Unfortunate Build thread

[blackgt87]

Boss longblock is 12 grand.

Like I said before, get an aluminator. It has heads already on it, boss valve springs, all assembled, and its a "good" price. At least for what you get it is.

 

[captdistraction]

Boss longblock is 12 grand.

Like I said before, get an aluminator. It has heads already on it, boss valve springs, all assembled, and its a "good" price. At least for what you get it is.

what do you guys think about the rotating assembly possibly weighing more on the aluminator? Think it would yield a noteable difference in rev-friendliness?

I do have a line on a Boss302R crate for significantly less than the quoted number, but still significantly more than I can get an aluminator for.

 

[Grimace427]

what do you guys think about the rotating assembly possibly weighing more on the aluminator? Think it would yield a noteable difference in rev-friendliness?

I do have a line on a Boss302R crate for significantly less than the quoted number, but still significantly more than I can get an aluminator for.

Could that increase in rotating mass be offset by a lighter clutch/flywheel assembly? Is the increase significant enough to notice?

 

[captdistraction]

Could that increase in rotating mass be offset by a lighter clutch/flywheel assembly? Is the increase significant enough to notice?

I don't know. I'm already running a Mcleod RX, I guess I could lighten the flywheel, but its one less thing to worry about if I don't have to.

 

[JAJ]

Someone posted a while ago about getting an Aluminator and they said it had an 8,000 RPM red line. I'm not sure I'd run up there, but it's probably as strong as a Boss. I suspect part of the higher cost of the Boss engine is that it's certified to be street legal where the Aluminator isn't, even if the Aluminator performance is more or less the same as any other Coyote when it's plugged into a stock ECU with a stock tune.

 

[BL00DSH0T]

Oh lord! WTF are you talking about "not true at all??"

Trusting a dyno only is foolish. Most of the REPUTABLE tuners will request a datalog to finesse the dyno tune file. If not..........run Forrestt RUN!!!!!!!

I can see you know NOTHING about dyno tuning.
Not only is it better to dyno tune it is safer.
Might want to read up dynos before you give bad info.
I have used mail order tunes and always had them checked on the dyno.
After a dyno tune it is done.


OP....I also agree on the Boss Long Block.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

I can see you know NOTHING about dyno tuning.
Not only is it better to dyno tune it is safer.
Might want to read up dynos before you give bad info.
I have used mail order tunes and always had them checked on the dyno.
After a dyno tune it is done.


OP....I also agree on the Boss Long Block.

Good thing the majority of the members are smart enough to know your posts are full of FAIL...

I'm certainly not going to waste any more time responding to such foolery.

 

[captdistraction]

Someone posted a while ago about getting an Aluminator and they said it had an 8,000 RPM red line. I'm not sure I'd run up there, but it's probably as strong as a Boss. I suspect part of the higher cost of the Boss engine is that it's certified to be street legal where the Aluminator isn't, even if the Aluminator performance is more or less the same as any other Coyote when it's plugged into a stock ECU with a stock tune.

According to the FR website, they list 7k for the Alum-NA motor. The springs on the valves have been upgraded to Boss parts, but the valves themselves are standard coyote fair. The cams and heads are also standard coyote. The bottom end is definitely stronger, but I'm not sure which would fit my need best. I'd like to continue to run a boss manifold, as the powerband and behavior.

Does anyone know if the engines include the exhaust manifolds? I'm guessing no on the o2 sensors since that's included in the control pack.

The differential for me between the two motor options is $1600. Doesn't seem like a lot, but its a lot of money to me.

 

[BL00DSH0T]

Good thing the majority of the members are smart enough to know your posts are full of FAIL...

I'm certainly not going to waste any more time responding to such foolery.

If you want to start another thread on dyno tuning vs email tunes go ahead instead of adding your ignorance here. As for the majority you the only one supporting your misinformation.

Sorry for being off topic OP.

 

[TexasKyle]

The differential for me between the two motor options is $1600. Doesn't seem like a lot, but its a lot of money to me.

$1600 is a lot of money regardless of how much someone has laying around. If you can't conceive of needing the extra $1600 worth on the Boss, then do what you feel comfortable with. Having your car down sucks as I and many on here know. Getting it back up as quickly as you can while doing what's best in the long run is what matters. I think either solution will do you fine.

If you want to start another thread on dyno tuning vs email tunes go ahead instead of adding your ignorance here. As for the majority you the only one supporting your misinformation.

Sorry for being off topic OP.

You can start another thread, but it will turn into a flame fest and you will probably get your feelings hurt. Carry on with it though if you feel the need to be ostracized

 

[Scrape]

After reading this thread, all I can say is ouch! That hurts big time!

 

[wbt]

I can see you know NOTHING about dyno tuning.
Not only is it better to dyno tune it is safer.
Might want to read up dynos before you give bad info.
I have used mail order tunes and always had them checked on the dyno.
After a dyno tune it is done.


OP....I also agree on the Boss Long Block.

Good thing the majority of the members are smart enough to know your posts are full of FAIL...

I'm certainly not going to waste any more time responding to such foolery.

If you want to start another thread on dyno tuning vs email tunes go ahead instead of adding your ignorance here. As for the majority you the only one supporting your misinformation.

Sorry for being off topic OP.

$1600 is a lot of money regardless of how much someone has laying around. If you can't conceive of needing the extra $1600 worth on the Boss, then do what you feel comfortable with. Having your car down sucks as I and many on here know. Getting it back up as quickly as you can while doing what's best in the long run is what matters. I think either solution will do you fine.



You can start another thread, but it will turn into a flame fest and you will probably get your feelings hurt. Carry on with it though if you feel the need to be ostracized

BL00DSH0T you couldn't be more wrong. A dyno works well for getting a safe tune in the car that can be refined on the street.

1. You aren't going to fine tune shift points on a dyno.
2. You aren't going to put the same load on the car with it on the dyno vs. the street.

By datalogging while street tuning, the tuner can make the necessary adjustments to refine the tune. I invite you to ask any of the folks at Lund Racing the best method to tune a car and I bet they say the exact same thing I just did.

 

[captdistraction]

So besides the bickering over tuning (which I'll be very happy to start a new thread).

Anyone have comments on the engine selection I'm facing?

I'm looking at the Boss 302 crate or the Aluminator NA crate.

Per ford racing:

Aluminator:
412+ HP, 400+ TQ (not sure what the + means, but that is 10ft-lbs over stock)
11:1
low friction graphal coated Mahle pistons, Manley H beams, forged crank
2013 based block
Stock Coyote heads that have the Boss 302 Springs
6800 rated rpm redline (?)

Then $1600 more (if I sell my Boss intake):

Boss 302 Crate:
Mahle pistons, ? forged I beams, boss rebalanced crank
11:1
444 HP, 380 TQ
CNC heads, sodium filled valves (better heat dissipation), uprate springs
7500 rated redline
improved oil pan, tensioner reliefs added, different exhaust cams

I need to find out from ford if:

Both include exhaust manifolds
the harnesses are compatible with my vehicle
What cooling hardware or other engine parts I need to keep to install these
will the warranty be voided with tuning (I assume not given that both require custom calibration)
Will the warranty on the aluminator be voided if I install the boss 302 intake.

 

[konablue11gt]

I think for what youve said about what your using the car for the boss is the way to go ...more safe rpms ,better heads and cams ..if it were me id go this route in the long term and i realize 1600 isnt a drop in the bucket but it may end up saving you money down the road

 

[Mystickeith50]

Aluminator.....my choice.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Aluminator!!!!

 

[weather man]

Boss...you track it, so better valves may save your bacon. I wouldn't put much faith in a warranty. It would have to be "Captain Obvious" certain that Ford assembled something wrong.

 

[ArizonaGT]

You might want to call someone at FRPP and see what their opinion is on the Aluminator at sustained high RPMs like you'll see on the track (not the dragstrip).

 

[blackgt87]

You might want to call someone at FRPP and see what their opinion is on the Aluminator at sustained high RPMs like you'll see on the track (not the dragstrip).

^^This^^

If you buy the aluminator and run it up to 7500-7700 rpm you're asking for trouble IMO. Ford may be able to better comment on it, but you already snapped the head off a GT valve. They just may not be cut out for the road racing that you do.

 

[Sky Render]

BOSS is far superior for road racing applications.