preparing the brakes for track day

SilentScope

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Wanna use your brakes less at the track? Attach them to a shift light on the dash so u can see how much you use the brakes. Try to have that light come on as little as possible and you'll be golden.
 

Vapour Trails

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It's 2011 and people still think rotors swap. They don't. They get uneven deposits on them.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

I hate to go against the flow, but your rotors look ok to me. Most street pads will overheat and start to shudder when they get used at the track. It's caused by pad material melting onto the face of the rotor. As they cool down, the melted material gets scrubbed off and the shuddering stops.

If the brakes are fine on the street, then just get some proper track pads for the track and the problem will either be reduced or gone altogether.

BINGO!
 
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kevinatfms

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i think most people refer to the uneven deposits as "rotor warp" these days. yes you are correct as they are not actually warped but have an uneven layer of pad friction deposit.

in the end, i even still call them warped rotors.
 

DPE

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For the price on somewhere like newtakeoff.com, no reason not to get new rotors. I've swapped back and forth from OEM to Carbotech a couple times on my OEMs with no issues, so that's doable. Or you could turn those OEMs and just run them as your 'street' rotors and have new pads and rotors for the track. Also, if you even set tire on a road course on stock pads, and had any fun at all, that indicates that you are relatively new to this game; get a set of Carbotechs as they are rotor-friendlier and will get you through many track days. Not as many as Hawk, but I just like them better and sadly am not on track enough to worry about the longevity.

The OEM brakes have surprised me; they are relatively small, but the front rotors are quite thick and with the proper additions simply work on track. The setup on my 2010 includes Carbotech XP10s up front and XP8s rear, Motul RBF600 fluid (short of Castrol SRF, it's just better than everything else. ATE Blue is ok, but Motul is the best 'affordable' fluid IMO), and a Boss airdam with FRPP brake cooling ducts. I've experienced zero fade, and in fact zero brake issues. Now, for the sake of wheel bearing and caliper longevity I'll eventually upgrade to GT500 Brembos, but where I once thought that would be mandatory I'm seeing that it isn't required.

Anyway, good luck with it!
 

pcdrj

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i think most people refer to the uneven deposits as "rotor warp" these days. yes you are correct as they are not actually warped but have an uneven layer of pad friction deposit.

in the end, i even still call them warped rotors.

I gave up. Way too much misinformation floating around.

To the OP, do a little search on the topic by people like SoundGuyDave. Plenty of good info available.
 

13726548

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I gave up. Way too much misinformation floating around.

To the OP, do a little search on the topic by people like SoundGuyDave. Plenty of good info available.

Can you explain why you believe this is misinformation? The Stoptech article makes logical sense to me..
 

kevinatfms

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the metal does not fatigue and warp in trueness. the deposit makes the rotor surface uneven which can be thought as the metal is actually warped. you can un-warp a rotor by taking your time to scrub the brakes over time and remove the uneven deposits. its easier to machine them down to remove the layer but then you are really taking material off the rotors.
as pcdjr said above its soo much information that its confusing to most.
 

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