Winter builds for 2014/2015

The01Cav

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So what are everyones plans for their winter builds? I am planning some exterior mods, longtubes, new exhaust, 8.8 with 4.10 gears and some other goodies.
 

Redline727

"I wanna go fast!"
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Hoping to get a DSS driveshaft. Waiting to see if someone puts one on their black Friday or cyber Monday special first. Or a CJ intake manifold if anyone has those at crazy deal for bf or cm.
 
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corey5988

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So what are everyones plans for their winter builds? I am planning some exterior mods, longtubes, new exhaust, 8.8 with 4.10 gears and some other goodies.

All my car work is going to be taken place in fall (though not much). I've just got some slicks and LCA brackets on the way.

My real project will hopefully be getting started on my drag truck. Will hopefully have the box frame made and into roller form.
 

lindertw

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- install poly diff bushing
- install raptor shift light
- purchase/install double adj rear shocks (undecided strange or viking)
 

dysan

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Since my car is now going to be drag race only and come off the street it is weight savings time. Hoping to do a fuel cell, pin on hood, remove the evap system, remove the back half of the exhaust, remove the heater core, blower fan, etc from behind the dash.

Also going to do some inspection and maintenance on the engine...pull the oil pan and look at 2 or 3 main caps to check for any crank walk....replace the timing chain guides and tensioner arms and possibly the lash adjusters and cam followers.
 

Department Of Boost

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-New updated hiem joint rear control arms
-Replace third link diff bushing with a spherical bearing
-Install diffuser
-Convert intercooler system from 3/4 lines to 1 1/4 (this is a huge project)
-New updated 1200hp e85 fuel system
-Bigger cams
-Powedercoat/paint/anodize EVERYTHING!
-Trim out interior
-Fabricate new crankcase breather box/system
-Fix leaking PS pump
-Re-make front splitter
-Tiger Racing hood
-Replace all of the factory TTY suspension hardware with good 12.9 stuff
-Half a wire tuck

......that's all I can think of off the top of my head. There are about a million other little things, sigh.
 

cbass

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Dust it
Lick it
Dust it
Lick it

Repeat

FTFY. Could also go for your yankee chick, you know, the CWB. Cousin with benefits.

I really want to figure out how to get my rear fitment to work up front. Then disregard it completely and buy some big'n'littles.
 

eighty6gt

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Depends on how my finances are looking after buying a house. Possession in December. I won't really start work until the weather starts to break in Feb/March.

- Fix some paint chips, finish polishing entire car
- Buy pistons, machine block, assemble with Boss rods and freshened heads (new springs, valve job.)

Other misc stuff: fresh clutch, off road H, VMP 1.9 with 69mm pulley, tune for 94 octane, custom made blowfish bracket, auxiliary fuel tank, 2013 GT500 intercooler pump...

I'm going to try to polish the headlights as they are 6 years old and pitted. Might not work, might get new halogen housings from Tasca. Misc other "restoration" parts will go on the same order to keep the car looking fresh.

I need to see if one or more of my OEM wheels are bent. If so, either get that fixed or get some different ones.

Fencing in the stock heat exchanger, if IAT's are higher than they are now I'll get a no-fan AFCO or something.

Should all be done by May/June, which is the end of winter here. :\
 
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dysan

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Serious question. Is it a bar or a cage at 6pt? 4pt is obviously a bar. 8pt/10pt is a cage. What is a 6pt?

For drag racing purposes a 6 point is the minimum which is for 11.50 to 10.00 range and that's considered a bar. Mine is actually an 8-point bar because it has two kickdown bard behind the front seats towards the trans tunnel but that's still only good to 10.00.

There are a few different roll cages, 8/10 point for 9.99-8.50, then you get into the 25.5 cert cage which is good to 7.50 and then the 25.2 cage which is 6.00-7.49. Apparently after looking on Wolfe Race Craft's site there are weight limits for the car for the 25.2 cage to be legal....max weight of 3,200 lbs which I suspect is car and driver together but I don't know for sure.
 

Department Of Boost

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For drag racing purposes a 6 point is the minimum which is for 11.50 to 10.00 range and that's considered a bar. Mine is actually an 8-point bar because it has two kickdown bard behind the front seats towards the trans tunnel but that's still only good to 10.00.

There are a few different roll cages, 8/10 point for 9.99-8.50, then you get into the 25.5 cert cage which is good to 7.50 and then the 25.2 cage which is 6.00-7.49. Apparently after looking on Wolfe Race Craft's site there are weight limits for the car for the 25.2 cage to be legal....max weight of 3,200 lbs which I suspect is car and driver together but I don't know for sure.

Good man, I was looking for a nomenclature reference. Sounds to me like it's a "bar" until you have a halo and A pillar bars, then it's a "cage"? That would make sense to me.
 

weather man

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Serious question. Is it a bar or a cage at 6pt? 4pt is obviously a bar. 8pt/10pt is a cage. What is a 6pt?

6 point roll bar. It does not need a cert. 8 point needs cert, if going fast enough.
 

Department Of Boost

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mine may be leaking, what's involved with fixing this?

I haven't even looked at it really. I just noticed there may be some fluid coming from somewhere. It looks like crap all rusted up anyway and new ones are $40. I figured buy a new one, paint it it nice, check all of the high pressure hoses and put that sucker in there.
 

Mineral_'01

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For me the list is as follows:

-Install Ground Control Coilover kit
-Install front and rear Strano anti-roll bars
-Install adjustable endlinks front
-Install J&M extreme rear lower control arms
-Install B&M lower control arm brackets
-Install B&M upper control arm (modify chassis side poly bushing with a rubber bushing)
-Install AMR 18x10 wheels all around (wrap in some variant of 285/40R18 or 275/40R18)
-Set ride height and determine if I want to install extended ball joints to go lower (already purchased)
-Perform DIY style alignment with digital dual axis inclinometer and string toe method
-DIY corner/cross balance with scales at my company
-Play with damper and anti-roll bar settings
-Do all this in about 1 month when I am home on leave (really do it all in one day while I have access to company and shop equipment)

Should be fun!
 
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TGR96

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I wouldn't really call it a build, but I do have a few parts to be installed:

- BNIB Barton two post shifter bracket that I got off of BMO for less than half the price of new('cause I'm too cheap to spend to $$$ on the Blowfish one LOL)

- Some Stifflers weld in subframe connectors

- Steeda strut mounts

- Steeda X1 ball joints and bump steer kit

- New BFG Sport Comp 2s
 

rcm90

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Install:
Racecraft UCA w/race mount
Viking d/a struts and shocks on all fours(they are releasing struts during SEMA)
Have the hotside sent to swain tech
Install box of fail
Converter
Gears and 9" ends if I find a lineup bar local
Tie up the fuel system
Weld up water tank for the I/c

Hoping to make molds of parts to lay carbon fiber and if finances allow, build the motor(snowballs chance in hell)
 

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