'11/'12 and '13 block differences

[stang910]

I'm in the process of building a Boss shortblock and I've run into a few snags along the way that has kept me from finishing my build. I hope this helps someone that may be planning a build in the future. I really wish I knew of these differences from the beginning as it would have saved me lots of time.

The first issue I came across was the plug and dowel kit that came with the new block. The expansion plug that goes in the front of the block next to the water pump came the wrong size. Ford sent me a 0.526" plug and I needed something closer to 0.563" so I ordered Dorman part# 555-092 to fix this issue.

Next was the main bolts. Ford sends the block out with all bolts. The oil pickup tube needs a studded bolt to mount to so plan on ordering one of these with your new block. I've got part# BR3Z-6345-A on order and I'm hoping it's the right one.

My latest issue is the head bolts. I went to bolt down my heads today with the Boss head changing kit and the bolts are completely wrong. I guess for '13 Ford redesigned the head bolts to a smaller and shorter design. Gonna have to make another phone call in the morning to get this one figured out.

If I run into any other problems along the way I'll update this thread.

 

[BAKnBLK2010]

There have been a lot of changes along the way. My car for example is a Feb. 2012 build date and it has different pistons than the 2011 and early build 2012's. I'm working with 19COBRA93 to try and find out if I have the new 2013 pistons or something similar.

 

[stang910]

I'm sure there's been alot of changes along the way, but since Ford has discontinued the 11/12 block I want it to be known that if you start over with a new 13 block these parts need to be ordered just to make it work. I'm sure the expansion plug will get taken care of after a few people complain about it. It's been a headache for me since I want to get this car back together. Just wanted to make people aware of the issues I've run into.

 

[riored4v]

There have been a lot of changes along the way. My car for example is a Feb. 2012 build date and it has different pistons than the 2011 and early build 2012's. I'm working with 19COBRA93 to try and find out if I have the new 2013 pistons or something similar.

Interesting. I have a 2/12 date on mine as well. Curious about this as well.

 

[Drkmrkiv]

Is build date on the motor different than the date on the vin? If so, where do I find it? Thanks for the info OP. I am planning on throwing some boss heads on my coyote blockat some point.

 

[DSargent09]

Why did they discontinue the 11/12 block? I am also interested in the piston thing...mine was built 01/12 I believe

 

[Rob72]

Why did they discontinue the 11/12 block? I am also interested in the piston thing...mine was built 01/12 I believe

Got rid of the piston jets in the block and put a high temp coating on the pistons.

 

[DSargent09]

Also question for the OP. Did you blow your original motor, or just building a beef'd up one to replace it? I really want to have my motor pulled out, block sleeved and have an entire forged rotating assembly put in. I have considered buying a block and building myself is this what you are doing? What is your total cost so far....

 

[stang910]

Also question for the OP. Did you blow your original motor, or just building a beef'd up one to replace it? I really want to have my motor pulled out, block sleeved and have an entire forged rotating assembly put in. I have considered buying a block and building myself is this what you are doing? What is your total cost so far....

I had a bent rod that I didn't catch until it was too late. It ended up putting a window in my block. I also had 3 ringlands that had cracks in them. Just so nobody is confused the car was boosted when it let go. As far as costs, I have around $2700 in it. I purchased a Boss crank, rods, pistons, bearings, and valve springs, a new block and a few gaskets.

 

[wproctor411]

Thanks for the info and leg work. Looking to do the same here. I just purchased a rotating assembly and will be ordering a 2013 block soon. I plan on rebuilding the 11' later on, which works fine but it's not comforting to hear about these design changes and I want to run with boost at 16-18 psi.
Keep us updated.

 

[VTXFrank]

Also question for the OP. Did you blow your original motor, or just building a beef'd up one to replace it? I really want to have my motor pulled out, block sleeved and have an entire forged rotating assembly put in. I have considered buying a block and building myself is this what you are doing? What is your total cost so far....

IIRC, you're not going to be able to sleeve a stock Coyote block. The walls are too thin and Ford used an electrical coating process to sleeve it when they're built that puts a very thin layer of iron on the cylinder walls. If you sleeve it, you will lose cubes.

 

[lostsoul]

Got rid of the piston jets in the block and put a high temp coating on the pistons.

thats why I'm trying to find which one is better for boooosted apps? or both the same. Like I said before its funny they added oils squirters for the new gt500 but take it away for the GTs.. do that mean the new GTs cant hale as much boost.. sooo confusing

 

[spd2stang]

2/12 build here as well. Interested to see if i even have the cooling jets or different pistons.

 

[Rob72]

thats why I'm trying to find which one is better for boooosted apps? or both the same. Like I said before its funny they added oils squirters for the new gt500 but take it away for the GTs.. do that mean the new GTs cant hale as much boost.. sooo confusing

My guess is the squirters would be best for boost.

 

[captdistraction]

are the coyote blocks plasma coated? I thought the liners were iron and pressed in.

 

[Grimace427]

are the coyote blocks plasma coated? I thought the liners were iron and pressed in.

The 5.0 uses a pressed in iron sleeve. The Aluminum 5.4 and 5.8 used Plasma Transferred Wire Arc (PTWA) cylinder bores.

 

[19COBRA93]

IIRC, you're not going to be able to sleeve a stock Coyote block. The walls are too thin and Ford used an electrical coating process to sleeve it when they're built that puts a very thin layer of iron on the cylinder walls. If you sleeve it, you will lose cubes.

Coyotes are sleeved. They're just thin sleeves. Only the GT500 uses the plasma bores.

are the coyote blocks plasma coated? I thought the liners were iron and pressed in.

The 5.0 uses a pressed in iron sleeve. The Aluminum 5.4 and 5.8 used Plasma Transferred Wire Arc (PTWA) cylinder bores.

This.

Next was the main bolts. Ford sends the block out with all bolts. The oil pickup tube needs a studded bolt to mount to so plan on ordering one of these with your new block. I've got part# BR3Z-6345-A on order and I'm hoping it's the right one.

My latest issue is the head bolts. I went to bolt down my heads today with the Boss head changing kit and the bolts are completely wrong. I guess for '13 Ford redesigned the head bolts to a smaller and shorter design. Gonna have to make another phone call in the morning to get this one figured out.

If I run into any other problems along the way I'll update this thread.

The bolts that come in the new block have already been torqued. You'll probably want to order a whole new set. They torque them down to spec when machining the block.

I recently built a '13 block and ran into the same issues as the OP. The 11/12 and all prior modular blocks have the head bolts thread deep into the block. The '13 block is much like the old pushrod blocks where the head bolt threads are just below the deck surface. Head bolt torque spec's are slightly different as well (18lb/ft, then a 180 degree stretch).

Here are the two head bolts:

 

[smoken1986]

There have been a lot of changes along the way. My car for example is a Feb. 2012 build date and it has different pistons than the 2011 and early build 2012's. I'm working with 19COBRA93 to try and find out if I have the new 2013 pistons or something similar.

Wondering about this as well, I have a build date of 1/12. Is one really better then the other?

 

[BAKnBLK2010]

Wondering about this as well, I have a build date of 1/12. Is one really better then the other?

Don't really know yet. 19COBRA93 works for a Ford dealer in parts and he has a piston ordered for my build date to compare to the older piston. The 2013 piston's are definately better as they are heat treated and have the gas relief groove made into them. I'm hoping my car has the 2013 pistons.

 

[DSargent09]

This is an awesome thread. So you can or can not make the coyote block stronger....11-12...