Bigger, Stronger, and a Lift!

don_w

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Wow that wall is straight as an arrow. That sub contractor is doing some nice work.
I agree... The guy I'm using for the wall (Camilli's Concrete) does nice work. Credit goes to my neighbor for finding him a few months ago. I'll also have Camilli do all the other back yard concrete and stone work down the road. I've seen some of his other work in person, plus a lot of pics he has in a photo album, and I like what I saw.



Looks like that wall went up pretty quick. So your neighbor's house didn't burn down?
No, it burned too. They started building his house back in June or July, and he expects to move in around Jan or Feb. We're both using the same builder (Stonefield), so it's been cool to be able to watch his house go up the past few months. Even though they are different floor plans, there are enough similarities that I can get a good idea what to expect.
 

MSgt46270

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The wall looks pretty good. If you need it painted, AJ (ShakenMach 1) knows how to tag a wall. :roflmao:

Really he is good, here's a painting he did and we still have it hanging in the living room.

l_72f6a9933fd9f702531b88224cd4e3e7.jpg
 

C-Liz-Go

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This is so cool, keeping up with your progress, Don. I like seeing how different the building techniques are there compared to Houston or the Midwest.
 

thump_rrr

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Glad to see work is progressing Don.
Make sure whoever is doing the HVAC does a Manual J heat load calculation

There are too many people around who don't calculate properly or just use square footage as a ballpark.


What form of HVAC will you be going with?
 

don_w

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Thanks Peter.

The standard HVAC equipment listed is a dual furnace (AFUE 0.92), and a dual A/C, Sheer 14 with TXV. The entire house is designed/built to exceed CA Title 24 energy requirement by 35%, and includes better insualtion in walss and on ductwork, roof radiant barrier, duct leakage and infiltration testing, and Low-E dual glazed windows, etc. I'll find out if they include the Manual J heat load calculation.

Oh, and if finances allow it, I would like to include solar panels as well.
 

don_w

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November 17, 2008

The block work is now all done and filled with grout, and the waterproofing on the backside has been completed. They also finished the stucco scratch coat, which was still wet when I took the photos. There is also the first layer of filter fabric in place for the drainage system.




P1070050.jpg


P1070047.jpg


P1070046.jpg


P1070044.jpg


P1070048.jpg
 

thump_rrr

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Thanks Peter.

The standard HVAC equipment listed is a dual furnace (AFUE 0.92), and a dual A/C, Sheer 14 with TXV. The entire house is designed/built to exceed CA Title 24 energy requirement by 35%, and includes better insualtion in walss and on ductwork, roof radiant barrier, duct leakage and infiltration testing, and Low-E dual glazed windows, etc. I'll find out if they include the Manual J heat load calculation.
Oh, and if finances allow it, I would like to include solar panels as well.
Go with a contractor that will more than likely be around in the next 5-10 years that your warranty will be in effect.
Make sure your A/C is a heatpump. A heatpump is far mor efficient than any other heat source especially in your climate.
Make sure that it has a scroll compressor which has no pistons in it (Most are but it's better to be sure).
I would personally prefer to go with a little higher efficiency heatpump such as a 16 seer if there isn't a great difference in price.
I would expect it to use R-410A refrigerant (newer than R-22 which is being phased out).
I would make sure that the thermostat installed is a Honeywell Visionpro IAQ (no substitute).
It wholesales for around $225.00 but it is worth every penny for it's flexibility and ease of use.
That t-stat coupled with an outdor temp sensor will allow you to control the changeover of the heatpump as well as run a humidifier in the winter, air exchanger programed for the square footage of your home, dehumidify as well as heat and cool either with or without a pre arranged schedule all from one stat.
It is bussed so that the display only requires 3 wires to the main panel which gets installed next to the furnace.

Installation is as if not more important than the brand of equipment. Also make sure distances for access are respected for all the equipment.

As far as filtration goes make sure that they supply a filter rack which can hold 4" filters. They have a much greater surface area than 1" or 2" filters and will last you much longer while having less restriction.

Read the section on efficiency (COP)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pump#Efficiency

Honeywell Visionpro IAQ
http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1815EFS.pdf
http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1816EFS.pdf
 
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don_w

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Thanks for all the tips, Peter! :thumb:

I'm going to have to talk to the builder, because the HVAC is part of the home price, and I don't have any more details than what I provided above. I don't have the option of having an independent contractor do any of it. All I can do is ask them to change/upgrade certain things, and pay the difference.

But on the plus side, the house does come with a 10-year warranty.
 

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Don, Im glad its finally coming together. I was on the TMS forums when all that happened and am glad to see it coming together for you. Lots of luck. The plans look great. I'm sure you will have lots of great times to come in the new place.
 

don_w

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Well, I doubt Donna will give you the Master BR. My son will get BR 4, and BR 5 will be my office. So, you can have your choice of BR 2 or 3.
 

Chris06GT

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I'll take 2, he can have 3....lol....That is in the garage right???

It's looking good Don, hate to see something happen like this to someone...Hope all is well....
 

don_w

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Sorry... the garage is mine. haha. I might rent it out by the hour though. :thumb:
 

Chris06GT

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LOL, sounds good man....as long as I can rent a spot next to your car, that way it can make mine look faster.....
 

don_w

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November 21, 2008

In preparation for the foundation excavations, a lot of the excess dirt was used to backfill the wall, and the rest hauled away. Then the lot was re-graded to level everything out. Stonefield came in and laid out the footprint of the new house on the dirt using powdered chalk. This was really our first opportunity to visualize the new house on the lot. I must say, I was excited to see this after waiting 13 months!



View from SW corner, looking at garage

P1070088.jpg



Side view – front section of house

P1070097.jpg



Side view – center section of house

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Side view – rear section of house

P1070099.jpg



Side view – back yard area (including covered patio)

P1070100.jpg



Overall view – from center of hill behind the house

P1070104.jpg



Overall view – from right side of hill behind the house

P1070107.jpg



And to refresh your memory, here is the floorplan of the first floor (note that is it inverted compared to the photos from the hill)

First_Floor.jpg
 
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MSgt46270

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Do you have enough room for the trailer on the side of the house?

That's looking great.
 

don_w

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Do you have enough room for the trailer on the side of the house?

That's looking great.
It will be tight, but there is about 13 feet from the retaining wall, to the side of the garage, and the trailer is less than 9 feet wide.
 

jsawyer

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It will be tight, but there is about 13 feet from the retaining wall, to the side of the garage, and the trailer is less than 9 feet wide.

I would make sure and be there when the put the forms in. A neighbor of mine in the last place I built thought they would have room and the house was put 5' to the wrong side and they had no RV parking:tdown:

It looks like it is coming along nicely:thumb::popcorneat:
 

don_w

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I would make sure and be there when the put the forms in. A neighbor of mine in the last place I built thought they would have room and the house was put 5' to the wrong side and they had no RV parking:tdown:

It looks like it is coming along nicely:thumb::popcorneat:
Man that sucks...

But if that happened to me, they would be ripping it out and starting all over... on their dime!
 
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