Coilover remote question

[zeroescape]

I purchased a set of fr500s coilovers and installing them this weekend. Looking at the 2 they seem to be identical meaning no left or right. So the banjo fitting to the remote is oriented the same way on each shock.

The left side was the easiest but the right side has me worried its going to rub the remote lines.

My question is can i slightly crack this banjo fitting and turn it 180 degrees, so i can then mount the shock body 180 degrees as well and run it from behind.

Or would I have to have the shock re-serviced to change the position?

Any pictures of others peoples remote installations we be appreciated, dont have a set plan on them at the moment. Trying to find pics of boss 302s installs.

Thanks

 

[2013DIBGT]

Nice coil-overs!

Can't help you with your question but in looking at your pics I think it would be worth your headache to remove those shocks again and scrape off the body filler "goo" and remount the shock mount to a clean surface on the body (ie..metal to metal). That goo may end up causing flex and unpredictable movement of the rear shock in its current state.

 

[Department Of Boost]

My question is can i slightly crack this banjo fitting and turn it 180 degrees

No, not unless you can check the nitrogen pressure afterward. And even then if you goof it up you will loose too much fluid and they will have to be serviced.

That said they should be serviced before you use them anyway. All used high end dampers should be gone through before use. They tend to get used hard.

 

[zeroescape]

No, not unless you can check the nitrogen pressure afterward. And even then if you goof it up you will loose too much fluid and they will have to be serviced.

That said they should be serviced before you use them anyway. All used high end dampers should be gone through before use. They tend to get used hard.

They are brand new from rehagen racing and they look it. So its not some used set that need to re-serviced anyway.

 

[Roadracer350]

As Gmitch said no. If you crack it to turn it it will be under pressure and you will loose fluid. Call Regan and discuss doing this with them because they may have a way you can. You may be able to take the spring off to ease up the pressure a bit but you will still loose some fluid and/or need it to be recharged. If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for them?

 

[Philostang]

Hmmm...I have the same shocks (also from Rehagen - unreal good deal on these, eh!).

Anyway, I don't recall having that problem. I'll have to double check and get some better pics for you of how I installed mine.

From the looks of your pics, are you trying to mount the canisters forward of the shock? Looks like you're routing the line towards the front of the car. I mounted mine just heading straight back, so it made little difference that the banjo was on one side or another. Of course, I did cut out a 2" access hole into my trunk and then curved the line around to mount to the shock brace bar I welded in. But for that, it was a very gentle round bend.

I'll see if I can make it over to the garage for some decent pics. What I have now is pretty rough.

Best,
-j

 

[Philostang]

Ok, who am I kidding? I have no idea when I'll get better pics for you, so here are the ones I have:

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

Trunk Mounts:

Note that the FRPP upper mount is oriented so that it faces out/forward. That should give you clearance to run the lines pretty cleanly regardless of whether the banjo is on one side or the other. They don't quite go straight back as I recalled, they're more like straight out from the car's centerline and then looped back.

Best,
-j

p.s. -For those wondering, I made up a wood/fiberglass base so that I could put a storage box in the spare area w/o having to deal with the hump in the center of it.

 

[zeroescape]

Thanks for the pictures. Taking some notes for the remote install.

Looking at your setup it looks like your shocks are mirrored. Both banjo appear to be pointed towards the rear and outboard.

Ill attach a picture of my shocks just after i put the springs springs on.

Mine appear identical so I were to mount them one banjo would point rearward and outboard and the other would point rearward and inboard. There is not enough room to point it inboard so i have to 180 the right rear shock.

So yeah, now its pointed forward and outboard, which causes tire clearance issues. I want the banjos just how your pictures have them.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Philostang]

Yeah, I think you're right about them being mirrored. I seem to recall that the shocks carried different part numbers. The canisters should have part numbers that end in RL and RR. The full numbers are M-18000-E RL and M-18000-E RR. You may want to double check that you didn't inadvertently get two of the same shocks.

Minor point: We may be using our terms differently w/regard to inboard/outboard (these pics barely help that too). To be clear, my banjos are actually on the inboard side. Looking at my pics, note that to even see the banjos you need to be standing towards the rear of the axle. Standing at the front (by the door for ex), you wouldn't see the banjos since they're on the other side of the shock closer to the body. Of course, the banjo itself is inboard but the line comes off of it pointing outboard and towards the rear - part of what makes it possible to gently loop it back into the trunk.

Best,
-j

 

[csamsh]

Any idea who makes those shocks?

 

[Philostang]

SACHS baby!!

 

[Philostang]

Ok, these are Rehagen's photos, but this is exactly how I got mine and the same numbers on mine:

Note, they are mirrored.

Best,
-j

 

[zeroescape]

DOH!

I looked all over the shock and skipped right past the remotes. Thank you, Yeah 2 rear lefts. Bummer.

I looked at the boxes, boxes say one of each.

Ill contact rehagen racing on monday.

Thanks.

 

[Department Of Boost]

As Gmitch said no. If you crack it to turn it it will be under pressure and you will loose fluid. Call Regan and discuss doing this with them because they may have a way you can. You may be able to take the spring off to ease up the pressure a bit but you will still loose some fluid and/or need it to be recharged. If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for them?

Please refrain from giving damper servicing advice in the future. You have no idea what you’re talking about. Your kind of advice is the cause of most interweb “bad knowledge”.

 

[csamsh]

SACHS baby!!

Cool! Yeah 1k for the pair is a DEAL.

 

[Roadracer350]

Please refrain from giving damper servicing advice in the future. You have no idea what you’re talking about. Your kind of advice is the cause of most interweb “bad knowledge”.

WTF? Not only did I agree with you but told him to call Regan. It was an idea from how we service bike shocks with reomte reservoirs. Before you pass all mighty judgment on someone maybe you should think twice..

 

[908ssp]

......... You may be able to take the spring off to ease up the pressure a bit but you will still loose some fluid and/or need it to be recharged. .............

WTF? Not only did I agree with you but told him to call Regan. It was an idea from how we service bike shocks with reomte reservoirs. Before you pass all mighty judgment on someone maybe you should think twice..

The first statement demonstrates you don't know how a shock absorber works, how it is built or the plumbing inside. If you did you'd know that the spring helps lower the pressure on the gas charge.

Whether you can rotate or not really depends on whether that shock is high or low pressure gas charge. If it is high pressure trying to rotate the banjo is near impossible, you'll lose pressure and need the shock recharged.

 

[Roadracer350]

Like I said before call regan. I have built plenty of rear shocks for bikes I don't need to prove anything to you 908SSP or Gmitch.

 

[Department Of Boost]

WTF? Not only did I agree with you but told him to call Regan. It was an idea from how we service bike shocks with reomte reservoirs. Before you pass all mighty judgment on someone maybe you should think twice..

Your display of your complete an utter lack of knowledge of the inner workings of a gas charged single piston/single tube damper and mis-informing the interweb is what prompted me to make my comment. You are giving advice about a subject you clearly know nothing about. In fact the advice you gave is the EXACT OPPISITE of how the damper works. This is not my opinion, this is a fact. You are saying 2+2=cat when in fact it equals 4.

If you are servicing dampers stop, you don’t even understand the basic concept of how they work.

I don’t need to think before I pass judgment on this subject. I can assure you I know exactly how they work. So well that not only can I service ever kind of damper out there, I can successfully do custom modifications and I could probably design one form scratch if I needed too.

You gave bad advice and got busted. No big deal, everyone makes mistakes from time to time. That only makes you human. But if you make the same mistake twice or argue about it you are cementing the fact that you’re an idiot. I’m asking you, not to make the same mistake twice.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Like I said before call regan. I have built plenty of rear shocks for bikes I don't need to prove anything to you 908SSP or Gmitch.

The statement in question is:

You may be able to take the spring off to ease up the pressure a bit but you will still loose some fluid and/or need it to be recharged.

Not if he should call Rehagen or not. Note I changed it to bold so you were not confused in my post above. As usual you are trying to steer the tread away from what you really said. You have quite the track record of changing the subject when you get caught saying something you can't back up.

I don’t care how may shocks you have serviced, it doesn’t mean you know what you are doing or understand how they work. In fact you have PROVEN beyond a reasonable doubt that you do not understand how they work by your comment above.

You’re right, you don’t need to prove anything. You simply need to stop disseminating bad information.