Vibrating brake at 120 mph

[Ken04]

O i read buddy, just dont agree. Is that alright?

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

 

[GrabberblueS197]

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Nice article. So youre saying that even though I can run my finger along the rootor and feel the ridges on the rotor its still not warped and could be fixed simply by taking them apart and cleaning and putting them back together? What happens to the ridges and heat spots on the rotor theyre still gonna be there right? Not criticizing just asking. Cause what I read from the article is that turning them would simply cause the problem to re occur right?

 

[Dreadknought]

O i read buddy, just dont agree. Is that alright?

Difference of opinion is so much better than ignorance so yes that is quite all right!

 

[nuclearmuscle523]

If the vibration is within the steering wheel, then I would agree to say that a slight "unroundness" in the rotor would be contributing. That and the pad buildup. Solve both and add extra visual win by going to slotted rotors. Yay!

 

[GrabberblueS197]

Difference of opinion is so much better than ignorance so yes that is quite all right!

 

[Ken04]

Nice article. So youre saying that even though I can run my finger along the rootor and feel the ridges on the rotor its still not warped and could be fixed simply by taking them apart and cleaning and putting them back together? What happens to the ridges and heat spots on the rotor theyre still gonna be there right? Not criticizing just asking. Cause what I read from the article is that turning them would simply cause the problem to re occur right?

no, I was also addressing ababrego and his problem with the cleaning. I had the same problem but it was from the brake caplipers not moving nothing to do with the rotors.

The 'warpage issue' was in response to someone else, sorry for the confusion.

Technically I guess you could say a rotor does get warped, but it's not from heat or wear. It does come from pad material being built up on the face of the rotor. But as far as the rotor actually warping, it doesn't.

People failing to properly bed their pads in is a boon to machine shops who charge to turn them. They will all need to be turned at some point, but you can go alot longer in between turning them by bedding in your pads. Turning the rotors and not bedding them will make the problem reoccur.

 

[GrabberblueS197]

no, I was also addressing ababrego and his problem with the cleaning. I had the same problem but it was from the brake caplipers not moving nothing to do with the rotors.

The 'warpage issue' was in response to someone else, sorry for the confusion.

Technically I guess you could say a rotor does get warped, but it's not from heat or wear. It does come from pad material being built up on the face of the rotor. But as far as the rotor actually warping, it doesn't.

People failing to properly bed their pads in is a boon to machine shops who charge to turn them. They will all need to be turned at some point, but you can go alot longer in between turning them by bedding in your pads. Turning the rotors and not bedding them will make the problem reoccur.

Gotcha. Nicely done.

 

[s8v4o]

no, I was also addressing ababrego and his problem with the cleaning. I had the same problem but it was from the brake caplipers not moving nothing to do with the rotors.

The 'warpage issue' was in response to someone else, sorry for the confusion.

Technically I guess you could say a rotor does get warped, but it's not from heat or wear. It does come from pad material being built up on the face of the rotor. But as far as the rotor actually warping, it doesn't.

People failing to properly bed their pads in is a boon to machine shops who charge to turn them. They will all need to be turned at some point, but you can go alot longer in between turning them by bedding in your pads. Turning the rotors and not bedding them will make the problem reoccur.

Probably a combination of both, pad wear and warpage. Could be 50/50 90/10, not really sure. Reason being if your car is a daily driver then odds are its been driven in the rain. Take any metal, get it fairly hot and then put some water on it and odds are they will warp some. I've heard nothing but bad things about the stock pads so....... thats why I say it's probably a combination of both. Although NOT S197 rotos but I've seen plenty of rotors on the brake lathe and it was like watching a hula dancer. Again they were not our rotors but when I go to do my brakes we'll find out how much out "out of round" they are if any.

Any pad recommendations for street strip use? I will most likely reuse the stock rotors if they are good. I'll also put them on the lathe for a nice cleanup pass. Followed up with some braided lines. Do you think it's necessary to change the fluid? If so what do you recommend. Thanks.

 

[Ken04]

Probably a combination of both, pad wear and warpage. Could be 50/50 90/10, not really sure. Reason being if your car is a daily driver then odds are its been driven in the rain. Take any metal, get it fairly hot and then put some water on it and odds are they will warp some. I've heard nothing but bad things about the stock pads so....... thats why I say it's probably a combination of both. Although NOT S197 rotos but I've seen plenty of rotors on the brake lathe and it was like watching a hula dancer. Again they were not our rotors but when I go to do my brakes we'll find out how much out "out of round" they are if any.

Any pad recommendations for street strip use? I will most likely reuse the stock rotors if they are good. I'll also put them on the lathe for a nice cleanup pass. Followed up with some braided lines. Do you think it's necessary to change the fluid? If so what do you recommend. Thanks.

changing brake fluid is something we all should do every year or 2. Brake fluid attracts water, water in the brake lines boils, no brakes.

A clean up pass on the rotors is good if they're pulsating, otherwise why make them thinner ?

There's lots of good pads for street and strip use. And just as many opinions on who's is the best. What works really good on the street won't work really good on the track and vice versa so a compromise is all you can hope for unless you have a dedicated set of pads you use for the road course and switch them out before and after track time. I would look and see what others who use their cars as you do are using. EBC, Hawk and others are good.

There are some good racers here, I'd certainly ask them what pads they prefer and why. I have EBC yellow stuff cause I got a deal. But all the major manufacturers have good products IF you use it as intended.