs bolt and 240 ft lbs bolt right (unless I want a broken bolt)?

I've never used a impact before and damn it took that bolt under the seat off like it was nothing after I about killed myself trying to pry it off manually. D=







On another note, my BMR UCA Mount has 2 holes, which one should I install the UCA in for a 1.5" drop? It came with instructions labeled "UCA and Mount", but says nothing about the BMR mount in any of the instructions, just talks about me reusing the stock mount instead.
 

skwerl

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IMO the instructions from BMR on their UCA mounts suck and are confusing. They refer to upper and lower holes but they show the mount on the bench upside down so you have no clue which way is up. Best bet is to ask Kelly. I've installed 3 of them and still have no idea.
 

SNKPWR

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I run a heavy equipment repair shop and while we have air and pneumatic tools, ALL of my mechanics depend primarily on battery impacts. The snap on ones are very very good and will handle 99% of what youll need an impact for when working on a car
 

BMR Tech

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It's up to the customer to discover what holes work best. That's why it's not in the instructions. Kinda like, when you buy wheels, they don't tell you what tires to run.

On that note, typically the upper most hole is best suited for a lowered car that has LCA relo brackets. The lowest position is typically best for a car that does not have LCA brackets.....OR for a very serious drag car.

Many ways to skin a cat. Best bet is to test, but it can be a pita.
 

Wes06

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I just got an impact wrench from lowes a couple hours ago... little did I know, you can't adjust the torque settings on a impact wrench. Lol! Looks like I'll need a damned big torque wrench anyways. This corded impact wrench goes to 350 ft lbs... Not safe to zip up the 200 ft lbs bolt and 240 ft lbs bolt right (unless I want a broken bolt)?

I've never used a impact before and damn it took that bolt under the seat off like it was nothing after I about killed myself trying to pry it off manually. D=

On another note, my BMR UCA Mount has 2 holes, which one should I install the UCA in for a 1.5" drop? It came with instructions labeled "UCA and Mount", but says nothing about the BMR mount in any of the instructions, just talks about me reusing the stock mount instead.

i use my impact for removal, everything being installed is torqued properly
 

justinsstang

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On that note, typically the upper most hole is best suited for a lowered car that has LCA relo brackets. The lowest position is typically best for a car that does not have LCA brackets.....OR for a very serious drag car.

Upper hole it is. And I can see how it'd be a pita... getting the stock one off was a bitch lol. Haven't even put in the new one or done the front springs still. Gotta work overnight tomorrow and it got cold out so I'll probably wait til my work week is over to finish now =/ At least I found that I can get the alignment done for $69 and they'll use my camber bolts. Yee. Lol

They won't adjust for pinion angle though... guess I gotta do that myself before I bring it. Didn't ask about the panhard adjustments, I'm not sure how to do that yet either. Plan on learning after I get the rest of the stuff on the car
 

Riptide

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Biggest issue for me was torquing the nut on @ 200 ft lbs. I had a torque wrench for it but no vise. Without a vise it was a pita. I had to put a cinder block over the mount and have my friend who is a pretty burly guy stand on the thing to keep it from rotating on me while I tried to get it to click over.

Compressor and impact was used to get the bolt under the seat out. That was the easy part.
 
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