Car won't hook/ slick question

2005Redfire6

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Hey guys, I have made approximately 15 passes in my car and due to traction issues/shifting issues (shifting issues are fixed) my PB is a 13.07. With the mods/weight of the car I should be low low in the 12s. I have experimented with tire PSI as low as 12-16 psi., I have also experimented with different shock settings suggested by some guys on here in other threads. Here are some details on the car:

- 2005 w/ approx. 350+ whp
- 5 speed
- Weighs 3130 w/o driver

Current setup:

BMR LCA
BMR Relocation brackets (LCAs are in the 2nd hole from the bottom)
BMR Adjustable UCA
BMR Adjustable PHB
BMR PHB Support
Strange 10 way F/R Shocks
Stock V6 springs
MT ET Streets 275/60/15
4.10 gears
No rear or front sway bar

The car has more mods obviously, just thought those were the only real important ones.

I have launched the car as low as 3700 or so and it just blows the tires off launching off the 2-step. I am thinking about going to a slick and I am trying to determine if I should go with a 26" or 28" tall tire. Currently I am shifting around 6800-6900 and the car is hitting the 7000 limiter right around the 1300 ft mark. in 3rd gear. Would it be wise to go to a 26" tire? Which slick would you guys suggest? Let me know if you have any more questions.

Edit: my fastest 60' is a mid 1.8 or so will have to check to verify. I have a line lock and feel as if I am doing a sufficient burnout.
 
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stkjock

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How specifically are you doing the burnout?

28" tire and 4.10 gear is a good combo.
 

stkjock

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Video doesn't help

what gear?
What MPH?
 

stkjock

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Well that's correct if u r seeing 60 mph

Slick is easier for a clutch car. 28" MT ET Drag is a good tire
 

JUSTA3V

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How well Is the track prepped. If it's not it won't matter much what you do.


I'm fighting my combo trying to find a 1.5 sixty foot as well.
 

2005Redfire6

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How well Is the track prepped. If it's not it won't matter much what you do.


I'm fighting my combo trying to find a 1.5 sixty foot as well.


It didn't really hook at Atlanta dragway which is considered good, the track where I have made about 10 of those passes wasn't great.
 

AlbertD

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You will have a better launch with an ET Drag as Dave mentioned. Bias ply are a lot more consistent and forgiving on stick cars.

With 4.10s and 350hp I would go with a 26". I used to run that exact combo on my N/A 3V and saw low 1.7s.

Upgraded to 4.56s and a 28" and went low 1.5s no other changes.
 

2005Redfire6

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You will have a better launch with an ET Drag as Dave mentioned. Bias ply are a lot more consistent and forgiving on stick cars.

With 4.10s and 350hp I would go with a 26". I used to run that exact combo on my N/A 3V and saw low 1.7s.

Upgraded to 4.56s and a 28" and went low 1.5s no other changes.


I have actually considered a 28" because I think I may go that route here eventually. I will be N/A for a while, the motor swap broke my bank.
 

AlbertD

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If that is the case go for the 28" now. It will still do decent with the 4.10s, just not optimal.

The 4.56s will do wonders for an all motor 3v at the track.
 

2005Redfire6

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If that is the case go for the 28" now. It will still do decent with the 4.10s, just not optimal.

The 4.56s will do wonders for an all motor 3v at the track.

Do you recall what RPM you were going through the traps with 4.56/28" tires? Assuming it was a 5-speed I am sure it would be the power band in 4th.
 

JUSTA3V

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I'm on 28" slicks with 4.10 and have trapped 132 mph around 6400~ With a t56 magnum XL in fourth gear. (1:1 )
 

AlbertD

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Do you recall what RPM you were going through the traps with 4.56/28" tires? Assuming it was a 5-speed I am sure it would be the power band in 4th.

I don't remember the exact RPM, but I was definitely high in the rpm range in 4th.

I normally shifted at 6.8k-7k.
 

07graygt

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Put your rear sway bar back in. The weight you are saving is not worth not having one. I did the same thing and now the sway bar is back in.
 

2005Redfire6

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Put your rear sway bar back in. The weight you are saving is not worth not having one. I did the same thing and now the sway bar is back in.

My car never had one, it was a base V6. I figured it would help keep the axle level although that's not what it is designed for.
 

Sactown

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I am running the MT bias ply slick with a tube 28x10.5x15. That tire should work great with your 4.10's and the stick shift.

1.3x 60fts launching with 9psi of boost at 4000rpm, car dead hooks
 

2005Redfire6

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I am running the MT bias ply slick with a tube 28x10.5x15. That tire should work great with your 4.10's and the stick shift.

1.3x 60fts launching with 9psi of boost at 4000rpm, car dead hooks

That was another question I had, is the tube necessary?
 

Marble

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That was another question I had, is the tube necessary?

No. However...

MT says tubes are required on their website. But they are not. If you call them they will tell you such. A lot of guys do not use tubes and they race fine. But they will loose air. And with some tires they will add stability.

It also depends on your power level and how well your car hooks. I just put slicks and tubes in my welds. Hook great and look good. But because i 60' decently good I now need to screw the wheels you the tires.
 

skaarlaj

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I used to run bias ply Hoosier slicks on a heavy lightning with no tubes and it wasn't bad at all. I marked the slick and rim, and maybe moved 2 inches in two seasons, maybe 40 passes. I must've lucked out as I never lost any air either. I'd say in a lighter Mustang, you'd be just fine, as that heavy lightning with 15 psi of air was nearly as stable as anything else I've ever driven on a track. With the slicks on 150 shot I'd get into the 1.7's with that 4700lb beast, hahaha!
 
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