Car won't hook/ slick question

[Sactown]

That was another question I had, is the tube necessary?

No, but the tires will hold air better than without tubes, and like Marble said, it also added a little stability.

 

[obsrt86]

Is the car running properly? Who's your tuner? Do you have any time slips?

Even with a 1.8 60ft I've ran 12.7s-12.8s.

 

[bunits19714]

Put your rear sway bar back in. The weight you are saving is not worth not having one. I did the same thing and now the sway bar is back in.

+ 1- here get that rear sway bar back on. the s197 is a 3 link not old school fox body 4 link- a really stiff sway bar in the rear actually acts like a jr. anti roll bar,

 

[2005Redfire6]

Is the car running properly? Who's your tuner? Do you have any time slips?

Even with a 1.8 60ft I've ran 12.7s-12.8s.

Yes the car is running right . I mentioned in my first post I was having shifting issues which included lockouts which caused super slow or missed shifts. That issue has been resolved though and I haven't had shifting issues since, haven't been back to the track though.

 

[NickD87]

so these are et street radials not the bias ply right?
Im prob close to the same power (maybe 235 not sure) on 275/40/17 radials

I agree track prep must be good or it wont hook, I noticed in each of your vids the other cars were on street tires, that alone can kill your day from bringing water on the track and tearing up the groove. I had public test n tune night where I couldnt launch above 3k, the next two events at the same track I was able to launch at 5k

I also dont think I am trapping that high in 4th with 4.10's and the 26" tire.

At our power level without a steeper gear I think we would bog with the 28's

 

[2005Redfire6]

so these are et street radials not the bias ply right?
Im prob close to the same power (maybe 235 not sure) on 275/40/17 radials

I agree track prep must be good or it wont hook, I noticed in each of your vids the other cars were on street tires, that alone can kill your day from bringing water on the track and tearing up the groove. I had public test n tune night where I couldnt launch above 3k, the next two events at the same track I was able to launch at 5k

I also dont think I am trapping that high in 4th with 4.10's and the 26" tire.

At our power level without a steeper gear I think we would bog with the 28's

Yes they are the non bias ply ET Street radial. At that particular event there were lots of street tires. Still trying to determine if I want to do a 26 or 28" slick. Will probably go with the 28" because I may go up to a 4.30 or 4.56 when my axle is ready for rebuild.

 

[obsrt86]

Yes they are the non bias ply ET Street radial. At that particular event there were lots of street tires. Still trying to determine if I want to do a 26 or 28" slick. Will probably go with the 28" because I may go up to a 4.30 or 4.56 when my axle is ready for rebuild.

I'm running 26" bias ply et streets with 4.10s. I'm happy with the set up, just need to play with the psi with these bias ply since its my first time with them. Still I'm able to pull low 1.7 60fts with 4k launches.

 

[2005Redfire6]

I'm running 26" bias ply et streets with 4.10s. I'm happy with the set up, just need to play with the psi with these bias ply since its my first time with them. Still I'm able to pull low 1.7 60fts with 4k launches.

Manual or auto? May go with the 26" after all.

 

[obsrt86]

Manual or auto? May go with the 26" after all.

I have a stick

 

[lindertw]

I ran 4.10's for a few years with 26" et street bias ply tires. PB for that setup was 12.095 @ 111.08 with 1.576 60' (excellent track prep with negative DA). N/A 3V, 302rwhp/317rwtq, 3490 lbs race weight with driver.

With the 4.10's I was crossing the stripe at 5700-5800rpm. Launch off the limiter at 6500rpm and shift at/near 6500rpm.

This winter I switched to 4.56's, still with the 26" tire - I cross the stripe at ~6350rpm now, just about perfect. I also had the car retuned (329rwhp/350rwtq now) and installed Viking D/A rear shocks, so I'm trying to get everything sorted out again - hoping to hit 11.9x this year N/A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRpRfJJnr1s

 

[lindertw]

+ 1- here get that rear sway bar back on. the s197 is a 3 link not old school fox body 4 link- a really stiff sway bar in the rear actually acts like a jr. anti roll bar,

word...

I swapped the OEM rear sway bar for a whiteline adjustable piece. It's been an effective and inexpensive drag arb (on the stiffest setting, it's like 3.5x as stiff as the OEM bar). Works with my low power setup, bolts in, weighs just a few pounds more than the OEM piece, and keeps the front end level.

 

[lindertw]

Hey guys, I have made approximately 15 passes in my car and due to traction issues/shifting issues (shifting issues are fixed) my PB is a 13.07. With the mods/weight of the car I should be low low in the 12s. I have experimented with tire PSI as low as 12-16 psi., I have also experimented with different shock settings suggested by some guys on here in other threads. Here are some details on the car:

- 2005 w/ approx. 350+ whp
- 5 speed
- Weighs 3130 w/o driver

Current setup:

BMR LCA
BMR Relocation brackets (LCAs are in the 2nd hole from the bottom)
BMR Adjustable UCA
BMR Adjustable PHB
BMR PHB Support
Strange 10 way F/R Shocks
Stock V6 springs
MT ET Streets 275/60/15
4.10 gears
No rear or front sway bar

The car has more mods obviously, just thought those were the only real important ones.

I have launched the car as low as 3700 or so and it just blows the tires off launching off the 2-step. I am thinking about going to a slick and I am trying to determine if I should go with a 26" or 28" tall tire. Currently I am shifting around 6800-6900 and the car is hitting the 7000 limiter right around the 1300 ft mark. in 3rd gear. Would it be wise to go to a 26" tire? Which slick would you guys suggest? Let me know if you have any more questions.

Edit: my fastest 60' is a mid 1.8 or so will have to check to verify. I have a line lock and feel as if I am doing a sufficient burnout.

what clutch to you have? OEM/stock clutch works very well and has just the right amount of slip for our low power level.

- UCA in upper hole on UCA bracket (start off with UCA same length as OEM piece)
- set pinion angle to -2 or -2.5 degrees
- LCA in middle hole (where you have it)
- front struts full loose (softest setting)
- rear shocks +7 clicks (from softest setting, to start)
- 26" M/T ET drag slicks, start at 12psi
launch off the limiter @ 6500, shift at/near 6500 (verify shift point with your dyno sheet using this calculator http://glennmessersmith.com/shiftpt.html) If you have an aftermarket clutch, you're going to have to find the sweet spot that allows you to launch at the highest RPM possible and not blow the tires off - some aftermarket clutches hit very hard.

report back

 

[2005Redfire6]

WOW. Thanks for the info Linder. I am going to snag a rear sway bar, probably that one you have (never seen them mounted like that).

I am using a McLeod RST. I will have to verify the shift points, I am running 127500 cams and other bolt-ons and my limiter is set at 7000. I will have to play with it and see what it'll do!

 

[lindertw]

WOW. Thanks for the info Linder. I am going to snag a rear sway bar, probably that one you have (never seen them mounted like that).

I am using a McLeod RST. I will have to verify the shift points, I am running 127500 cams and other bolt-ons and my limiter is set at 7000. I will have to play with it and see what it'll do!

that clutch will hit a little bit harder than stock, but you should still be able launch at much higher rpm's than what you are now.

- with the whiteline rear sway bar, call Team Z Motorsports and ask for a set of their cobra jet anti-roll bar downlinks that come with their strip series 1 kit ($50 if I recall). These are rod end pieces, and while noisy, they have zero bind. The factory whiteline downlinks are smaller in diameter and the rubber bushings caused bind. All told you should be in for about $275 for the whiteline bar and Team Z downlinks. Note you will have to drill the hole on the whiteline bar so the Team Z bolt will fit (five minute job). When you bolt up the bar, install the drivers side downlink bolt, and have someone that weighs the same as you sit in the drivers seat - then adjust the passenger downlink size so the bolt will just slip in the bar, this will give you zero preload on the bar.

- when you have your slicks mounted, use Permatex high tack glue to keep them in place (ask the tech mounting them to NOT use the slippery goop that they use on street tires).

 

[bunits19714]

that clutch will hit a little bit harder than stock, but you should still be able launch at much higher rpm's than what you are now.

- with the whiteline rear sway bar, call Team Z Motorsports and ask for a set of their cobra jet anti-roll bar downlinks that come with their strip series 1 kit ($50 if I recall). These are rod end pieces, and while noisy, they have zero bind. The factory whiteline downlinks are smaller in diameter and the rubber bushings caused bind. All told you should be in for about $275 for the whiteline bar and Team Z downlinks. Note you will have to drill the hole on the whiteline bar so the Team Z bolt will fit (five minute job). When you bolt up the bar, install the drivers side downlink bolt, and have someone that weighs the same as you sit in the drivers seat - then adjust the passenger downlink size so the bolt will just slip in the bar, this will give you zero preload on the bar.

- when you have your slicks mounted, use Permatex high tack glue to keep them in place (ask the tech mounting them to NOT use the slippery goop that they use on street tires).

I run the same rear sway bar set up and it works really well- haven't had any bind issue that I am aware of but never gave much thought to going to a heavy down link- Team Z is just 20 mins from me - this maybe my next purchase.- thanks.

 

[2005Redfire6]

Ordered the 26x10.5x15 Street R bias ply today. Can't find the Whiteline bar in stock anywhere!

 

[2005Redfire6]

Making moves! Added a whiteline bar and 26" Street R bias ply tires, will be taking it to the track 4/30.

 

[lindertw]

26" Street R bias ply tires

very interested in the results with these tires. Did the M/T rep give a starting pressure to run? I'm curious if you treat them like bias ply (and run lower psi) or radial (and run a little higher psi).

good luck

 

[2005Redfire6]

very interested in the results with these tires. Did the M/T rep give a starting pressure to run? I'm curious if you treat them like bias ply (and run lower psi) or radial (and run a little higher psi).

good luck

As a bias ply I am assuming, will be headed to the track tomorrow. We will see how she goes!

 

[2005Redfire6]

Well guys I went to the track yesterday and was only able to make 3 passes and then it poured.

I ran two 12.8s w/ 1.7XX 60" (both PBs), my best run came on the 3rd run launching at 5k (next run I was going to launch higher). I have a stock diff, etc and did not want to nuke it out of the gate. I was running 14 psi in the tires cold, 7 clicks stiff in rear, 0 clicks in front. I wasn't able to really mess with anything but the launch RPM, both 12.8s were launching at 4500. I am confident with some tweaking and more runs I would of gotten below a 12.5 or so, sucks that it rained! I used a DA calculator for yesterday and my 12.78 @ 107.88 corrects to a 12.34 @ 111 (DA was 2906). I am just happy to finally be in the 12s and be moving in the right direction, these Street Rs hook 10x better than the MT ET Street radial I had.

12.7 pass (1.739 60", 12.78 @ 107.88)

Both of these 12.8s (Excuse my piss poor shifting on the 1st pass, haven't driven it in a while lol)