Koni Sport dampers and Evolution driving school..

kcbrown

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All I'm saying is the available damping force for the fronts should be MUCH greater than the rears.

Given that lowering springs generally have greater strength up front than in the rear, due to the fact that lowering the car lowers the roll center by a bunch and you need that much more spring up front just to keep the car from rolling more than it previously did, I agree, I would think the damping force would be greater up front. But apparently, it's not.

Working backwards from the dyno plots, and assuming that one wants 100% critical damping, it looks like the maximum spring rate the fronts are good for is about 400 lb/in. That's on the basis of the critical damping value being about 62.5 lb/in-sec.

The rears, on the other hand, appear to be good for springs up to about 1300 lb/in! :omfg: If we were to transpose the front and rear (i.e., assume that the rear dyno plot is actually for the front), then the front maximum works out to just under 1000 lb/in, which is still insanely large.

Whether the plots are reversed or not, I know of no lowering springs that come anywhere near those values, even for the front. So I think it's safe to say that Koni has their use case covered here.
 
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kcbrown

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You guys do realize that any calculated setting is only a starting point . . . It's almost guaranteed that your optimal settings will be different for at least one end of the car

Remember, too, that 65% is (supposedly) roughly the best point of compromise between ride quality and handling with respect to the damping. If you want best handling, you may be best served by going with 100% critical damping. I suppose some applications may demand even more than that. I don't know how to mathematically justify more, however.

I set mine to 65% precisely because of the compromise it represents. It works well for me. Frankly, I don't consider myself consistent enough to really detect the kind of minor differences one would supposedly see in lap times due to damper changes. Here, we're probably talking about lap time changes on the order of a tenth of a second, when my lap to lap variation is going to exceed that by at least a factor of three, and probably much more than that.

Yes, I could set the dampers so that the car "feels" better, but just because it feels better doesn't mean you're gaining any speed from it. I suspect I'm better off learning to drive the car to the best of my abilities with the current settings, and then start playing with the damping once I have a reasonable amount of consistency.
 

midlife5.0

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Are you starting with a 2014 Brembo car? Just curious for comparison, I just completed my 1st HPDE event in my 2014 Brembo car at Gingerman recently.
 

Norm Peterson

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Something still doesn't sound right.

Working from the basic units, 2 * SQRT (KM) gives you 2*SQRT([lb/in]*[Wt/g]), or
2*SQRT([lb/in]*[lb/{in/sec^2}]), or
2*SQRT(lb^2/[in^2/sec^2), or ultimately
lb/[in/sec].

I think I've finally got the different parenthesis levels straight.

Feel free to nail me if I'm wrong, but I'm sure that this is a force per unit velocity thing, which should correspond to the slope of a force-velocity curve at some point rather than a discrete y-value point on that curve. Force change per velocity change, dF/dV.


Norm
 
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kcbrown

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Something still doesn't sound right.

Working from the basic units, 2 * SQRT (KM) gives you 2*SQRT([lb/in]*[Wt/g]), or
2*SQRT([lb/in]*[lb/{in/sec^2}]), or
2*SQRT(lb^2/[in^2/sec^2), or ultimately
lb/[in/sec].

I think I've finally got the different parenthesis levels straight.

Feel free to nail me if I'm wrong, but I'm sure that this is a force per unit velocity thing, which should correspond to the slope of a force-velocity curve at some point rather than a discrete y-value point on that curve. Force change per velocity change, dF/dV.

Critical damping force is a function of velocity. More precisely, it is proportional to shaft velocity. That's why it's measured in lbs/in-sec. But it's still a force, and it's only because the force value is proportional to the shaft speed that it has the "per inch/sec" term in its units. It looks like you get this, however, but I just wanted to be clear (and to make sure that I'm not overlooking anything).

Yes, you're essentially looking at the slope of the force-velocity curve, and that's more or less what I attempted to do, by estimating the rate at which the force was increasing in the 1 to 4 in/sec region. This was complicated by the fact that there's hysteresis, so I basically attempted to visually average what I was looking at.
 
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kcbrown

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Are you starting with a 2014 Brembo car? Just curious for comparison, I just completed my 1st HPDE event in my 2014 Brembo car at Gingerman recently.

Mine is a 2014 track package car, which is the same as a 2014 Brembo car but with some added goodies (mainly a few bits and pieces from the Boss 302, such as the radiator, oil cooler, and rear end).

Bet you had a lot of fun with your car at the HPDE! What did you think of how the car handled? You should write up your experience by creating a separate thread for the purpose. I think it's valuable to get multiple perspectives on how the car works in its stock configuration.
 

midlife5.0

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I wish I had the experience of those here to write with some sort of technical view. This was my 3rd HPDE event ever but 1st in this car and at Gingerman. 2014 Brembo car, 6spd auto in sport mode the whole time with stability on and TC off

Car only had 900 miles so I took it out there with stock pads for the day and five 20 minutes sessions. Ended up about 50 laps. We were running the longer 2.1 mile version of the track.

I'd only had about 10 laps on Gingerman long ago so I spent the time learning the track and found the track frustrating enough that I am not even sure about the car. Last event was Road America in a 96 Vette with some work and while higher speed I found Gingerman way more frustrating. The 5 and 6 combo, wow!

I don't want to hijack but high level thoughts:

The car was very well behaved and of course you never know if you are really pushing as hard as anyone around you but I was in intermediate group and seemed to be dueling well all day with a newer M3, a caged S2000 and another 2013 manual 5.0 car which was a manual car with adjustable coil overs of some sort. Back and forth enough all day and we all talked to know we were all close and pushing each other.

At any rate, again figuring out the track was enough for me. But the car was shockingly planted and composed. 2014 came with Eagle F1 something or others, I ran them at 38 PSI cold and they were about 41-42 hot. Not by choice but that was what was in them from the factory and I have not changed. Truly odd was how uneven the torque was on lug nuts when I checked. I digress

On back straight at full speed 110-115 there is a dip somewhere around mid to ¾ straight the front of the car was getting wind under it and front end felt very light. This was an interesting feeling I never dealt with and started thinking splitter.

The M3 and I were dead bang on even in full acceleration. At full throttle on straights after turn out neither of us would move an inch in gap one way or the other. A couple times I found myself grinning behind his beautiful exhaust note admittedly saying go $30 thousand Mustang! I know very technical.

By the end of the day I came away very impressed. The stock brakes hung in there by last two sessions they were getting a bit softer. A little over ½ of stock front pads were used and about same on rear. I ran with stability on and TC off.

Only thing I will tinker with now is brake pads and really considering brake cooling ducts. I would say job well done Ford on this one. I will be doing a couple more events there next year and hope I can write a bit more when I can pay attention to the car more. Right now, I am the weak link.
 

Norm Peterson

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Critical damping force is a function of velocity. More precisely, it is proportional to shaft velocity. That's why it's measured in lbs/in-sec. But it's still a force, and it's only because the force value is proportional to the shaft speed that it has the "per inch/sec" term in its units. It looks like you get this, however, but I just wanted to be clear (and to make sure that I'm not overlooking anything).

Yes, you're essentially looking at the slope of the force-velocity curve, and that's more or less what I attempted to do, by estimating the rate at which the force was increasing in the 1 to 4 in/sec region. This was complicated by the fact that there's hysteresis, so I basically attempted to visually average what I was looking at.
lb / (in/sec) resolves to lb-sec/in. It probably sounds nitpicky, but this topic is tough enough without having to keep moving the time units to the numerator.

I think I'd look at a slightly narrower velocity band, say from 2 ips to 3 ips, and use the F and V values at those velocities to estimate the damping ratio x (%Cc) at 2.5 ips.


Thanks for providing the plots.

Looking at the front damper plots, I think the rebound curves that all start at about +15 lbs and go down to the right represent the first 90° quadrant where a constant-speed motor driving a crosshead provides a sinusoidally increasing velocity input for half of the stroke being tested. The next half of the stroke sinusoidally decreases in accordance with the sine function from 90° to 180°, and these are the lines that continue back up to the left (variously 0 to -65 intercept), then continue as 3rd quadrant bump damping along the lower bump line(s) up to the right. Finally back to +15-ish along the upper bump damping curve, 270° - 360°. The +15 and the odd shapes of the bump damping curves in the 3rd quadrant would be due to fluid compressibility and momentum effects (something I read recently suggests this), which I guess is hysteresis in greater detail.


Norm
 
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kcbrown

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I played with the formula and the numbers come out right if you plug in the SPRUNG weights KC noted. Perhaps that was what he meant?

Yes. Rebound controls the sprung weight, compression controls the unsprung weight.


Great writeup on your experience. Can we say "we told you so" regarding the dampers and camber plates? ;)

Heh. Well, I knew as much once I saw the wear on my tires.

An update on the tire wear: the fronts look like they're still wearing a little faster than the rears, but it is still much improved over what it was before. I may have to take the camber to -2.2 degrees or something. I'm not going to make any changes until after Laguna Seca. I want to see how the tire wear looks under track conditions where I'm not sliding the car around so much.


Like Norm, I'm running much more than +1/4 for the track. My notes show I ended up at about +2 front and +1.5 rear last time when the car felt the best (this was in 100* temps with shot tires). I may have to play with running the rears higher just as an experiment; I was going off the general principles of reducing rear stiffness (where I had any control) to reduce oversteer. For the street I'm about +1/4 or so all around to avoid a buckboard ride. I am also running much more camber for track--I'm at -2.75* which puts me close to where the big dogs around here say the S197 likes to be. On the street I'm at OEM specs.

Well, as I recall, you're running different springs than stock, so your rebound settings will be correspondingly higher just from that. Which springs are you running?
 

kcbrown

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I wish I had the experience of those here to write with some sort of technical view.


No worries. General impressions are good enough when you're starting out like this.


The car was very well behaved and of course you never know if you are really pushing as hard as anyone around you but I was in intermediate group and seemed to be dueling well all day with a newer M3, a caged S2000 and another 2013 manual 5.0 car which was a manual car with adjustable coil overs of some sort. Back and forth enough all day and we all talked to know we were all close and pushing each other.
If you were managing to hang with people in the intermediate group then I'd say you were doing well. Most of the speed around a track is had by driving the car well. Only some of it is the car itself. You'll lose a lot more time taking corners badly than you will by driving a less powerful car. People who drive Miatas well make that much very clear.


At any rate, again figuring out the track was enough for me. But the car was shockingly planted and composed. 2014 came with Eagle F1 something or others, I ran them at 38 PSI cold and they were about 41-42 hot. Not by choice but that was what was in them from the factory and I have not changed. Truly odd was how uneven the torque was on lug nuts when I checked. I digress
That is my impression of the stock suspension as well. It really is amazingly good. You see people criticizing it all the time, but really, based on what I've seen thus far, those criticisms are either from people whose driving skills are so high that they'll notice anything that isn't truly optimal, or they're from people who equate suspension rigidity with "good handling".


On back straight at full speed 110-115 there is a dip somewhere around mid to ¾ straight the front of the car was getting wind under it and front end felt very light. This was an interesting feeling I never dealt with and started thinking splitter.
It might help. Dunno. I got the Boss 302 front splitter for my car because I simply like how it looks better, and figured that it might help direct a little more air into the brake ducts.


By the end of the day I came away very impressed. The stock brakes hung in there by last two sessions they were getting a bit softer. A little over ½ of stock front pads were used and about same on rear. I ran with stability on and TC off.

Only thing I will tinker with now is brake pads and really considering brake cooling ducts. I would say job well done Ford on this one. I will be doing a couple more events there next year and hope I can write a bit more when I can pay attention to the car more. Right now, I am the weak link.
A couple of suggestions.

First, you definitely want better pads. I'm using the Stoptech street performance pads because they're inexpensive, surprisingly good, and don't require that I change them when going back onto the street. They're good to about 1300 degrees and have a nice gradual falloff after that. They work well for me, but that may be because I'm relatively easy on brakes (these pads have lasted me through two Evolution driving school events and 13 days worth of track events so far, and they're not done yet).

Second, you want brake ducts. This may actually be even more important than pads. You have a couple of really good options here. The first is the Ford Racing brake duct kit, and that's what I have on my car. The second is the kit from Vorshlag. Between the two, I might be inclined to go with the Vorshlag option, but that wasn't available at the time I put the ducts on my car. The Vorshlag guys generally do really good engineering, and their support is excellent as well, so their kit is worth taking a hard look at.


Between the brake ducts and the pads I'm running, I've experienced no fade to speak of in my brakes. So far, the hardest track on the brakes has been Laguna Seca. There, I could tell the brakes were getting a workout because they'd start to squeal a bit, but they never stopped gripping. If I were running stickier tires (I'm on Bridgestone S-04 Pole Position tires, size 285-35/19 on all corners), I might have to go with a different compound, but for now, these seem to work very well.


Of all the things that can fail on the car, your brakes are the very last thing you want to fail on you (well, short of some critical bit in your suspension letting go, at any rate). So I highly recommend you get ducts and good pads. The rest is the driver mod. :)
 

midlife5.0

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Thanks for the input and it was a Miata spec guy with a lot of Gingerman laps who helped me at least find my way a bit in turn 5 and 6. I had my eye on Vorshlag ducts and your info on the stoptechs is great as I am too lazy to be swapping pads all the time for a few HPDE events.

Now you guys get back to shock numbers and tech! Next summer after I set the track record I'll join in.
 

Sam Strano

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At the risk of being too blunt. You guys way over think this stuff.

Case in point, I don't recall my Koni curves don't have the rears as stiffer than the fronts, but I'll review them again tomorrow. And that would make little sense given the fact the front of the car is in fact heavier than the rear, and that solid axle cars don't want a crapload of rear shock typically.

But more basically, we have a round wheel and I swear folks are constantly trying to reinvent that round wheel. My best friends are engineers. Hell Shelly is, and not a fly a by night one. She's an M.E. Went to some small scrub school called Stanford. :) And holds some 60 patents and has started two medical device companies. She's also done things like ground cams for Elgin too. She's well rounded, and I harass her, a lot about being "an engineer" sometimes. One common thread with very technical folks is they get bogged down in minutia.

A big one we hear about are suspension frequencies. Fine. But I don't care, in fact I've kicked the crap out of cars setup by numbers. Until a computer drives the car, that stuff is good to know and might help you starting from stratch. But we aren't starting from scratch. And when it comes to competition you have to have a car you can drive. That you can lean on. That you can trust. Personally, I am very opposite of the all the discussion here. I drive the cars, stock. I drive them with alignments and tires, etc. And I make a determination about what it is I think the car needs to do better. Is it loose? Tight? Does it roll too much, or just too fast? Etc, etc. It's troubleshooting, and I'd highly encourage folks to do more of it, and more critical thinking about the problem at hand than thinking so much about theory.

I know that won't be popular, I've been down this road before. However, my method works. I've done a lot of cars that have won stuff. While I'm a pretty good driver, I'm not head and shoulders above lots of others. It's not a matter of me being able to cover a screwed up setup with driving talent. See also how whatever classes I run I get cars to the top. Swaybars I produce won G-street, A-Street, B-street, and STX. I didn't win SSR, a Porsche did which I don't work with, but I was 2nd and most of the cars up at the top are cars I setup and were running my setups. I also did the the Mustang that just barely missed winning ESP (to a Subaru on E85 that's lighter, narrower, AWD, and makes more torque too), pretty much from top to bottom.

Here's another. Spring rates. Not uncommon to see folks going nuts like 800 pounds and sometime more. But when I see this http://www.stranoparts.com/showimage.php?p=data/images/m510182024.jpg&w=512&a=1&s=1 I don't really see the point of running 2.5 times the rates I that result in that decidedly not rolly-polly car (and note that the camber isn't doing stupid things either), except the answer I often get is something like "the numbers say...." Well at some point I have to work on reality. That picture is on concrete. It's in Lincoln. The car is on 315 A6's. You can see it's not rolled in to positive camber, and it wears front tires exceedingly well. So I ask myself why?

Take it fwiw.
 

kcbrown

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At the risk of being too blunt. You guys way over think this stuff.

Possibly. But for me, at least, mainly because it's fun. :)


Case in point, I don't recall my Koni curves don't have the rears as stiffer than the fronts, but I'll review them again tomorrow. And that would make little sense given the fact the front of the car is in fact heavier than the rear, and that solid axle cars don't want a crapload of rear shock typically.
I'll soon have data for the other two corners (the problem is that the dyno shop didn't bother to make it possible to match specific dyno sheets with specific corners, so all I know is that they independently measured the front struts and did the same for the rears, for a total of four dyno plots, two of which I've supplied here. I know which two of the plots are for the front and which two are for the rear, but I won't know which ones are for left versus right). Given the rather large difference between the front and the rear in terms of the way they're built (one's a strut, the other is a shock), I rather doubt they got them mixed up.

It is what it is.


But more basically, we have a round wheel and I swear folks are constantly trying to reinvent that round wheel. My best friends are engineers. Hell Shelly is, and not a fly a by night one. She's an M.E. Went to some small scrub school called Stanford. :) And holds some 60 patents and has started two medical device companies. She's also done things like ground cams for Elgin too. She's well rounded, and I harass her, a lot about being "an engineer" sometimes. One common thread with very technical folks is they get bogged down in minutia.
Yes. But only because it is sometimes important. Yes, sometimes making a small change yields a small change in the result. But sometimes, making a small change yields a large change in the result. You can experiment and eventually figure out from experimentation where the best result is to be found, but if you have interacting components and make changes to one, how are you going to know that you won't have to readjust once you make changes to the other? Now throw in another couple of variables, and the sheer number of possible combinations becomes overwhelming.

For instance, you can change your shocks and optimize them, but if you change your spring rates, then you have to go through the shock optimization thing all over again. If you're looking for the optimum combination and can only do that experimentally, then you'll have to go through a pretty large set of combinations before you really find the one that's optimal, and even then you won't know that it's optimal unless you've tried all possible combinations. It's easier if you can assume that things get progressively worse as you get further away from the optimum point, but even that isn't always the case. Now throw in sway bars, and suddenly things get even more complicated. Now throw in control arm changes. You get the idea.

The alternative, and the one I prefer to use, is to understand the physics behind the suspension, and to create an initial setup on the basis of that understanding. Fine tuning can then proceed from there. If you find that what you experience is substantially different from what the model suggests, then that means your model is wrong in some fundamental way, and thus that your understanding of the physics is similarly wrong (or incomplete) in some fundamental way, and it's then time to start looking at how and why your model is incorrect and fix it. That may require experimentation (it certainly will if you're using the scientific method to zero in on a correct model).


My suspicion is that you have a working model in your head of how the suspension works. You may have painstakingly built it from experimentation, but you have it, and that's what's important. Many/most of us here don't have the benefit of many years of continuous experimentation from which to build a model in our heads. So physics will have to do.

It's not like our approach is invalid or anything. It is, after all, precisely the approach the manufacturers themselves use in building the suspension in the first place.


A big one we hear about are suspension frequencies. Fine. But I don't care, in fact I've kicked the crap out of cars setup by numbers. Until a computer drives the car, that stuff is good to know and might help you starting from stratch. But we aren't starting from scratch.
No, but then, if you're modifying something you don't understand, then you're modifying it blind, as it were, and you have to make certain assumptions about your approach (such as that it will converge on a solution).


And when it comes to competition you have to have a car you can drive. That you can lean on. That you can trust. Personally, I am very opposite of the all the discussion here. I drive the cars, stock. I drive them with alignments and tires, etc. And I make a determination about what it is I think the car needs to do better. Is it loose? Tight? Does it roll too much, or just too fast? Etc, etc. It's troubleshooting, and I'd highly encourage folks to do more of it, and more critical thinking about the problem at hand than thinking so much about theory.
But it all goes hand in hand. If it's too loose, what changes do you make in order to fix it? What exactly informs those changes? You have to start somewhere. That's where the theory comes in. It gives you a place to start. If it's anywhere close to being right, then it'll at least put you in a reasonably good starting place, and the rest will be fine tuning. If it's not, then you really haven't lost anything because, after all, you have to start somewhere no matter what.


I know that won't be popular, I've been down this road before. However, my method works. I've done a lot of cars that have won stuff. While I'm a pretty good driver, I'm not head and shoulders above lots of others. It's not a matter of me being able to cover a screwed up setup with driving talent. See also how whatever classes I run I get cars to the top. Swaybars I produce won G-street, A-Street, B-street, and STX. I didn't win SSR, a Porsche did which I don't work with, but I was 2nd and most of the cars up at the top are cars I setup and were running my setups. I also did the the Mustang that just barely missed winning ESP (to a Subaru on E85 that's lighter, narrower, AWD, and makes more torque too), pretty much from top to bottom.
And how did you know what stiffness range to provide with your sway bars? Pure experience? If so, then that's an expensive way to figure it out. Most of us don't do this stuff professionally. We don't have the opportunity to optimize by trying every possible combination. And seeing how we each have individual needs, we can either take someone else's word for a proper setup meeting our needs, or we can understand the fundamental physics behind the suspension and determine for ourselves what will at least get us in the ballpark of what will meet our needs.

Most people take the former approach, and act on the advice of experts such as yourself. But the problem with that is that even experts have diametrically opposite points of view on much of this. For instance, the fundamental approach you take to setting up a car, even if it's for someone else's needs, is likely to be almost the polar opposite of the approach taken by Terry Fair. Which of you is right? You both achieve fabulous results in your efforts, so both of you clearly have valid real-world points of view. And yet, they're still diametrically opposed.

If both of you are correct in your approach (meaning, the end result each of you would recommend will meet the needs of the hypothetical singular customer we're talking about here), then that means that there are at least two optimum points for that customer in the range of possibilities.

The reason people like those here in this thread like to understand the model is that it allows us to find something approaching the optimal point for ourselves. It empowers us. And it helps that we find it interesting. :)


Your approach is absolutely a good approach. It works. But it's not the only valid one.
 
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Mineral_'01

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Excellent reply. I think you nailed it and expressed our collective thoughts and interests of those who reply in these threads. We like numbers and formulas as it gives us a better understanding of just what we are modifying when we change suspension components around. Plus like you said, it's kind of fun and offers a challenge.

I certainly appreciate posts by Sam and Terry because it takes the guess work out of things and offers a guaranteed outcome from a combination of parts. However sometimes it is nice to know the details and numbers of how and why something works and not just being told I win races with these components because I know what works.
 

Norm Peterson

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Sam and I have been down this road before. Yes, it's possible to "over-analyze" this stuff. It's also possible to misconstrue the learning process that goes into understanding the analysis as "over-analysis". Jason (modernbeat) and maybe Terry excepted, none of us have ever taken a course in suspensions, so these threads essentially become the class where most of us are picking ourselves up by the bootstraps.


I think I'll add to what kc has posted by mentioning if you have some understanding of the physics/engineering you'll have at the very least a better idea which way to tweak things should you discover that whatever the initial choices and settings were that they have left room for improvement for you.

And I feel that this still applies regardless of how the choices were initially determined, whether you slapped on aftermarket kit that came in a box, bought a more carefully considered set of components from Sam, Terry, or possibly others, or bought various components based strictly on your own research and number-crunching.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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About the first two shock plots . . . technical stuff that I hope remains separate from the above post.

If you look at the bump sides (above the zero force mark), you'll find that the rears offer less resistance (force) at any given velocity.

Then I'm going to suggest a few things.

One is that the "excess" rear damping - particularly at the firmer settings - is there to help dial out transient understeer by momentarily transferring more load across the rear axle thereby loosening it (making it run at a larger slip angle). This understeer would be corner entry understeer, where the tail would be rising under at least trailing throttle.

I suspect that load transfer across the front momentarily drops (smaller slip angle, also less understeer on entry) and that too high a front setting probably won't help fix a push on exit (might aggravate it). But I don't have any numbers or anything more "solid" to back that up with than just logic.

At lower settings, say at the "5" traces, the change in force is greater for the front than at the rear between 1 ips and 3 ips. This is probably closer to what you might expect, and probably friendlier in normal street driving. The traces correspond to 1/4 turn increments of adjustment, so that's up to a turn and a quarter. I haven't looked any further into this yet.

Where the bump curves pick up from the rebound traces that meet the Y-axis below zero is where I think the sudden high firmness you feel when going over small smooth unevenness in the road is coming from. Here, Cc (defined as dF/dV) is very high, well above the range for "best ride" and probably above "best grip" even for most of the available aftermarket "big springs".


Norm
 
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claudermilk

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Well, as I recall, you're running different springs than stock, so your rebound settings will be correspondingly higher just from that. Which springs are you running?
Yes, I am running Steeda Sports. Those are supposed to be 200# front and 175# rear. Also a 1" drop in front and 1.5" in rear. So I am coming up with a 65% CD of 31 front and 24 rear. Doesn't seem like a huge difference, but the springs aren't as radically stiffer than some run around here. If I'm understanding this close to correctly, I think my settings arrived at experimentally puts me around the 2.5 ips Norm suggested for the fronts. Cool, looks like maybe I am on the right track.

That is my impression of the stock suspension as well. It really is amazingly good. You see people criticizing it all the time, but really, based on what I've seen thus far, those criticisms are either from people whose driving skills are so high that they'll notice anything that isn't truly optimal, or they're from people who equate suspension rigidity with "good handling".
My initial impression of the stock S197 suspension was similar. That's why I bought the car; it is darn good from the factory for most people. That said, the crowd on this forum doesn't fall under "most people" we are the lunatic fringe. After getting familiar with the car, I did notice how much it moves around and that eventually bugged me enough to start throwing parts at it.

At the risk of being too blunt. You guys way over think this stuff.
LOL, yep. I just go along for the ride on these threads trying to learn stuff, but the engineers around here do tend to run amok. I enjoy reading the threads as I do learn a bit (when the discussion doesn't go so far over my head I can't keep up). I do like to try to get some sense of understanding the "why" behind what I'm trying to do. That at least gives me an educated guess when twiddling dials at the track. BTW, I've been missing your input around here, good to have you back.
 

Mineral_'01

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If you look at the bump sides (above the zero force mark), you'll find that the rears offer less resistance (force) at any given velocity.
I have noticed this as well, but they do have greater rebound force than the fronts which you later explain.

Then I'm going to suggest a few things.

One is that the "excess" rear damping - particularly at the firmer settings - is there to help dial out transient understeer by momentarily transferring more load across the rear axle thereby loosening it (making it run at a larger slip angle). This understeer would be corner entry understeer, where the tail would be rising under at least trailing throttle.

I suspect that load transfer across the front momentarily drops (smaller slip angle, also less understeer on entry) and that too high a front setting probably won't help fix a push on exit (might aggravate it). But I don't have any numbers or anything more "solid" to back that up with than just logic..
I think your logic here makes perfect sense. I had a hard time believing that the graphs were reversed like initially thought. Your theory makes the excessive rebound damping in the rear shocks become clear why they are designed like that. And also why I have read several threads where just the rear shocks were changed from stock to Konis and made a huge difference in responsiveness. (reducing understeer)
 
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kcbrown

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Yes, I am running Steeda Sports. Those are supposed to be 200# front and 175# rear. Also a 1" drop in front and 1.5" in rear. So I am coming up with a 65% CD of 31 front and 24 rear. Doesn't seem like a huge difference, but the springs aren't as radically stiffer than some run around here. If I'm understanding this close to correctly, I think my settings arrived at experimentally puts me around the 2.5 ips Norm suggested for the fronts. Cool, looks like maybe I am on the right track.

If you're consistent enough in your driving, then your lap times will tell the tale as to whether your setup is optimized.


My initial impression of the stock S197 suspension was similar. That's why I bought the car; it is darn good from the factory for most people. That said, the crowd on this forum doesn't fall under "most people" we are the lunatic fringe. After getting familiar with the car, I did notice how much it moves around and that eventually bugged me enough to start throwing parts at it.
It's interesting that you mention that. With these shocks, and yes, even with them dialed in the way I have them, I've noticed that the car tends to follow undulations in the road quite a bit better, which suggests more low-speed rebound damping than the stock shocks had. But I've noticed no additional hardness in the ride (if anything, it's a little better in that respect), and substantially less harshness. Lane divider dots seem to be a little more noticeable than before, but not by a lot. It'll be interesting to see how this car now handles kerbs on the track.



LOL, yep. I just go along for the ride on these threads trying to learn stuff, but the engineers around here do tend to run amok. I enjoy reading the threads as I do learn a bit (when the discussion doesn't go so far over my head I can't keep up). I do like to try to get some sense of understanding the "why" behind what I'm trying to do. That at least gives me an educated guess when twiddling dials at the track. BTW, I've been missing your input around here, good to have you back.
I have to second you here on Sam's return. I really like his relatively minimalistic approach to handling, and it's great to have him back to keep it real. Amusingly, it is the minimalistic approach of his that appeals to the engineer in me. :thumb2:
 

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