Watts Link Install Questions

[danbev07]

Here is the short version of the Watts Frame...this is the one I am getting, but obviously not Shelby blue... lol
I got this picture from the Shelby website. But its the same since Fays is who makes it for Shelby.

The shorter style frame only has 3 adjustment holes instead of the 6 or so on the regular frame. Seeing how Shelby only offers the short style, maybe there is a reason for it.

Don't the Shelby's come from the factory already lowered? Maybe that's why they didn't need the extra adjustment holes. I like that blue though!

Question for everyone that's installed one of these... How long did it take you to get the frame in place? I swear I spent a good two hours trying to get it in there. It probably would have paid off to have a lift for better leverage... lol

 

[danbev07]

Maybe you can try dropping off the end links and raising the rear-end to ride height, then reattaching and checking the clearance?

I recall reading, not exactly sure where though, about a similar issue and apparently Jim at Fays2 said it was no big deal. I'll try to find that info if I can...

 

[AutoXRacer]

Interesting, I'll try that tonight!! Thanks!!!

 

[danbev07]

Here's one instance of someone having a similar issue to yours (read post #7)

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79002&highlight=fays2

 

[Whiskey11]

Don't the Shelby's come from the factory already lowered? Maybe that's why they didn't need the extra adjustment holes. I like that blue though!

Question for everyone that's installed one of these... How long did it take you to get the frame in place? I swear I spent a good two hours trying to get it in there. It probably would have paid off to have a lift for better leverage... lol

It was probably about ten minutes of fussing to get the passenger side in. I found it was easier to get it in and out (now that I have had the frame on mine off a few times in my tinkering) to slide the passenger side in from the side of the PHB mount location rather than trying to force it through the bottom. I did mine on jackstands as well and I really think Jim intended the unit to be installed on a lift. Its not impossible on jackstands, it just isn't as easy to adjust everything as it takes a lot of lowering and raising again and lowering again to get all of the arms in place and at the correct angles.

As for the swaybar issue, you might see if Jim will swap you to the shelby frame or you could replace the swaybar with one that follows the factory routing or doesn't have the bend in it all (see Sam's rear bar). Gotta love convertibles ruining our swaybar routing such that it interferes with other parts!

 

[Sky Render]

Yes, the Fays2 Watts Link frame will contact the sway bars at full droop. THAT IS WHY IT MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE SUSPENSION LOADED.

 

[Sam Strano]

No, that's not why it has to be setup with the suspension loaded.. you could just take the rear bar off while installing the Watts link if that was the issue. The suspension has to be loaded to get all the arm angles correct so there is no binding and such when you drive the car.

And yes, some rear bars interfere with the Watts link frame. One big reason the Strano rear bars don't have that bend in it is so that you get maximum clearance for the frame. Even still at full droop at full stiff is touches. But that is not something you will happen on the road at any time.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Thank you for the reply Sam. Would there be a benefit in keeping the full 7 hole watts frame and getting a new rear bar vs getting the short frame with 3 holes and keeping my current bar?

I'm not a dedicated race car, just participate in autocrosses, track days, and drag race for fun; rwhp will be in the 675-700rwhp though.

 

[Sky Render]

No, that's not why it has to be setup with the suspension loaded.. you could just take the rear bar off while installing the Watts link if that was the issue. The suspension has to be loaded to get all the arm angles correct so there is no binding and such when you drive the car.

Well, yeah. My point was that if the bar is touching, the suspension isn't loaded, and odds are the angles on the bars won't be right.

 

[JAJ]

Do you have the answers you need or not? It's not clear.

Anyway, the factory bar hits the back of the regular Fays2 frame at slightly above full droop. Jim Fay says "just let it hang there that way - it won't hit when you're driving". And he's right, it doesn't hit, at least mine never did.

If your Roush bar is the same shape as the factory bar, then install it last with the rear axle raised a few inches after the springs and Fays2 are done.

I bought the Shelby rear frame from Jim last year, and mine doesn't hit any more.

 

[AutoXRacer]

My rear sway is not factory shape. It bends into the watts frame.

 

[hunterwiley]

Just installed my fays watts link, the eibach rear bar will hit under droop. Raise the rear to ride height and it clears just a bit. I've got a 18mm FRPP bar on order, not because the larger bar hits - I think the 22mm bar will be too stiff for me. My car is a race car, and it'll be sprung pretty stiff in the rear - I'm guessing I'll probably end up with no rear bar once it hits the track.

 

[AutoXRacer]

OK, so I played around with it a little more... If you raise the rear-end until the bump stops hit the frame (I currently don't have springs nor shocks installed), the sway bar clears... Not sure where ride height is, but there comes a point when lowering the rear-end that the sway bar impacts the watts frame. There is roughly 1" clearance needed to clear the watts frame.

As the rear-end drops, the sway bars arcs toward the watts link until it hits the edge of the square tubing. All thats needed is approx 1" clearance... sigh

I'm going to stick with the short watts frame and call it a day...that'll work. I don't like when things bind.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Perhaps starting with a slightly stiffer bar and "softening" it by extending the arms . . .


Norm