Who makes GOOD cold air intakes???

RRRoamer

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<snip> and C&L looks like GMS but requires the extra clamps and sleeve.

Given that the C&L was pretty much the first CAI out for the s197 and GMS came out WAY after that, I think it is much safer to say the "GMS looks like the C&L" than the other way around.

The way you said it, it implies that the C&L is a copy of the GMS. I know JR claims they did not copy the C&L, but you KNOW they had looked at all the current CAI (including the C&L) before designing/building theirs.

Now to wait for JR to show up and claim that I am taking everything he said out of context or just making things up about him...
 

1Fast05Turbo

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LOLOL...07GTMAN started this thread and haven't posted again. :roflmao:

Ok...the intermission is over, please continue....:jerry:
 

Herknav

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Given that the C&L was pretty much the first CAI out for the s197 and GMS came out WAY after that, I think it is much safer to say the "GMS looks like the C&L" than the other way around.

The way you said it, it implies that the C&L is a copy of the GMS. I know JR claims they did not copy the C&L, but you KNOW they had looked at all the current CAI (including the C&L) before designing/building theirs.

Now to wait for JR to show up and claim that I am taking everything he said out of context or just making things up about him...

Thank you.

I didn't want to make that point myself, as it would look like I had an agenda.

The difference between the C+L and the GMS is the finish... the C+L is crinkled... and the GMS is not. Which one has more surface area? I will wait for your answer...
 
8

88_Stanga

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by who bud

i put down those numbers up at Petes and then drove down to CT to Bristol Dyno. I will be up at pro tree this weekend (saturday morning) with my boss and one of my buddies. putting my car on the dyno and they are dynoing their srt8's
 
J

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Given that the C&L was pretty much the first CAI out for the s197 and GMS came out WAY after that, I think it is much safer to say the "GMS looks like the C&L" than the other way around.

The way you said it, it implies that the C&L is a copy of the GMS. I know JR claims they did not copy the C&L, but you KNOW they had looked at all the current CAI (including the C&L) before designing/building theirs.

Now to wait for JR to show up and claim that I am taking everything he said out of context or just making things up about him...

why all the focus and BS on who did what to whom first? It seems to me that BBK and GMS have the one piece design so it gets rid of the extra ugly sleeve and clamp.

I guess Tylenol is pissed at Buffrin. So Asprin is even more pissed. I wonder who copied who first Ibuprophin or codien etc.

So Vortech copied Paxton, Procharger copied them both - slide powerdyne in there someplace. Whipple copied KD - Saleen copied them both? Eaton made it first or wait was that B&M, I mean wieand, no GMS, BDS - shit who copied who - someone copied someone - those bastards:shock:
 

firestang70

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On topic. I have the Tunable Induction CAI. I have Modular Depot local, that does my dyno tuning. I have enjoed the CAI and worked well. On an 87 tune with no other mods put down 289 rwhp. I think all the nice CAIs (TI,JLT,C&L etc) will be a good move. A tuner and custom tune is the way to go. No CELs to deal with. Good luck.
 

Herknav

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The real answer with a CAI is this:

They are pretty much all the same, as long as you have a decent tune. If you get a dyno-tune, you are in even better shape. If you use a CAI without a tune, you will be behind those who have a tune.
 
J

JAFO

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The real answer with a CAI is this:

They are pretty much all the same, as long as you have a decent tune. If you get a dyno-tune, you are in even better shape. If you use a CAI without a tune, you will be behind those who have a tune.

I agree with that statement. A custom tune specific to your car is always better. And if you feel that a $200 to $300 CAI coupled with a $300 to $600 tune all for the sake of making a 29hp increase is a better investment then a CAI that makes say 25hp increase for $350 then go for it.

Again, I am with you but it is all dollars and cents...
 

PenguinGT

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Here's a related question (sort of): My local dyno tune guy is about 30 miles from my house. I have a new JLT sitting in a box in my garage.

Can I install the JLT CAI and drive it safely to my tuner w/o the use of any programming? I know it may create a lean condition, but I'm only transporting it 30 miles under normal driving conditions.
 

Herknav

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It only takes a few minutes to put one of those on, why not wait till you get there?
 

SixtySix

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Yup, and besides the JLT II MAF housing is big enough that there's a good possibility it won't even run without a tune. Just do it at the shop for sure :thumb:
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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with a $300 to $600 tune

Tunes ain't that expensive. Probably about an hour on the dyno would set you back $150 at most, and with the right tuner, it is a helluva lot safer than anything you can buy. Just my :2cents:.

Mike
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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Here's a related question (sort of): My local dyno tune guy is about 30 miles from my house. I have a new JLT sitting in a box in my garage.

Can I install the JLT CAI and drive it safely to my tuner w/o the use of any programming? I know it may create a lean condition, but I'm only transporting it 30 miles under normal driving conditions.


It won't run. The MAF signal will be so fucked up it will not know what to do and it will just flat not run, idle, or anything. Trust me when I say those MAFs are sensitive!

Take it to where you want to have it tuned, and then install the CAI and let'em tune it.

I had a K&N on mine and put on a Steeda, which has a considerably larger opening than the K&N to see what it would do. It wouldn't even idle! The larger opening slowed down the airflow so the MAF reads incorrectly, and did it ever let me know it was running incorrectly (dashboard lit up like a damn pinball machine! TILT!!!)

Hope this helps.

Mike
 

Herknav

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Didn't I say that, without all the technical stuff? :p
 

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