Finally installed the new suspension. Still have the dreaded pop.

Tungsten06

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I received my new strut mounts on Friday so I decided that was a good time to go ahead an start putting in the new suspension. I wanted to change the strut mounts because of the pop/clunk I've been having that is notorious in our cars. And since you have to remove the struts and springs, I thought it would be a perfect time to replace them. In the past few months I've grown increasingly tired of the bounciness of the stock setup.

The parts I chose were the GT500 "C" strut mounts, Koni STR.T shocks and struts and Vogtland lowering springs (1.2" drop f/r).

Just a few thoughts on the install since this was my first time ever doing suspension work. Its not very difficult at all, just time consuming. I did it with a good size collection of hand tools, but air tools are your friend. Secondly, you can do this without a spring compressor (like I did), but I would NOT recommend it if your new to this like me. Just buy the spring compressor. When you see statements that these springs store a lot of energy, they aren't kidding. One small slip and they can release all at once. I was lucky and was able to avoid getting nailed. If you have a convertible, the stock subframes are going to have to be removed. If anyone wants me to write up how to do the swap, I will be happy to.

Now, without further hesitation, here she is (crappy pics):

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It lowered the rear a little more than I would like, but I was advised that convertibles typically will typically drop about 1/4" more in the rear. I didn't take measurements before, but using a tape measure and measuring from the ground to the center of the wheel well I got the following measurements after the install:

Driver side front: 27 5/8"
Driver side rear: 28.5"
Passenger side front: 27 3/4"
Passenger side rear: 28"

I dont know why there is a half inch difference in the back. The springs were positioned on the spring perch the in the same manner the stock ones were installed. Any ideas? I know some cars aren't even with the stock equipment, so is this something I should go back and take a look at? Will the springs settle a little more in a week or so?

As for the ride, night and day. Not harsh, but you definitely feel more of the road. Body roll, nose dive and squat are hardly noticeable. A great improvement over the bouncy stock suspension. So far no clearance issues.

Unfortunately, the new mounts didn't seem to resolve the clunk/pop noise I have coming from the front of the car going over small bumps. I've seen that the strut mounts are often the cause, but where do I start looking since the new ones didn't resolve the issue? Did I not tighten something down enough?
 

allinon72

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The popping is often attributed to the front sway bar end link bolts, which come loose. However, I replaced my end links with a new design that allows for more torque to be applied to the bolts, and I STILL have clunking in my right front.
 

Embalmer

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It has been a long time since I resolved my popping sound due to the front upper mounts being defective. Long story short, I had popping from day 1 at 2.4 miles and my dealership replaced the upper mounts with the GT 500 ones. The popping sound did not go away until Ford released a redesigned durometer bushing in a new mount about 6 months later. The new mounts you installed may still be the old design, possibly.
 

MUSTANG16

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The parts I chose were the GT500 "C" strut mounts, Koni STR.T shocks and struts and Vogtland lowering springs (1.2" drop f/r).

I used the M-18183-C GT500 mounts w/ the Koni STR.T s/s, but I used Roush springs. No noise whatsoever. I'm now going to take the mounts off and put on J&M plates because I have too much - camber according to many. -1.4 -1.3
 

Tungsten06

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It has been a long time since I resolved my popping sound due to the front upper mounts being defective. Long story short, I had popping from day 1 at 2.4 miles and my dealership replaced the upper mounts with the GT 500 ones. The popping sound did not go away until Ford released a redesigned durometer bushing in a new mount about 6 months later. The new mounts you installed may still be the old design, possibly.

The new GT500 mounts I put in are supposed to have the better bushing. I forgot to mention the strut mounts I pulled out were actually part number 18183-A. So I think at some point before I bought the car the original mounts were replaced once.
 

gil_t2

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I had a poping sound on my 09 when i went over ant kind of bump. It was the main sway bar bushings. The raised locating rib on the sway bar was rubbing the sway bar mounting sureface. So i bought new poly bushings from Jegs, There were two styles, A & B. I think i used the B style.
 

Tungsten06

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Guys, I have a new problem and need a little advice.

I took the car in to get an alignment today and one side went back in to spec with no issues. Not so lucky with the other side. Long story short, there was apparently a miscommunication and their solution was to start grinding out the bolt holes that hold the strut to the spindle.

I immediately stopped them and didn't end up paying anything, but do I need to worry about this strut now? I'm not sure if I need to push for them to pay to replace it.
 

Bingo

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My popping sound has not been resolved by replacing the upper strut mounts (I used Steeda HD adjustable). I, too, believe it's a swaybar link, but have been too lazy to investigate further.

Does anyone know if a company makes an upgraded swaybar link that is not adjustable? Steeda's adjustable swaybar link: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-front-heavy-duty-endlinks-for-ford-mustang.html

P.s. what wheels are those, Tungsten?
 

Tungsten06

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My popping sound has not been resolved by replacing the upper strut mounts (I used Steeda HD adjustable). I, too, believe it's a swaybar link, but have been too lazy to investigate further.

Does anyone know if a company makes an upgraded swaybar link that is not adjustable? Steeda's adjustable swaybar link: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-front-heavy-duty-endlinks-for-ford-mustang.html

P.s. what wheels are those, Tungsten?

They are 18x9 ASA AR1 wheels. Waketek516 inspired me to get them since they looked so good on his car.

If I ever get the alignment thing worked out Im going to make sure everything is tight. Keep me posted if you find some different endlinks. I am determined to fix this clunking.
 

Tungsten06

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I'm going to revive this thread since I'm still having an issue with the clunk on the front driver side. I haven't replaced the bushings yet as suggested because I've been slowly fixing other things on the car over the past few months but I was wondering if this could possibly be a ball joint problem?

I've replaced the end links and put on new nuts and red locktite. When I was putting on new brake pads I noticed the ball joint had a tear in the rubber boot. Did a little research and it seems the ball joints are yet another common problem on these cars. I'm also experiencing a clicking when turning with the wheel turned all the way. Sounds almost like some bad CV joints I've heard before.

It probably needs to be replaced regardless. Is that something I can do at home? I don't have a press, but didn't know if there was a special tool I could buy or rent to do it.
 

skwerl

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I removed my front sway bar several months ago for drag racing purposes. You can try unbolting yours from the sway bar end links and seeing if the noise goes away. I've heard of many people unbolting the ends for drag racing but I would imagine you might need to secure the bar somehow to keep it from swinging down and hitting something.

How are your tie rod ends? My passenger side is just slightly worn, I can hear it clunk when I back out of the drive and hit the gutter with the wheel turned all the way. I only have 25K miles on the car.
 

28ONE

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It lowered the rear a little more than I would like, but I was advised that convertibles typically will typically drop about 1/4" more in the rear. I didn't take measurements before, but using a tape measure and measuring from the ground to the center of the wheel well I got the following measurements after the install:

Driver side front: 27 5/8"
Driver side rear: 28.5"
Passenger side front: 27 3/4"
Passenger side rear: 28"

I dont know why there is a half inch difference in the back. The springs were positioned on the spring perch the in the same manner the stock ones were installed. Any ideas? I know some cars aren't even with the stock equipment, so is this something I should go back and take a look at? Will the springs settle a little more in a week or so?
My Driver's side measure are about 1/4" lower then the passenger side. I've asked other members to check their measurements and for the most part, we all were off. I guess that's just the way it is. As for the popping, ended up being me end-links.
 

Tungsten06

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I removed my front sway bar several months ago for drag racing purposes. You can try unbolting yours from the sway bar end links and seeing if the noise goes away. I've heard of many people unbolting the ends for drag racing but I would imagine you might need to secure the bar somehow to keep it from swinging down and hitting something.

How are your tie rod ends? My passenger side is just slightly worn, I can hear it clunk when I back out of the drive and hit the gutter with the wheel turned all the way. I only have 25K miles on the car.

In my last post I said ball joint, but I meant tie rod. Thats what has a hole in the boot. I haven't checked to see if they're loose or bent. Don't really know how, but I'll do a search and see what I can find.

My Driver's side measure are about 1/4" lower then the passenger side. I've asked other members to check their measurements and for the most part, we all were off. I guess that's just the way it is. As for the popping, ended up being me end-links.

Thats reassuring. Since it was my first suspension job I was worried I did something incorrectly to make it sit uneven. But, everything appears to have evened out some more over time.
 

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