ZmanM3
The Evil One
Sucks that you popped your engine but it looks like you are off to a good start on the rebuild.
Seer's 2012 GT500
- Thread starter Seer
- Start date
Premium08
Need to Get Another Pony
What he posted said that the 3v heads will not work.........
sent from zombie land
sent from zombie land
What he posted said that the 3v heads will not work.........
sent from zombie land
Let me rephrase i meant the 3v by the styling. The block applies to the gt500's pre 2011 but he has. 2012 gt500? What am i missing here ;(.
Premium08
Need to Get Another Pony
He must prefer an iron block over aluminum
sent from zombie land
sent from zombie land
So the blocks are interchangeable between the 2010 and 2012 gt500's? Didnt know they were that similar
07TGGT
@user
In 2011 Ford went to Aluminum blocks for the 5.4. Nothing else really changed within the blocks besides the material used.
Mike K
WANNA BE FAST
That sucks Seer. Since you sold the 2.9 what are you going with?
2007-2009 The 5.4 blocks were iron and lacked provisions for knock sensors.
2010 The 5.4 block was iron but had provisions for knock sensors.
2011-2014 The 5.4 and 5.8 blocks are aluminum and have provisions for knock sensors.
This FRPP Short block is actually the latest iron block revision that is found in the 2010 Cobra Jet. It is a direct swap with a 2011+ GT500.
I chose this block for a few reasons. Availability (zero wait time for build, as I ordered it this week and will be here early next week) and cost. I did not want to spend $7000+ on an aluminum block build up.
Haven't decided completely yet.
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07TGGT
@user
TT that bad bitch!
did you open the motor in the car yet?
GallopingFord
I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive
I was curious to see what would happen. Looking forward to see the whole thing pan out.
nope. Won't have an opportunity to until a few weeks. But all signs point to catastrophic outcomes. If I was going to keep the car I intended on doing something similar anyway.
Taken from my other thread in the gt500 section.
So I have decided to switch to a return style fuel system on my rebuild. I have been given conflicting information from various tuners and manufacturers of these fuel systems.
Scenario 1.
Install Return Style Fuel System like how the instructions say, which is to install new hat/return style pumps into the tank and disable the FPDM's in the tune and just trigger off the fpdm's with a relay and let the regulator on the line do its work. These seems to be the easiest scenario.
Scenario 2.
I am being told that my year 2012, lacks the ability to tune out some of the trouble codes of bypassing the FPDM and having a return style pump run 100% of the time (like how they are designed) whch could cause issues like crank relearns etc.
So it was recommended that I install a return line and regulator like a return style system, as well as a new hat with larger pumps but maintain the FPDM's and just upgrade their wiring, as in run a wire from the battery straight to both FPDM's then upgrade the wiring to the hat. This second scenario requires zero tuning adjustments.
Thoughts?
So I have decided to switch to a return style fuel system on my rebuild. I have been given conflicting information from various tuners and manufacturers of these fuel systems.
Scenario 1.
Install Return Style Fuel System like how the instructions say, which is to install new hat/return style pumps into the tank and disable the FPDM's in the tune and just trigger off the fpdm's with a relay and let the regulator on the line do its work. These seems to be the easiest scenario.
Scenario 2.
I am being told that my year 2012, lacks the ability to tune out some of the trouble codes of bypassing the FPDM and having a return style pump run 100% of the time (like how they are designed) whch could cause issues like crank relearns etc.
So it was recommended that I install a return line and regulator like a return style system, as well as a new hat with larger pumps but maintain the FPDM's and just upgrade their wiring, as in run a wire from the battery straight to both FPDM's then upgrade the wiring to the hat. This second scenario requires zero tuning adjustments.
Thoughts?
Surfstang2020
Senior Member
Sucks about the motor but the new one should be pretty sweet
Sent from your moms phone
Sent from your moms phone
Fake_Snake
FAUX GT500
Seer, sucks the motor let go. Atleast you have the ball already going to get it back up and running good luck man
GrnBullitt08
Dale Jr
I would go with scenario 2....your putting a lot of money into rebuilding this motor and car, no sense in risking any fuel related issues or possible tuning malfunction that could jeopardize the new setup. Spend the extra cash and save th headaches.
But does scenario 2 work? From my understanding is, if you run the fpdm's full time, they will burn out. But if you don't run the pumps full time, they will burn out.
GrnBullitt08
Dale Jr
Sounds like your dealing with a double adage sword haha. Lund tunes your car, have you talked to him or Ken B about what they recommend? Scenario one would be the easiest way basically bypassing the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) and letting th regulator control the fuel pressure but after doing some research I'm not sure myself whether that will causes issues with the PCM sensing fuel pressure or even realizing that its there without the module communicating with it. Thus the crank issues you were saying.... You should be able to delete the FPDM and FRPT out of the PCM which would omit some if those tuning related issues...
Doesn't Lethal or one of the vendors make drop in systems for the GT500 that have upgradable FPDM options or conversion to suit a larger return style system?
Also, I would think when adding aftermarket they would be designed to run all the time and handle the abuse of the return style system.
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