Installing Power Stop Z17 Evolution + Rotor and Pad Kit; Front & Rear (11-14 Std GT) on my 08 GT

Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by MasterofDisaster, Jun 27, 2020.

  1. MasterofDisaster

    MasterofDisaster Junior Member

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    Why: I installed these brakes on my 2008 Mustang GT because the stock brakes were warped, and this was an opportunity to upgrade my daily driver. The 2011 – 14 Mustang GT has 13” front rotors which are larger than the rotors on a 2005 – 10 Mustang GT.

    The larger front rotors will fit under stock 18” Mustang wheels. You can reuse your 05 – 10 calipers, but you must have the larger 2011 – 14 caliper brackets.

    Caliper brackets are very expensive online. It's much simpler to buy new front calipers from AutoZone, remove the brackets, install the brackets up front, and save yourself a headache.

    You can buy or borrow a Rear Wheel Disc Brake Tool with adapters from AutoZone. You can buy one from Harbor Freight or RockAuto. The cube tool will not work.

    Parts:
    1. Power Stop CRK5943 - Power Stop’s Evolution Geomet® Coated brake kits – includes front and rear rotors, pads, grease, and hardware
    2. If you have a 2005 – 10 Mustang GT, you need Motorcraft BRBC-11 Brake Caliper Brackets, Replaces OE Number: CR3Z2B292A. They're expensive online, and it's easier and cheaper to buy 2011 – 14 Mustang GT front calipers locally, and take off the brackets.

    The rotors and pads are available from http://americanmuscle.com or https://www.rockauto.com/.

    Installation Time: One long day.

    Tools Required:
     wheel chocks
     floor jack
     jack stands
     11mm box end wrench
     speed bleeder
     old, empty milk jug
     bucket with gallon of water
     two old towels
     ratchet, preferably a flex head
     torque wrenches
     12mm socket
     13mm socket
     14mm socket
     15mm socket
     strong bungee cord
     standard screw driver
     Rear Wheel Disc Brake Tool with adapters.
     cheater pipe
     large pry bar
     thin pry bar like a Dasco Pro
     flat bastard file
     large C-clamp

    Installation Instructions:
    1. Cover the driver's seat with an old, clean towel.
    2. Chock the front wheels. Loosen the rear lugs. Raise and support the car on jack stands. Remove the right rear
    wheel. Release the parking brake.
    3. Bleed the RR caliper.
    4. Tighten the bleeder screw to 10Nm / 89lbin. Remove the speed bleeder and move the jug to someplace safe. If you have brake fluid on your hands, rinse it off in the bucket and dry your hands on an old towel.
    5. Remove the two slider bolts. Mine took a 13mm socket. If the bolts stick to the slider, try a 19mm open end wrench to hold the flats on the slider. I wire brushed the sliders and the holes in the bracket until they were shiny, regreased them, and reinstalled the rubber boots. Ensure the boot fits snugly over the slider and over the caliper bracket. The sliders should slide and turn freely in the bracket.
    6. Remove the caliper. You may need to pry up gently on the caliper. Hang the caliper with a bungee cord so that
    it doesn't hang by the hose.
    7. Turn the caliper piston into the caliper with the Rear Wheel Disc Brake Tool and the correct size adapter. The pins on the adapter should firmly engage the triangular notches on the piston. [After 110,000 miles on the brakes, I had to tap the end of jack screw lightly with a hammer to get the tool to turn. The LR caliper actually required a cheater pipe on the handle of the jack screw.] Remove the tool.
    8. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. Mine took a 15mm socket. Ford tells you to discard the bolts. [I'm a violator and a perpetrator. Don't hate.] Remove the bracket. Discard the pads and the hardware. Wire brush the bracket.
    9. Remove the rotor. You may have a thin washer holding the rotor to the hub. If you tap it counter clockwise with a screw driver, it will loosen a little. You need a thin pry bar to keep turning and prying the washer from the rotor. Remove the rotor.
    10. Wire brush the hub. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize where the rotor meets the hub. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Ensuring the rotor stays clean, install the rotor and washer.
    11. Install new hardware in the bracket. Apply a light coat of brake grease to the hardware. Install the bracket and torque the bolts to 103Nm / 76lbft.
    12. Install the pads in the bracket. The wear indicator tab should be inboard, next to the piston. There is some dispute whether the tab goes at the leading edge of the pad or at the trailing edge of the pad. PowerStop never provided an answer. I installed the pads with the tab at the lead edge so that the rotor would drag the tab into contact. If the pad doesn't fit inside the hardware in the bracket, you may need to file the ends of the pad slightly. Don't use a grinder because it's too easy to remove too much material. Ensure the peg on the back of the pad fits into the triangular notch on the piston. You may need to turn the piston to align the notch.
    13. Install the caliper and double check to ensure the peg on the pad fits into the notch on the piston. Torque the slider bolts to 33Nm / 24lbft. You may need to turn the sliders slightly so the flats line up with the caliper. You may need to press down firmly on the caliper to compress the anti-rattle springs.
    a. On the right side, torque the top bolt first, then the bottom
    b. On the left side, torque the bottom bolt first, then the top​
    14. Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts.
    15. Repeat the process on the left side. Remember: different order for torquing the slider bolts.
    16. Remove the jack stands, lower the vehicle. Apply the emergency brake. Torque the lugs to 100lbft. Remove the chocks.
    17. Check the master cylinder and add fresh DOT3 fluid as necessary.
    18. Loosen the front lugs. Chock the rear wheels, raise the front of the car and support it on jack stands. [The front should be higher than you raised the rear because the room up front is more limited.] Remove the front wheels.
    19. Start on the right. Bleed the right caliper. Tighten the bleeder screw to 10Nm / 89lbin. Remove the speed bleeder and move the jug to someplace safe. If you have brake fluid on your hands, rinse it off in the bucket and dry your hands on an old towel.
    20. Remove the slider bolts. They may be 12 or 14mm. Ford tells you to discard those bolts; I just used the ones with my new caliper brackets.
    21. Pry up gently on the caliper, remove it, and hang it with a bungee so that it's not held up by the hose. Place an old pad between the pistons and a large C-clamp. Compress the pistons with the C-clamp. You may have to move the clamp a few times in order to ensure both pistons are fully seated in the caliper. Remove the clamp and old pad.
    22. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. Mine took a 15mm socket. Again, Ford tells you to discard and replace those bolts; again, I was a violator.
    23. Remove the bracket.
    a. if you have a 2011 – 14 GT, remove the hardware, and wire brush the bracket. Wire brush, clean, and re-grease the sliders and the holes in the bracket. Ensure the rubber boot fits snugly over the bracket and the slider. Install new hardware and apply a thin coat of brake grease.
    b. if you have a 2005 – 10 GT, install a 2011 – 14 Mustang GT front caliper bracket.
    c. whatever year Mustang you have, the sliders should slide and turn freely in the bracket.
    d. if your bracket is new, it should have new hardware with a light coat brake grease; if using an old bracket, install new hardware and apply a light coat of brake grease​
    24. Remove the lock washer from the rotor the same way you removed the ones in the rear. Remove the rotor. If you have a torx screw holding your rotor to the hub, remove that and retain the screw.
    25. Wire brush the hub. Apply anti-seize where the hub meets the rotor. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.
    26. Ensuring the rotor stays clean, install the new rotor. The new rotors have a hole for a torx screw. There was no corresponding hole in my 2008 GT's hub. If you have the hole in the hub, install the torx screw. If not, install the lock washer. [I have been told that once the rotor is installed, it balances as part of the hub so that the small hole doesn't matter.]
    27. Install the caliper bracket and torque the bolts to 85lbft.
    Installed, the RF bracket and hardware look like
    28. Install the pads in the bracket. An OEM caliper had the wear indicator tab on the inboard pad at the trailing edge, so I installed the front pads like that.
    29. Install the caliper and torque the slider bolts to 34Nm / 25lbft.
    30. install the wheel and the lug nuts.
    31. Repeat the process on the left side.
    32. Remove the jack stands, lower the vehicle. Torque the lugs to 100lbft. Remove the chocks.
    33. Check the master cylinder and add fresh DOT3 fluid as necessary.
    34. Pump the brakes at least 10 times. Check the master cylinder and add fresh DOT3 fluid as necessary.
    35. Ensure All Tools Accounted For [ATAF]. Don't start or move the car until you are ATAF.
    36. Start the car and test the brakes at very low speed one time.
    37. PowerStop says to bed the pads by slowing 30 times from “30mph to 5mph with the 30 seconds in between each deceleration for cooling.” Then cool the brakes by driving for at least five minutes at moderate speed without using the brakes.
    The RF brakes really fill up the stock 18" wheels.
    The LF brakes look good.
    The PowerStop brakes are clean, quiet, and effective. Less pedal effort is required to slow and stop the car compared to the stock, smaller front rotors on my 2008 Mustang GT.
     
    banzai_bullitt and JJDAG like this.
  2. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    No braided caliper hoses?
     
  3. MasterofDisaster

    MasterofDisaster Junior Member

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    That would be a nice upgrade. I did install them on my Foxbody once, and I was well pleased with them.
     
    banzai_bullitt likes this.
  4. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    IMO, its a "must do" upgrade.
     
    banzai_bullitt and MrAwesome987 like this.
  5. banzai_bullitt

    banzai_bullitt Junior Member

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    I did on my '86 and they are worth it.
     
  6. banzai_bullitt

    banzai_bullitt Junior Member

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    This thread is perfect, because I don't have a manual for the torque specs. I have had the 11-14 brackets and Z26 kit since last fall. This is one of the last mods that I want to do this summer on the B.
     
  7. MasterofDisaster

    MasterofDisaster Junior Member

    42
    13
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