Weight

OX1

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ATCO scale said 3620 last time their scale was working (when I went 11.23 @ 125). Did add Brembos, X pipe, and open air cleaner (which uses metal Roush cold air intake ducting), but also did lightweight battery. Was some minor stuff in car and I usually pull trunk carpet and stuff out at track (always have spare and jack out, even on street).

Anyway, what does Ford stuff in that left front corner, it wasn't me, that is with no one in the car. I borrowed these from a buddy, front weights seem crazy different.

20210706_055646.jpg
 

LarryJM

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My 2014 said 3460 Flying J Cat Scales. I do have the ticket someplace. That's with 1/4 tank of gas.
 

mpm_1

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OX1 do you have height adjustable front coilovers to tweak corner weight? (but this does seem like a lot to adjust for??)
 
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OX1

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OX1 do you have height adjustable front coilovers to tweak corner weight? (but this does seem like a lot to adjust for??)

Nope, only susp mods are sway bars and rear upper/lower arms. I'm almost inclined to switch front scales from left to right, see if anything changes. Maybe one of the load cells is on it's way out, but scale zero's out fine.
 

mustanger

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Could be combination of error in the scale, and the surface not being as level as it should be. I also wonder if the engine is offset to the drivers side? Seems like last I remember there seemed to be less room to access the headers on that side. But maybe I'm getting that confused with the space the steering shaft takes up.
 

Pentalab

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Could be combination of error in the scale, and the surface not being as level as it should be. I also wonder if the engine is offset to the drivers side? Seems like last I remember there seemed to be less room to access the headers on that side. But maybe I'm getting that confused with the space the steering shaft takes up.

That's a 138 lb difference. IF the surface is not 100% dead flat, and / or the scale calibration is outa whack, that could easily account for the 138 lbs.
 

OX1

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I was going to post it up on trackmustangsonline and see what they had to say, plenty HPDE/racing S197's on there. Maybe Norm knows.
 

Mach2burnout

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Have you ever baselined the car before?

If so, what have you changed?

Do you have a pro charger hanging off the left front of the engine?

How much lighter was the battery that you swapped in?

You added Brembos, so that’s approx. 40lbs added, they are heavy compared to stock.

How much fuel was in the car when BL’d compared to this scaling? Always try to scale with the same amount of fuel. Make that amount the amount you plan to race.

So, your front to rear % look pretty normal for a street car with not much suspension work done. Left front is always a little heavy.
Front 56.2%
Rear 43.8%
Cross LF - RR 52%
Cross LR - RF 48%

You can change cross weight %s by adjusting suspension, you cannot change front to back %s by adjusting suspension!

Cross weights are 4% different, I’d try to close that up by up to 2%.
I’d try to lose front weight or move some to the rear. I’d like to see 46-47% rear or higher. But, to get higher than that your gonna start cutting and moving a lot!

Remember this, if you remove 15 lbs from the right front you won’t necessarily see a 15 lb reduction on the front of the car, unless it is in front of the front axle. And it may change the difference between the left and right by more than 15lbs. Any time you remove or move weight you have to adjust all 4 corners to get the %s back to optimum, once you find where the car is comfortable and fast for you.

Keep records of every change!


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AHaze

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Remove one sway bar link on each axle and try it again. If that changes the cross weight numbers then your surface isn't flat.
 

Mach2burnout

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Remove one sway bar link on each axle and try it again. If that changes the cross weight numbers then your surface isn't flat.

Or your end links aren’t properly adjusted.

Come to think about it, aren’t you supposed to disconnect them prier to scaling anyway?


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AHaze

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Or your end links aren’t properly adjusted.

Come to think about it, aren’t you supposed to disconnect them prier to scaling anyway?

I didn't even think about adjustable end links but yeah, if one front end link was longer than the other for whatever reason you could see some weirdness on the scales.
I'm not sure if disconnecting them is standard procedure. Maybe one of the more serious track junkies can answer that.
 

Norm Peterson

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Adjustable endlinks are best used when you're cornerweighting a car with coilovers for road course purposes - such as balancing the right vs left turn feel or performance. You'd disconnect them while you balance the wheel loads by working with the lower spring seat heights, then adjust the endlinks for zero preload and re-install them.

For street duty, you'd want to get your car set up on the most flat and level place you can find before adjusting either or both endlinks. Sometimes, the amount of lowering may call for shorter endlink lengths than OE. Same thing applies as far as not introducing any sta-bar preload.


Norm
 

Mach2burnout

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Adjustable endlinks are best used when you're cornerweighting a car with coilovers for road course purposes - such as balancing the right vs left turn feel or performance. You'd disconnect them while you balance the wheel loads by working with the lower spring seat heights, then adjust the endlinks for zero preload and re-install them.

For street duty, you'd want to get your car set up on the most flat and level place you can find before adjusting either or both endlinks. Sometimes, the amount of lowering may call for shorter endlink lengths than OE. Same thing applies as far as not introducing any sta-bar preload.


Norm

Well said Norm.


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OX1

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Have you ever baselined the car before?

If so, what have you changed?

Do you have a pro charger hanging off the left front of the engine?

How much lighter was the battery that you swapped in?

You added Brembos, so that’s approx. 40lbs added, they are heavy compared to stock.

How much fuel was in the car when BL’d compared to this scaling? Always try to scale with the same amount of fuel. Make that amount the amount you plan to race.

So, your front to rear % look pretty normal for a street car with not much suspension work done. Left front is always a little heavy.
Front 56.2%
Rear 43.8%
Cross LF - RR 52%
Cross LR - RF 48%

You can change cross weight %s by adjusting suspension, you cannot change front to back %s by adjusting suspension!

Cross weights are 4% different, I’d try to close that up by up to 2%.
I’d try to lose front weight or move some to the rear. I’d like to see 46-47% rear or higher. But, to get higher than that your gonna start cutting and moving a lot!

Remember this, if you remove 15 lbs from the right front you won’t necessarily see a 15 lb reduction on the front of the car, unless it is in front of the front axle. And it may change the difference between the left and right by more than 15lbs. Any time you remove or move weight you have to adjust all 4 corners to get the %s back to optimum, once you find where the car is comfortable and fast for you.

Keep records of every change!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First time I've ever had scales. Weighed it at the track before and after blower. Was right around 3520 before, 3620 after (and a bit of weight savings also when blower went in). Full tank, which I had totally forgot about. I usually go to the track with 3/8's ish. Not my scales, so not sure how often I will get to use them.

Surface is dead nuts level. I went over the top to do so on this 4 post, as I use it for alignments (bought an older Hunter alignment system a couple years back). One thing I did wonder is if the diamond plate affects the scales at all and also if an independent suspension pushing the scale sideways affects it. I have alignment turntables in front and plates that slide sideways I use for 4 wheel indp. rigs during alignments, which I had on both ends (on top of scales), during Stang weighting.

20170318_115841a.jpg


Adjustable endlinks are best used when you're cornerweighting a car with coilovers for road course purposes - such as balancing the right vs left turn feel or performance. You'd disconnect them while you balance the wheel loads by working with the lower spring seat heights, then adjust the endlinks for zero preload and re-install them.

For street duty, you'd want to get your car set up on the most flat and level place you can find before adjusting either or both endlinks. Sometimes, the amount of lowering may call for shorter endlink lengths than OE. Same thing applies as far as not introducing any sta-bar preload.


Norm

Interesting thought guys, on the end links. I do have Whitelines and the adjustable endlinks they come with on both ends. I could disconnect one on either, see what happens.
 

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