Battery relocation

CraigNnem

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Thanks for your input.

Im a visual type person, do you have any pics of your setup you can post?

Also any links to the parts you used?
 

ebrow21

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Did a search & came up with this thread.

Can you post better pics of the under hood connections of your relocation & also can I purchase the rest of what's needed to complete this from a normal automotive store ( NAPA, auto zone, etc....) , or do I have to order it online?

I have the steeda relocation kit & thought it came with all necessary hardware to comlete the relocation, but apparently it does not.

Thanks in advance to the O.P. or whomever can guide me in the right direction.

We have the same b.s. kit steeda sells then. Going off memory, so I may miss something small.

I had to buy another ground from autozone that had an existing end soldered on. I cleaned the paint off and used one of the mount bolts for the axleback as the base ground.

I also purchased this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNNHIM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to tie in the cable to the other hots in the engine bay. I like the clean look/easy mount/no crimp setup.

Alternately, you can opt to put ends on the hots and tie them together on a post. West Marine is a good source. this http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...gle&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=17492#.UUKUVTtAqsg They have different options for stud size there.

I also had to buy ends/heatshrink for the two grounds you lose in the engine bay, which I used the existing holes in the shock tower to do. They rent/sell a crimper for the larger gauge ends, but a good heavy duty wire crimper should do the trick (for the smaller gauge grounds). I melted some solder in the end prior to crimping, never had a problem.

I could have given you details before, didn't know you were in the process.
 

CraigNnem

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So let me get this straight, if I buy a length of ground wire that goes from the trunk to the original ground in the engine bay & two of the distribution blocks in your first link, that would be all I need to complete the relocation, or do I need a fuse on the hot side near the battery also?
 

04compgt

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We have the same b.s. kit steeda sells then. Going off memory, so I may miss something small.

I had to buy another ground from autozone that had an existing end soldered on. I cleaned the paint off and used one of the mount bolts for the axleback as the base ground.

I also purchased this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNNHIM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to tie in the cable to the other hots in the engine bay. I like the clean look/easy mount/no crimp setup.

Alternately, you can opt to put ends on the hots and tie them together on a post. West Marine is a good source. this http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...gle&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=17492#.UUKUVTtAqsg They have different options for stud size there.

I also had to buy ends/heatshrink for the two grounds you lose in the engine bay, which I used the existing holes in the shock tower to do. They rent/sell a crimper for the larger gauge ends, but a good heavy duty wire crimper should do the trick (for the smaller gauge grounds). I melted some solder in the end prior to crimping, never had a problem.

I could have given you details before, didn't know you were in the process.

You couldn't have said it any better. That is exactly how I did mine.
 

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