Outstanding Throttle Response write up...

mvon919

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Interesting thread for sure, I just tried my car again, I think I have NO lag at all. I have a manual shift, throttle body spacer,k+n CAI,bamachips RACETUNE.
Dont recall ever having a lag, just that total dead spot when trying to blip the throttle between downshifts.Since the racetune it is very responsive, but still have the rise in RPM's when I let off the gas or depress the clutch...I might have to look at this. What I may do though is expose both sides of the tape and put a piece of .020 aluminum on it, this will help spread the load over a wider area and the the tape will not compress because there will be no hardpoints!

ONCE MORE... this has NOTHING TO DO with throttle response. It's just simple mod, that removes the dead throttle pedal travel, before the electrical connectors are in contact with sensitive area.
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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Cool! Glad it is working, and yet another way to do it!

You know it is a shame Ford can't put a set screw on this thing to allow for adjustment. All one would have to do is with the car at operating temperature, simply turn the set screw until you started to increase the engine rpm, and then back it off slightly, and the adjustment would be damn near perfect.

Thx,

Mike
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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I read 162 posts on the subject as well. Good read BUT I drove mine a little bit ago and I don't have the dead movement talked aobut. I wear a size 13 shoe so maybe that is one reason I can't tell. I am going to check the wife's car tomorrow and then open the door and lay on the ground and reach in by hand on mine to see if I can determine any false movement. But so far I am not a candidate for the mod. Besides the Pro Racer packae I have a Bamachips (Doug) base tune file and he removes the throttle "lag" I think the mod in our discussion here, removes the pedal free travel or "pedal lag", which I do not appear to have.

Sheyet-fahr! Now it is over 300 posts and climbing.

That place is definitely the "Jerry Springer" of all mustang forums!!!:roflmao:

Mike
 
T

tube

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Hi guys, I'm here!

I did some more experimentation on my 06 explorer that also has DBW with the same assembly as the Mustang, but with no lag.

If you hold the pedal down a quarter inch or so, and start the engine, it will not rev up, or affect the idle.

The ECU is constantly calibrating the throttle I'm assuming, so it takes the resistance at start up to be the 0 point on the throttle, and anything more than that becomes + throttle, and if the resistance goes negative at all (lets say you held the throttle down slightly and started the car) it simply re calibrates to a new 0 point.
 

GIG4FUN

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Hi guys, I'm here!

I did some more experimentation on my 06 explorer that also has DBW with the same assembly as the Mustang, but with no lag.

If you hold the pedal down a quarter inch or so, and start the engine, it will not rev up, or affect the idle.

The ECU is constantly calibrating the throttle I'm assuming, so it takes the resistance at start up to be the 0 point on the throttle, and anything more than that becomes + throttle, and if the resistance goes negative at all (lets say you held the throttle down slightly and started the car) it simply re calibrates to a new 0 point.


"WELCOME" :clap:

I am glad you made it over here.
 

tom281

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Welcome to the site......

This is an interesting mod for sure, because there has to be tolerances on those contacts that vary from vehicle to vehicle. My car honestly has ZERO dead space; as soon as you put enough pressure on the pedal to move it, the rpms start to raise. I even went out and tried it again LOL but it was the same. For you guys that do have dead space, good luck with the mod! :thumb:
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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Hi guys, I'm here!

I did some more experimentation on my 06 explorer that also has DBW with the same assembly as the Mustang, but with no lag.

If you hold the pedal down a quarter inch or so, and start the engine, it will not rev up, or affect the idle.

The ECU is constantly calibrating the throttle I'm assuming, so it takes the resistance at start up to be the 0 point on the throttle, and anything more than that becomes + throttle, and if the resistance goes negative at all (lets say you held the throttle down slightly and started the car) it simply re calibrates to a new 0 point.

Welcome aboard and I personally thank you for finding this gem and helping me get rid of my drive by wire issues!

Excellent finding!

Mike
 

mvon919

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Welcome Tube. We need more stuff like this. Great finding, but after opening my assy, I suggest not bending the brushes. The way I did it works the best...
 

sbgt05

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Hi All,
I've been an outside visitor for awhile but I just joined. This is a great place. I'm usually at the LegendLimeRegistry.
As with the bunch of folks over at MF and also here, I was really excited about Tube's accelerator mod and I wanted to see it for myself. I have an '05 GT manual with a build date of May 2005. The mods are simple bolt-ons, C&L CAI, GT500 TB, JBA shorties, and Brenspeed tune and I do not a have a "dead pedal" issue. I measured at 1/8" and 1/4" depression and I'm getting revs. However, I still wanted to see if I was one of the lucky ones where the connector brush tines lined up at the edge of the gold/carbon resistor area. So I tried it this afternoon

To my surprise, I have a Rev 4 pedal and not a Rev 1. Attached is a picture of the Rev 4 and also Tube's picture as well. In comparison, Tube's pic shows the brush tines moving across from the gold/resistor area to the plain resistor. As I understood it, the tines moving along this gold/resistor area is the reason for the "dead pedal" effect because the resistivity of the gold/resistor area does not change. Only when the tines move along the plain resistor that the change in resistivity is registered as pedal movement. Now if you take a look at the Rev 4 pedal assembly, the wear patterns of the tines are all along areas that are uniform and have no edges or transitions. I could not see any wear patterns on the plain gold pads.( I apologize for the bad picture). I think Ford tried to fix this issue with Rev 4. The wear patterns stop at a very noticeable distance away from the gold pad edges. I don't think the tines are suppose to even make contact with the gold pads. If you zoom in, you can see some faint patterns getting close to the gold pads on the side where it's marked "PVI england" but I don't know if it was me removing the cover and making the scratch. For these reasons, I did not perform the mod and re-assembled the pedal.

Over at MF, when adidasUNT8 tried this, he had some problems and he had a Rev 4 assembly. I think what happened was he bent the tines to the point where they ended up touching the bare gold pads and this may not be a good thing but I'm not 100% certain because I don't understand the electronics and calibration went enough.

Bottom line: I believe Tube's modification will help those with the tolerance and variation issue in the Rev 1 assembly. However, I'm not so sure that this mod will be as beneficial (it may be even harmful) for those with the Rev 4 assembly. I would love it if someone finds a way and then I can retract this statement and implement the mod.

Sorry for the long write-up. I hope it helps and again this is my two cents.

Regards,
Albert
 

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sbgt05

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Hi All,
I've been an outside visitor for awhile but I just joined. This is a great place. I'm usually at the LegendLimeRegistry.
As with the bunch of folks over at MF and also here, I was really excited about Tube's accelerator mod and I wanted to see it for myself. I have an '05 GT manual with a build date of May 2005. The mods are simple bolt-ons, C&L CAI, GT500 TB, JBA shorties, and Brenspeed tune and I do not a have a "dead pedal" issue. I measured at 1/8" and 1/4" depression and I'm getting revs. However, I still wanted to see if I was one of the lucky ones where the connector brush tines lined up at the edge of the gold/carbon resistor area. So I tried it this afternoon

To my surprise, I have a Rev 4 pedal and not a Rev 1. Attached is a picture of the Rev 4 and also Tube's picture as well. In comparison, Tube's pic shows the brush tines moving across from the gold/resistor area to the plain resistor. As I understood it, the tines moving along this gold/resistor area is the reason for the "dead pedal" effect because the resistivity of the gold/resistor area does not change. Only when the tines move along the plain resistor that the change in resistivity is registered as pedal movement. Now if you take a look at the Rev 4 pedal assembly, the wear patterns of the tines are all along areas that are uniform and have no edges or transitions. I could not see any wear patterns on the plain gold pads.( I apologize for the bad picture). I think Ford tried to fix this issue with Rev 4. The wear patterns stop at a very noticeable distance away from the gold pad edges. I don't think the tines are suppose to even make contact with the gold pads. If you zoom in, you can see some faint patterns getting close to the gold pads on the side where it's marked "PVI england" but I don't know if it was me removing the cover and making the scratch. For these reasons, I did not perform the mod and re-assembled the pedal.

Over at MF, when adidasUNT8 tried this, he had some problems and he had a Rev 4 assembly. I think what happened was he bent the tines to the point where they ended up touching the bare gold pads and this may not be a good thing but I'm not 100% certain because I don't understand the electronics and calibration went enough.

Bottom line: I believe Tube's modification will help those with the tolerance and variation issue in the Rev 1 assembly. However, I'm not so sure that this mod will be as beneficial (it may be even harmful) for those with the Rev 4 assembly. I would love it if someone finds a way and then I can retract this statement and implement the mod.

Sorry for the long write-up. I hope it helps and again this is my two cents.

Regards,
Albert
 

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stlwagon

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Outstanding bunch of work... FYI, for those who remove the pedal, the torque specs on the 3 nuts is 80 lb-in.
 

mvon919

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That REV 4 says England. Nothing good never came from England. And Iraq and South Africa.... the Asian countries... and such.

I'm having a date with Ms Teen SC today. Wish me luck. My wife's off town ;)
 

ZmanM3

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Very interesting mod. If I do it I think I am going to use the tape method.
 

94tbird

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ya if it doesnt work, peel the tape off.
 

94tbird

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wanna send me the left over tape mike? im too lazy to go to store. hell you should cut pieces and sell em for $1.50 lol
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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wanna send me the left over tape mike? im too lazy to go to store. hell you should cut pieces and sell em for $1.50 lol

LOL for sure!!!

I was thinking today that there would be a run on this 3M tape at Wally World!!:clap:

I had actually bought the double sided tape to glue on our "toll-tags" we use here in N. Texas. The sun fries them off with their velcro attachments, so I thought, lets see what this double sided tape will do.

As someone mentioned on censored.com, once you put this shit down it is very difficult for it to either come off or get it off. They said Ford uses it to attach spoilers and shaker hoods!:shock:

BTW, everyone knows what to do if your throttle were to stick, right???

Turn the ignition key to OFF but don't lock the steering wheel!!!

Hope this helps.

Mike
 

mvon919

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Hey, I took the pedal assy apart and if you're putting that tape into that shaft it's good for few days... put it INSIDE, under the right side cover (not the electrical connector side) and it'll last. Open up the mech-side cover and you'll see what I mean. Fuk, I should had my camera with me earlier today...
 

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