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A few summers back I had a bolt shear off of one of my plastic tensioners. The chain wore the timing cover a bit and it sounded bad. Replaced them with metal ones.. Currently have another failure I gotta dig into.
What are your symptoms? How do you know your phasers are going bad?
A phaser failure can be catastrophic. It's hit or miss.
If you're overhauling your timing, you might as well do your water pump. I don't see a need for COPS or injectors unless they are bad.
I think you mean the oil pump. If you meant the oil pump, I agree with you...
Thanks guys. I am going to get the entire FRPP timing kit if it comes to that. My symptoms are a misfire/miss at idle and cruising rpm with a slight burble/backfire sound. I've listened to a few of the bad phaser you tube videos and my noise isn't nearly as loud so at this point I'm trouble shooting. Plugs were replaced with motorcraft SP514s about a month ago. Next on my list is pulling plugs to inspect and after that unplugging one COP at a time and go from there. I've have a slight rattleing sound at low RPM half throttle acceleration. I cant hear anything at idle when under the hood and had a friend hold it at 3k while I listened under the hood. Couldn't trace or hear the sound. WOT seems fine with no miss detected and no sound but I got boomtubes so mostly all I hear is exhaust, lol.
My car is high mileage so I'm anticipating every little thing going wrong, kinda paranoid about it and I don't even use the radio anymore because I'm always listening for the next issue, lol. Ever since I blew the sycro's in my transmission 3 months ago I'm waiting for the next thing to go wrong.
Thanks again....
Tensioners can get re collapsed and set up, integral gaskets/seals good for multiple uses? This is good information.
I just use the same stuff (tensioners, chains, phasers...) over and over. The only problem I ever had was using the *steel* tensioners from pre-SN197's. Over the course of two years, I ended up having each side rail broken at least once. Made an awful racket, but didn't jump a tooth (or two) and trash the valve train.
Switched back over to the plastic SN197 style tensioners and haven't had a rail break once, and I beat the hell out of my engine while running 16psi through my daily driver, and can jump to 19 with the press of a button, and 21 with the press of a button and some TORCO.
This is the reason Ford redesigned them without the ratcheting mechanism.
It's pretty easy to change/reinspect the 3v tensioners anytime they are taken off. If the seal does go bad (it will only happen during removal unless they weren't intsalled correctly to begin with, they don't blow out), there is enough spring tension built into them to keep tension on the guides.
However, when the steel, ratcheting tensioners lock open the result is broken guides and damage. Of course this brings rise to more cottage industries offering billet chain guides, lol. Ranks right up there with "cooling mods" imo.
In the end do what you feel is right. It's your hard earned money. All we can do is share experiences.
Ya'll are starting to worry me. I've been running the steel tensioners now for about 25,000 miles. When do they go bad ?