cam phaser question

[AutoXRacer]

I got the plates from Steve at TASCA...a lot cheaper than what you guys paid!!

 

[Wild White Pony]

I got the plates from Steve at TASCA...a lot cheaper than what you guys paid!!

Is that Steve who use to work at tousley? I know he left but don't know where he ended up.

 

[skwerl]

Is that Steve who use to work at tousley? I know he left but don't know where he ended up.

He ended up right here on the forum. Steve@Tasca is his user name and he's a forum sponsor.

 

[Wild White Pony]

He ended up right here on the forum. Steve@Tasca is his user name and he's a forum sponsor.

Great! I always enjoyed Steve's service as I've bought lots of parts from him when he was at Tousley, including a couple Aluminator motors.

 

[michael.konor]

+1

I've just had the same thing happen to me and ended up with a broken right side chain guide using the iron tensioner. Needless to say, I'm using the plastic tensioner when I reassemble.

Well, I was wrong.

I figured another broken R chain guide when I pulled the valve cover and saw all the slack. Nope. Disassembled the car (DAMN I hate front mounted turbo's for the disassembly PITA...) and found that it wasn't the chain guide, it was the IRON tensioner that failed.

The ratcheting part no longer locked it and I could press it in and out with my fingers with little effort. Reassembled with plastic tensioners, as well as installing the V10 VCT deletes. (Note: the thread that's going on now with the NAPA freeze plugs to fill the holes are 2005-2006 valve covers... To big to fill my 2008's...)

Got car back together and the slapping noise is gone.

Question: Anyone else had an iron tensioner fail?

 

[crownaviation]

I don't have mine apart yet but.... loud as shit till warm. Once warm completely normal. Put about 100 miles on it testing the trans. My bet is the steel tensioner is malfunctioning. Ordering some Monday and going full retard while I have it apart

 

[AutoXRacer]

Reassembled with plastic tensioners, as well as installing the V10 VCT deletes. (Note: the thread that's going on now with the NAPA freeze plugs to fill the holes are 2005-2006 valve covers... To big to fill my 2008's...)

What did you use to seal your valve cover?
Any words for those planning to do this?

 

[lito]

I don't have mine apart yet but.... loud as shit till warm. Once warm completely normal. Put about 100 miles on it testing the trans. My bet is the steel tensioner is malfunctioning. Ordering some Monday and going full retard while I have it apart

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[crownaviation]

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Lol.. You only say that cause you know I am going to ask you to tune it!

 

[crownaviation]

Also... michael.. did yours ever get quiet or did it totally fail? Mine will ratchet up after about 10 minutes of idle.

I am wondering if this contributed to a data log I had way back that showed variations bank to bank?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

So 8 degrees of retard ideally?

 

[michael.konor]

What did you use to seal your valve cover?
Any words for those planning to do this?

Since I was in a bind on time, I reversed the NAPA caps it and used epoxy to seal them to the covers after cleaning the surfaces. It's ugly as hell with these two big bug-eyed caps on top, but it'll work for now.

 

[michael.konor]

Also... michael.. did yours ever get quiet or did it totally fail? Mine will ratchet up after about 10 minutes of idle.

I am wondering if this contributed to a data log I had way back that showed variations bank to bank?

Mine started out semi-quiet where you could hear something wasn't right, but as the oil warmed up, it got worse and worse. At temperature, it was loud enough to hear from 30 feet away.

Luckily, there was no damage to the timing cover.

 

[lito]

So 8 degrees of retard ideally?

It was 3am, that just reminded me of the meme, that is it. 8 may be a too high of a compromise. 550s work great at 6. In your case with the 450s I would do 4 degrees, your SC keeps moving air up top so it already made some nice peak in the higher rpm area as it was (zero VCT).

 

[AutoXRacer]

So has anyone recently done this to their 2008 or later valve covers?

Just looking for some feedback.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I ordered the freeze plugs, but they are too large for my FRPP valve covers.

I popped out the VCT solenoid seal and measured its diameter and it came out to:
36mm or 1.41"

Back to the drawing board. sigh

 

[michael.konor]

Had same problem and I used them as caps instead of inserts.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Had same problem and I used them as caps instead of inserts.

Caps?? So you just placed them on top of the hole?
How is it being held in place?

Got pictures?

I was able to find new plugs in 36.3mm and 36.5mm.
I will see how these work. I am hoping the 36.3mm work with a slight press fit. I am planning to hopefully press it in with some RTV to have it seal perfectly.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

My engine builder actually advised against the steel tensioners. He said in his experience they're more prone to failures and can actually cause the knock sensors to ping.

Makes sense if you think about it. The hard steel will transfer a lot more force than a softer plastic.

I've always wondered why no one has come up with a manual tensioner. I had them on all three of my motorcycles and never had an issue.

 

[michael.konor]

Caps?? So you just placed them on top of the hole?
How is it being held in place?

Got pictures?

I was able to find new plugs in 36.3mm and 36.5mm.
I will see how these work. I am hoping the 36.3mm work with a slight press fit. I am planning to hopefully press it in with some RTV to have it seal perfectly.

I used JB Quik Weld on both mating surfaces, pressed them together, applied tape across the cap, and then turned the valve cover upside down to prevent any dripping on the inside and outside.

If you're using the regular JB weld, let them sit overnight.