Koni Sport dampers and Evolution driving school..

kcbrown

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So, here's what's ironic. Without all those maths, you'll note that I tend to recommend to folks to start out at about 1 turn up in front, 1/2-3/4 turn up in the rear. :)

Yep. :)

I like that there's more than one way to arrive at the same basic starting point. But perhaps more importantly, the fact that you're recommending roughly the same starting point as is being derived here means that either we're both wrong, or the mathematical approach actually has validity.

But it's just a starting point, and going past that is where your experience really comes into its own.


From there YOU have to find what works best. And by what works best I mean what feels and acts in a way that is to your liking, for how you use and drive the car. And here's a dirty secret, you can do all the math you want to figure critical damping (which I guess I kind of hit on being stupid <G>), but it doesn't account for any number of other factors in which you might want to adjust the dampers.
Of course. It's only a starting point. Driving is very much a preference-dependent thing. How you adjust the dampers and the other parameters of the suspension will depend on how you want your car to behave, which depends on your specific driving style and goals.


Tires all differ in construction and compound. Some turn in better than others. Some are more prone to oversteer on entry, some make the car push more, etc. You also adjust your damping to effect change there. If the numbers could do the job you'd not have racing winning cars on multi-car teams running different setups.
At the same time, though, if the numbers were worthless then you wouldn't have suspension engineers designing and adjusting the suspensions of many of those race winning cars, and most certainly the formula guys wouldn't bother spending money on that.

Seems to me you ideally want both, a hybrid approach of numbers backed by solid experience derived from experimentation. You can win on the latter alone (you've done it, so we know it can be done). I've no idea if anyone has won on the former alone. I wouldn't expect so simply because the models just aren't that precise (though that's changing over time what with the kind of simulation technology available today and all), and for competition you're talking about tuning to the Nth degree.

But the numerical approach might get you closer to your goal faster than trying out every possible combination would, a sort of shortcut that gets you to the midpoint of the process faster.


You'd not have adjustable shocks, or adjustable anything else for that matter) on a car. But the reality of the situation is such that you need tuning to really dial a car in. And until a computer drives the car, the dynamics of what is happening is much more important than they theoretical.
Yes, in part because the conditions you're facing change. Don't the best teams adjust their suspension settings on the basis of the track they're driving on and the conditions they'll be driving in, as well as the specific preferences of the driver?


I get that some of you guys like to push numbers around. That's ok, but know when to say when. And as for not wanting to "win" anything and using that as an excuse, I guess I don't buy it.
Well, you should be buying it in my case because it's true. I'm not in this to compete at all. If I were, I certainly wouldn't be doing it in my daily driver! (Note that if I were competing, it would be on the track, not in autocross, because driving on the track interests me more in general).


If that were true then no need to go to schools, or pay to enter autocrosses, etc. The numbers that matter in terms of performance are those on the clock, not on the spreadsheets.
Yes, and that bit about the numbers on the clock being the ones that matter confuses me.

It confuses me because in autocross, you (typically) get only 4 runs at a given layout, and it's different each event. When the course changes each event you test your car in, and you only get 4 attempts at the course during the event, how can you possibly adjust your car on the basis of the clock? Seems to me any changes you see in the times during the event are going to have more to do with familiarity with the specifics of the course than anything else. How do you remove that from the time equation?

Don't you have to drive a given course with a given configuration until your times stabilize, so you'll know that you've reached the limit of the car? I don't see how that can possibly be done in 4 runs.

And even if you managed that, how are you going to account for natural variation in time? People don't drive perfectly, not even the best. There's some amount of variation in how they drive a course, and that translates to variation in times. If the change to your car is good for a tenth of a second, but your natural variation is 2 tenths, how can you possibly tell that the change made any difference in only 4 runs??


Bottom line, I suppose it's a bit frustrating for me on a personal level for a few reasons. I know that I have busted my ass to figure out what does and doesn't work, and have proven time and time again that I've figured it out better than those that are hung up on numbers.
Sure. But just because you have done a better job at it by going at it in the way that works best for you doesn't mean the people you're talking about would succeed as well as you do (or even do any better than they already are) by employing your methods. Some of them, myself included, can't employ your methods because, as you say, you've busted your ass to figure out what does and does not work, and that takes the kind of time and dedication that many simply don't have.

Also, has it occurred to you that you may have it figured out as well as you do because you have a good intuition about these things, that it's natural talent? Not everyone you've competed against is the numbers type. I expect many are like you in that they learn what works and doesn't work through experience and experimentation, and some of them may even work as hard as you at it. But you won against them anyway. Why do you suppose that is, if it's not natural talent?


But that's not even the real issue I have. That one is this, and it's part of the title of this thread. I've been teaching for a long time. The most frustrating students are the ones that get into their engineering box. They don't learn as well (if at all), they tend to be argumentative, and very very set in their ways. Open you mind to things you can't quantify to the Nth degree, it's actually not so bad and will make you a better driver.
I certainly can't argue with this. I'm sure I'm guilty as charged. I can say I'm not running numbers or anything like that when I'm driving the car -- I'm concentrating on driving the car in that case. But at least it seems I can talk at the same time.
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90% of autocrossers are very technical. Engineers, programmers, accountants, etc. But the number of those folks that are really good at it is far less than that 90%
The number of people who are really good at any given thing is far less than 90% of the people who attempt that thing. Most people are just average. That's just how it is.


and you start to see folks who can think more abstractly on the fly are going to drive better. The car will in turn react better. And the sum of both is that it's FASTER.

If you are out to do the numbers as a mental exercise that's fine. But you have to trust me when I tell you that it never stays that way and Paralysis by Analysis always sets in when I'm instructing those who can't shut it off when in the car. Also you can learn a lot about what the car likes and wants by not asking it to do something it doesn't like (it'll tell you), and tuning with a basic foundation of how things work. Like for example, typically more rebound at one end of the car makes that end of the car react faster to inputs and roll slower. And that's how I came to know that a basic setting for Koni's on Sports is around 1 and 1/2-3/4 turn... for the street. Autocrossing you typically want MORE than critical damping. And in fact you'll find that most performance cars have more than critical damping in them.
So if you want that much damping for autocross, then why do you want soft springs for it (if you do)? If you want that much suspension stiffness, won't you be better off with one that has less distance to travel in the transitions? Won't a suspension with stiffer springs be that much more responsive?


And finally. If the critical damping was the end all be all, you'd not have so many cars with adjustable damping, or MR dampers showing up. But they are because 'critical' isn't always the best driving or feeling.
Again, can't argue with any of this. The critical damping thing just looks like a reasonable starting point.

The rest is tweaks. For me, that will have to wait until I'm consistent enough and in tune enough with the car that I will be able to tell the difference.

I think experimentation is critical. You obviously do too, since that's how you acquired your knowledge. The only difference may be in how one decides a starting point and how one decides what experiments to perform.

That raises a question I have for you: how do you determine which way to tweak something for testing purposes? You know what you're getting right now, and you know what goal you want to achieve, and you have this unknown quantity (the car) in hand that you've driven only in its current configuration. How do you know what to modify and how much to modify it? How do you zero in on exactly the right settings when you have so many different interacting things to change (springs, sway bars, dampers, tires, ride height, roll center, etc.)? If you don't do it on the basis of computing the relationships involved in changing multiple things simultaneously (or even changing one thing that interacts with other things), then how do you have any idea what you're going to get after making those changes? Clearly you have to have some idea of that or you'll be spending years testing all possible combinations of settings for just that one car.
 
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sheizasosay

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So I called Koni. Apparently KC isn't crazy and the rears DO have more rebound.

Here is what the tech gave me:
Front Compression: 850 newtons .33/ms or 13 in/s
Rear Compression: 600 newtons

Front Rebound: 1300 newtons at full soft.
Rear Rebound: 1400 newtons at full soft.

The tech told me that the range of respective damping forces will double from full soft to full stiff. So the rear is 2800 on full stiff...etc.

Converted Newtons to lbs force:

Front Compression: 191 lbs
Rear Copmression: 134 lbs

Front Rebound: 292 lbs - 584 lbs
Rear Rebound: 314 lbs - 628 lbs

I don't know how to accommodate the difference in the Koni "industry standard" of 13 in/s vs your 10 in/s. But either way, the trend certainly shows that the forces are stronger for the rears with rebound. My BS card has been retracted.
 

Sam Strano

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Sorry.. Been busy and not been able to check in. I have dyno's for the Koni's (and despite things that others have seen I never had a failure of one from 2008-2014 on the same set). And I sell a lot of them. Every championship I've one except for two have been on some form of Koni Sport. And well, not everyone can say they've even won one.... In fact Koni Sports are what went back on my car @ Nationals in 2010 when my "other" shocks blew up in a major oil leaking way. And I won both the ProSolo and Solo National Championships that week.

Do the rears have more damping at some point than the fronts? They do, but way up high, much higher than ever run a car that's not completely screwed on spring and bars. The only time I was anywhere near full stiff (and I mean within one turn of it) was on my 2007 GT, NOT the Shelby in F-stock trim (before the rear bar was legal to change). I ran a bunch more rear shock AND higher rear air pressure than front to help it rotate....and it helped some, but it was just a pushy car, but AWESOME in transition. @ Nationals in 2008 a guy in a Bullitt learned how that works, he was fast and in 2nd on day 1 on a very transitional course, but dropped like a rock on the day 2 course which was much more sweeper intensive... and he was on Bilstein's so he had no way to even tweak the car.

Moving on. How do you know what to tweak? Experience. Trying things. Consistent driving is a HUGE key in figuring stuff out. I simply break it down. What is the car doing, or not doing, and when? Is it pushy? Is it loose? Is it doing something odd on the way into a corner, mid corner, or the way out? Is it a mess transitionally? etc, etc. You troubleshoot. It's like asking a mechanic how they diagnose a problem there could be a number of way to come up with an answer.

You mention springs. You seem to imply, or ask, if I want firm damping why not firm springs? Well "firm" is a matter of opinion, what someone thinks is stiff someone else thinks is soft. :) But here's the deal. Stiff isn't stiff. Damping and wheel rate are NOT at all the same things. More of either can make the car generically more responsive, but in very, very different ways. And one has a much bigger steady state effect, the other a more transitional. Make a car too stiff in wheel rate and it slides, you turn it into a go-kart. Not I'm not condoning some damper that pack the suspension down, some do.

I only want the car as stiff in roll as I need to control the camber curve. Beyond that anything stiffer hurts mechanical grip. See also how "real racers" soften cars when it gets more slippery or aero isn't in play (which it isn't on most of our cars). We aren't in F1 cars, or even Cup cars. But do you notice how much a Cup car move around on short ovals and road courses vs. "aero" tracks like the fast 1.5 milers and larger? Mock if you want, but realistically a Cup car is most similar to what we run in terms of weight and relative tire sizes. We aren't in Trans Am cars.
 

kcbrown

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Sorry.. Been busy and not been able to check in.

No worries. I'm just happy that you're continuing to respond!


Moving on. How do you know what to tweak? Experience. Trying things. Consistent driving is a HUGE key in figuring stuff out.
That's pretty much what I figured. It means I probably have a long way to go before I can really properly evaluate the results of any but the most obvious changes.

But learning what to tweak when you're dealing with a complex system requires an incredible amount of trial and error, more so than most people can muster. So those of us who are inclined towards engineering use models to narrow the choices a bit. It's no substitute for experimentation, and the ultimate litmus test is what happens in the real world once you've made the changes. But it seems a good augmentation to it. You can get away with doing things without such a model, but you have to substitute a lot more experimentation.


I simply break it down. What is the car doing, or not doing, and when? Is it pushy? Is it loose? Is it doing something odd on the way into a corner, mid corner, or the way out? Is it a mess transitionally? etc, etc. You troubleshoot. It's like asking a mechanic how they diagnose a problem there could be a number of way to come up with an answer.
Right. But it's not just a question of diagnosing the problem, it's a question of knowing what to do about it once you've identified the issue. Therein lies the usefulness of both models and experience.


You mention springs. You seem to imply, or ask, if I want firm damping why not firm springs? Well "firm" is a matter of opinion, what someone thinks is stiff someone else thinks is soft. :)
No doubt! I'm really comparing your approach as I understand it with the approach that others (e.g., Terry Fair) take. They use (comparatively) very stiff springs (600 lb/in or more up front, if I'm not mistaken). You don't (that I know of, at any rate). They get excellent results. You get excellent results.

How is it that you're both achieving excellent results unless there really is more than one good solution to the problem?


But here's the deal. Stiff isn't stiff. Damping and wheel rate are NOT at all the same things. More of either can make the car generically more responsive, but in very, very different ways.
Right. As I understand it, stiffer springs get you to steady state faster. More damping gets you quick transitional response but you reach steady state more slowly. I suspect you want more of the latter in autocross and road courses that have lots of fast, sharp corners, and more of the former on road courses with more typical corners.

So in terms of wheel rate on the S197, how stiff is too stiff, and how soft is too soft, when you're talking about setting the suspension up for general road course work, and why is it that comparatively stiff springs still seem to work well for many?


And one has a much bigger steady state effect, the other a more transitional. Make a car too stiff in wheel rate and it slides, you turn it into a go-kart. Not I'm not condoning some damper that pack the suspension down, some do.

I only want the car as stiff in roll as I need to control the camber curve.
For these cars, I presume you mean the camber curve on the inside tire? As I understand it, the outside tire is already at a more negative camber as a result of the suspension being compressed there.

Also, how do you decide on the balance between spring rate and sway bar rate? You can control the camber curve with sway bars or with springs, if I'm not mistaken. What is the disadvantage of using as little spring rate in the suspension as you can to keep the suspension off the bump stops, and dialing in the rest of the camber control via sway bars? That seems the logical approach to me, because it ensures that the suspension can generally move as much as it needs to in order to keep the tires in contact with the road surface, while keeping the camber curve under control as well. Admittedly, stiffer sway bars means more upset on the opposite side of the suspension when single-wheel bumps are encountered, so it sounds like there's compromise there as well.


Beyond that anything stiffer hurts mechanical grip. See also how "real racers" soften cars when it gets more slippery or aero isn't in play (which it isn't on most of our cars).
Interesting. I had no idea they did that.
 

Whiskey11

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Also understand that Terry Fair's Mustang has a lot of aero forces AND huge grip generated from the tires. IIRC he's still running the factory height front ball joints too. The spring rates he runs are a direct result of the grip forces his car generates and the need to control the front suspension. Both in the sense of camber curve and keeping the car off the bump stops or from bottoming out the front splitter.

I'm also pretty sure that when Sam is talking about controlling the camber curve with spring rate he means almost exclusively the outside tire. The inside tire's contribution to grip is far less than that of the outside tire and your front suspension is only going to extend as far as the front swaybar and rear roll resistance allows it to.

That brings up another good point with regards to swaybars paired with soft springs. They have disadvantages:
397542_312042302167162_1298594612_n.jpg


If you can tune the rear roll resistance to be high enough to keep that front inside on the ground you certainly can achieve a desirable roll resistance and have a flat turning car, but you still need enough spring rate to keep the nose under control when braking because huge changes in pitch of the car will have just as bad an effect on braking performance as having a front wheel in the air does.
 

Norm Peterson

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For these cars, I presume you mean the camber curve on the inside tire? As I understand it, the outside tire is already at a more negative camber as a result of the suspension being compressed there.
At some point, static camber + camber gain is overcome by the amount of roll.

Your tires probably reach peak grip coefficient at some small amount of negative camber.

The inside tire becomes lightly loaded, so the adverse camber effect there is generally less important than maximizing what you can find from the outside tire. But guess what the roundy-round racers do here . . .


Norm
 

kcbrown

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At some point, static camber + camber gain is overcome by the amount of roll.

Your tires probably reach peak grip coefficient at some small amount of negative camber.

The inside tire becomes lightly loaded, so the adverse camber effect there is generally less important than maximizing what you can find from the outside tire. But guess what the roundy-round racers do here . . .

Hmm...so you're trying to cause the camber curve to peak (negative) at the same time maximum grip is achieved. How much suspension travel is left in the S197 at that point with the stock geometry? And wouldn't you be able to dial that in by adjusting the ball joint without having to touch the springs?
 

kcbrown

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That brings up another good point with regards to swaybars paired with soft springs. They have disadvantages:
397542_312042302167162_1298594612_n.jpg

Wow. Impressive. :)


If you can tune the rear roll resistance to be high enough to keep that front inside on the ground you certainly can achieve a desirable roll resistance and have a flat turning car,
Right, but isn't the rear roll resistance governed by the combination of spring rate sway bar rate, which means you can increase it by increasing the rear sway bar rate if you don't want to touch the springs?

Which is to say, I don't (yet) understand how what you're talking about here is an argument against soft springs and stiff sway bars. It certainly makes the case that you need the right front to rear balance.


but you still need enough spring rate to keep the nose under control when braking because huge changes in pitch of the car will have just as bad an effect on braking performance as having a front wheel in the air does.
In what way does increasing the spring rate at all corners improve braking? How does it increase the total amount of downforce at each corner? And wouldn't you be better off tuning the front to rear balance through the rear suspension geometry via the control arms? Or does getting a proper balance there mean getting more roll steer than you'd like?
 
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sheizasosay

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There are two problems with soft spring/stiff bar setups IMO:

1: brake dive is hard to fix. You wind up going to dampers for a job springs are suppose to do

2- swaybars inherently remove grip by their own device. Taking opposite wheel.
 
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Whiskey11

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Wow. Impressive. :)


Right, but isn't the rear roll resistance governed by the combination of spring rate sway bar rate, which means you can increase it by increasing the rear sway bar rate if you don't want to touch the springs?

Which is to say, I don't (yet) understand how what you're talking about here is an argument against soft springs and stiff sway bars. It certainly makes the case that you need the right front to rear balance.


In what way does increasing the spring rate at all corners improve braking? How does it increase the total amount of downforce at each corner? And wouldn't you be better off tuning the front to rear balance through the rear suspension geometry via the control arms? Or does getting a proper balance there mean getting more roll steer than you'd like?

Understand that a swaybar takes load from the inside tires in a turn and places it on the outside tire. That is the downfall to using a swaybar to reduce body roll. Fine when you aren't overloading that tire, not fine when you do. On the S197, even with a live axle, a lot of rear bar is going to reduce weight on the rear axle which can place extra wear on a clutch based differential or just light up a Torsen style diff if the inside tire gets light enough. Definitely possible even with the 300lbs of unsprung live axle weight. So once again, too much bar is as bad as too much spring.

Increasing front spring rate improves braking for the same reason it can improve front end grip while cornering. By minimizing the suspension travel, within reason, keeps the tires flatter to the pavement which improves braking.

Increasing front spring rate does nothing for downforce. It is necessary to have the right amount to keep a sane ride height at speed and because the increase in downforce improves grip you also have the need for stiffer springs to keep the the suspension under control.

I'm not sure where you are going with tuning the rear geometry. You can indeed tune the handling balance through front and rear suspension geometry but like all things, compromise will always be there. Like bars and springs, you have to balance instant center height, roll center height, %Anti-squat, %Anti-lift, camber curve, roll steer effects, bump steer, etc, etc.
 

kcbrown

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Understand that a swaybar takes load from the inside tires in a turn and places it on the outside tire. That is the downfall to using a swaybar to reduce body roll. Fine when you aren't overloading that tire, not fine when you do. On the S197, even with a live axle, a lot of rear bar is going to reduce weight on the rear axle which can place extra wear on a clutch based differential or just light up a Torsen style diff if the inside tire gets light enough. Definitely possible even with the 300lbs of unsprung live axle weight. So once again, too much bar is as bad as too much spring.

Increasing front spring rate improves braking for the same reason it can improve front end grip while cornering. By minimizing the suspension travel, within reason, keeps the tires flatter to the pavement which improves braking.

Ah, of course. I should have realized that. Yes, it helps control camber in braking as well. Except ...

If camber is less negative at full braking than in cornering, which could happen if the front suspension is more compressed under braking than the outside is in cornering and outside camber is at its most negative during cornering, then you'd get better braking as a result. Would the suspension actually go into positive camber territory with soft springs up front? If not, then the soft springs up front are actually helping your braking, aren't they?

That assumes the front suspension doesn't go to the bump stops during braking. If it does, then the front springs just aren't stout enough for the available compression travel.

There's gotta be a way to compute what spring rates are most desirable for that.


I'm not sure where you are going with tuning the rear geometry.
I was thinking in terms of anti-lift geometry, and thought perhaps you were trying to get more weight transfer up front with the stiffer springs.


You can indeed tune the handling balance through front and rear suspension geometry but like all things, compromise will always be there. Like bars and springs, you have to balance instant center height, roll center height, %Anti-squat, %Anti-lift, camber curve, roll steer effects, bump steer, etc, etc.
Yeah. A huge compromise. Tons of variables to attempt to optimize. Makes for a fun problem. My kind of problem, once I get my driving consistent enough to detect the result of changes. :crazy:
 

Whiskey11

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Ah, of course. I should have realized that. Yes, it helps control camber in braking as well. Except ...

If camber is less negative at full braking than in cornering, which could happen if the front suspension is more compressed under braking than the outside is in cornering and outside camber is at its most negative during cornering, then you'd get better braking as a result. Would the suspension actually go into positive camber territory with soft springs up front? If not, then the soft springs up front are actually helping your braking, aren't they?

The whole point of my comment was that minimizing changes in camber under braking keeps a more consistent contact patch which means better braking. Softer springs also mean the chassis takes longer to respond to braking inputs since the displacement of the weight transfer is larger.
 

Norm Peterson

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Ah, of course. I should have realized that. Yes, it helps control camber in braking as well. Except ...

If camber is less negative at full braking than in cornering, which could happen if the front suspension is more compressed under braking than the outside is in cornering and outside camber is at its most negative during cornering, then you'd get better braking as a result. Would the suspension actually go into positive camber territory with soft springs up front? If not, then the soft springs up front are actually helping your braking, aren't they?
You have to also look at camber with respect to the pavement rather than only to the chassis, because what you're trying to understand/optimize is happening down at the tire contact patches. Not what's happening where the suspension bolts to the chassis (that's the structural guy's problem).

Subject to a certain restriction on FVIC location, braking always drives front wheel camber more negative than the static alignment setting, and this theoretically isn't ideal. Under max braking there isn't any roll happening to try to straighten the wheel back up relative to the pavement. How much it hurts you . . . depends (like most suspension tuning topics).


There's gotta be a way to compute what spring rates are most desirable for that.
There is a very simple one, with a single answer . . . until you realize that doing so would make the car untuneable, never mind intolerant of bumps in the road (and human intolerance of that). OE's have used something very expen$$$$$ive (you have to request a quote!) called 'Adams' to work with, and they still have test drivers on the payroll.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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As I understand it, stiffer springs get you to steady state faster. More damping gets you quick transitional response but you reach steady state more slowly. I suspect you want more of the latter in autocross and road courses that have lots of fast, sharp corners, and more of the former on road courses with more typical corners.
What happens when you look at this in terms of forces over time? Keep in mind that forces through the geo roll centers, dampers, and springs/bars do not develop at the same rates, nor will the force curves plotted against time all have the same shape.

A lot of damping force load transfer midway through suspension travel (where suspension velocities are relatively high) that drops off as suspension velocities slow tends to be compensated for by the still increasing load transfer through the springs and bars. Perhaps "taking a set" is partly force-based and does not require absolute geometric equilibrium.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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Hmm...so you're trying to cause the camber curve to peak (negative) at the same time maximum grip is achieved. How much suspension travel is left in the S197 at that point with the stock geometry? And wouldn't you be able to dial that in by adjusting the ball joint without having to touch the springs?
You want your outside front tire to reach whatever the ideal camber relative to the road is when you're at a state of maximum quasi-static roll (max lateral g's, those tires, that day, on that surface).

Touching the ball joint will affect bump steer (which sort of becomes front roll steer when you're looking at suspension travel while cornering).


Norm
 

kcbrown

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You have to also look at camber with respect to the pavement rather than only to the chassis, because what you're trying to understand/optimize is happening down at the tire contact patches. Not what's happening where the suspension bolts to the chassis (that's the structural guy's problem).

Subject to a certain restriction on FVIC location, braking always drives front wheel camber more negative than the static alignment setting, and this theoretically isn't ideal. Under max braking there isn't any roll happening to try to straighten the wheel back up relative to the pavement. How much it hurts you . . . depends (like most suspension tuning topics).

That depends on the angle of the LCA (more precisely, the horizontal distance between the LCA pivot and its endpoint. Since we're talking about braking, we can simplify to that as there's no roll angle to worry about) at static ride height versus at maximum braking, right?

Wouldn't surprise me if you're right about that with respect to the stock suspension, though.


There is a very simple one, with a single answer . . . until you realize that doing so would make the car untuneable, never mind intolerant of bumps in the road (and human intolerance of that). OE's have used something very expen$$$$$ive (you have to request a quote!) called 'Adams' to work with, and they still have test drivers on the payroll.
Heh. So expensive you have to contact them to get a quote. Sort of a "if you have to ask, then you can't afford it" kind of thing. :omfg:


You want your outside front tire to reach whatever the ideal camber relative to the road is when you're at a state of maximum quasi-static roll (max lateral g's, those tires, that day, on that surface).

Right. There are enough external variables that you can't always achieve the ideal exactly, but you can supposedly get the average to be that. Question is, is that what the stock suspension does with street tires (hence, cornering forces of around 1G)? If not, how much of a change in the LCA endpoint location would be needed to get it there? My suspicion is that it's already very close from the factory, assuming stock springs and sway bars.

If you go to slicks and stay on stock springs, how much would you have to move the LCA endpoint in order to, on average, again reach ideal camber? I know that you get more grip as you put larger tires on the car, so that's a moving target as well. So let's say we're talking about the largest slicks you can stuff under the car without modifying sheet metal. I'm assuming here that you won't be on the bump stops on the outside.

Basically, I'm trying to get a feel for how much of a geometric change you'd have to make to keep the suspension operating near its ideal when at full cornering, both in stock form with street tires and with the largest slicks you can stick under there. If we know how much change in LCA endpoint location is required, we can compute how much additional spring rate would be required to eliminate that change.


Touching the ball joint will affect bump steer (which sort of becomes front roll steer when you're looking at suspension travel while cornering).
I'd forgotten that, but yes. I don't know if that would be possible to dial out. Doing that exactly right would, I expect, require fabrication of parts specific to the amount of change in the ball joint.
 
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Norm Peterson

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That depends on the angle of the LCA (more precisely, the horizontal distance between the LCA pivot and its endpoint. Since we're talking about braking, we can simplify to that as there's no roll angle to worry about) at static ride height versus at maximum braking, right?

Wouldn't surprise me if you're right about that with respect to the stock suspension, though.
LCA inclination is maybe half of it, probably the easy half. Keep in mind that the wheel and tire do not rotate about the chassis-side LCA pivot unless your suspension arrangement is somewhere between a little bit strange (Ford's Twin I-beam) and a lot stupid. Geometrically, the LCA inclination can only define the line along which that point lies. You need something else to identify where along the LCA line the FVIC lies.

What I'm thinking of applies to any independent suspension, whether it's a stock McStrut, a tweaked one, a "modified McStrut", or even a SLA/multilink.


Basically, I'm trying to get a feel for how much of a geometric change you'd have to make to keep the suspension operating near its ideal when at full cornering, both in stock form with street tires and with the largest slicks you can stick under there. If we know how much change in LCA endpoint location is required, we can compute how much additional spring rate would be required to eliminate that change.
Once you know how to mathematically construct the FVIC, it's not a huge step from there to find the geo RC and develop a camber gain curve, though as a hint for checking the reasonableness of your results you do need to keep the concept of FVIC migration in mind. A two-wheel bump model is easiest, if somewhat imprecise for working with roll. But it'll be close enough to provide some insight, and you won't need anything fancier than Excel.

I think you already have something for lateral load transfer or roll stiffness distribution.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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http://www.shock-shop.com/Thoughts_on_Damping/Shock_Tuning.php

KC, as I read through some of that webpage, which has access to critical damping calculators, I realized this guy was "YO MAN". Probably should have just PM'd you, but too late now!
I pulled up both .pdf's and the Excel sheet and none of the cells I checked had any dependent cells.
One can download Critical Damping Analysis data sheet in PDF or Excel format as well as Instructions. Although folks sometimes complain about the effort required to gather the data, in the end they always recognize the effort was worthwhile because they learned so much more about the car.
So I don't think that sheet does any math. Are you thinking of a different link?


Norm
 

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I pulled up both .pdf's and the Excel sheet and none of the cells I checked had any dependent cells. So I don't think that sheet does any math. Are you thinking of a different link?


Norm

No. I read their philosophy on shock tuning and how they very much aimed at critical damping. I continued to read what they were proclaiming and couldn't help but think of KC and how he was aggressively seeking critical damping. I saw the links for the spreadsheet and excel and didn't click on them myself. I see now that it is a form that you fill out that you give to the shop so they can valve the damper you purchase for critical damping with the software they have. Apologies for not being more thorough.

I still think, based off their philosophy, that this shop has KC's name all over it. It's an opinion anyway.
 

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