preparing the brakes for track day

[13726548]

So I noticed that whenever I'm trying to slow the car down quickly from 60+ mph, I hear a grinding noise from the brakes. And during the last track day, the steering wheel was vibrating while slowing down as if the rotors were warped.
There is no such noise or vibration during normal street driving. They complain only when I elevate speeds/require more braking than usual.

Here is what the rotors look like as they sit:

Should I get new rotors before they give out on me at the track? And do I need to buy new ones if I intend to use more aggressive (Hawk) pads?

 

[Sky Render]

Your rotors are most likely warped. Get them turned or replace them. I wouldn't risk using them on a track.

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[13726548]

Your rotors are most likely warped. Get them turned or replace them. I wouldn't risk using them on a track.

Sent from my DROID2 Global using tapa-whatzit-thing

Wouldn't OEM rotors just warp again once I put them through track abuse?
What are my options as for aftermarket rotors?

 

[Random Asshole]

cut your rotors. done.

 

[Zexford]

Get new rotors, last thing you want is a rotor to disintegrate when you hit the brakes at 120mph.

 

[Thinkkker]

What pads are you running?

I ask because with stock pads, I have gone metal to metal in the rear in a day at the track *your results may vary*. But, with grinding, new rotors and pads are a easy and fairly cheap fix.

 

[13726548]

What pads are you running?

I ask because with stock pads, I have gone metal to metal in the rear in a day at the track *your results may vary*. But, with grinding, new rotors and pads are a easy and fairly cheap fix.

I'm running stock pads.
I've already included new pads in the budget but it looks like I will have to get the rotors turned at the very least.

 

[JAJ]

I hate to go against the flow, but your rotors look ok to me. Most street pads will overheat and start to shudder when they get used at the track. It's caused by pad material melting onto the face of the rotor. As they cool down, the melted material gets scrubbed off and the shuddering stops.

If the brakes are fine on the street, then just get some proper track pads for the track and the problem will either be reduced or gone altogether.

 

[kevinatfms]

you could look into the 13" 2012 gt rotors and caliper brackets? it add quite a bit of stopping force for quite cheap....

there is a thread on this somewhere around here. just get 2 2012 gt rotors and 2 gt calipers from a 2012. it will reuse the stock caliper. they go from a 12" to a 13" rotor could help you.

 

[Sky Render]

I hate to go against the flow, but your rotors look ok to me. Most street pads will overheat and start to shudder when they get used at the track. It's caused by pad material melting onto the face of the rotor. As they cool down, the melted material gets scrubbed off and the shuddering stops.

If the brakes are fine on the street, then just get some proper track pads for the track and the problem will either be reduced or gone altogether.

You can't see warping on rotors.

Sent from my DROID2 Global using tapa-whatzit-thing

 

[kevinatfms]

i would say warped rotors for sure, taking material off them may make them true but in the end your still taking off material from a friction surface.

i would buy new rotors instead of machining them.

 

[kevinatfms]

oh and forgot to add....you cannot see a warped rotor but you can see the heat streaks in those photos. the build up in through the center in those photos. it appears as a darker area on the face.

 

[SilentScope]

track as in drag or TRACK track?

I have Hawk HPS and slotted/drilled/dimpled/double drilled/super slotted/ebay rotors. They are AWESOME until they get too hot.

Today at our Auto-X run at PBIR i kept running out of brakes near the end of the run because it was a longer setup than usual. Mostly because i over-used them.

You need to cut those or get new ones.

 

[Stangmeister9]

cost vs. safety should not be a barganing issue. swap out your rotors for some oem rotors they will work just fine. as noted by someone else, you cant see warped rotors, much less via a picture on a forum.

 

[SilentScope]

Yeah we talking about millimeters. Can't see that shit

 

[BSell]

Here is what the rotors look like as they sit:

Should I get new rotors before they give out on me at the track? And do I need to buy new ones if I intend to use more aggressive (Hawk) pads?

Are those twin rows of circley things digital artifacts or do they exist in person? They look like hot spots. If they are there, cutting the rotors only smooths the surface and these things are like warts, they have roots that go deep. So the next time you get on the brakes hard, up they pop!

I suggest getting your final brake set-up now. No more skimping or piecing together temp solutions. Get the rotors and pads that will live up to your intended use and be done with it.

Brian

 

[13726548]

Are those twin rows of circley things digital artifacts or do they exist in person? They look like hot spots. If they are there, cutting the rotors only smooths the surface and these things are like warts, they have roots that go deep. So the next time you get on the brakes hard, up they pop!

I suggest getting your final brake set-up now. No more skimping or piecing together temp solutions. Get the rotors and pads that will live up to your intended use and be done with it.

Brian

No they're not digital artifacts. As someone else mentioned they are hotspots from the last track day. And when I say track, I mean Road Atlanta - not the drag strip.

So what pads would ya'll recommend? I tried doing a search but every driver has a different answer. Some say the Hawk HT-10 would be overkill on street tires, and others say Hawk HP+ do not suffice. And the consensus is that Carbotecs do not last as long as Hawks, while EBC cannot compete with the other two brands.

 

[SilentScope]

Carbotecs make A LOT of brake dust

 

[Sleeper_08]

I am using Carbotech pads, XP10 front and rear and they are terrific.

Yes they do dust a little and squeal like a stuck pig on the street but on the track they are great and that is what counts.

The set in my car right now have 5 track days on them and the pads and rotors, which are stock front and rear, look fine.

In addition I'm running the Brembo kit and brake cooling on the front with ATE Super Blue/Typ 200 fluid.

I am learning to not use my brakes as much which helps with wear but per this video am not taking it easy on the track;

http://www.youtube.com/user/frederickmith#p/a/u/0/PYFs929LFKs

 

[kevinatfms]

i have been using yellow stuff for track days while i use ebc green stuff for my street driving. most people dont use ebc but since i have the PBR "corvette style" calipers they were a cheap and effective track/street pad setup and so far have worked great.