Rear diff question

foolio2k4

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Question: How do I know if my diff is starting to go out? I put on Pirelli Corsa at the rear and can feel the inside rear wheel spin when turning right at a stop. Don't know if this is an indication of the diff not doing its job properly or...

Planning on switching to the T2-R soon after!
 

RocketcarX

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In the olden days before limited-slip differentials were widely economical and available for small roadrace cars, a locked rear gear was just about the only option. If you had one in your Sprite you learned to drive it and you beat the guy with an open differential. In the associations where locked rears were illegal, part of tech inspection was to push your car around in a small circle; the shudder of racing tires being dragged across pavement was a giveaway.

The economical way to lock the gears was to place the appropriate, assembled parts in some kind of bowl and pour enough molten lead in to accomplish the locking. That way you could easily recover the gears if you needed to. Something to think about in case someone is bent on trying a 'spool'.

I raced an MGB with a Detroit Locker. It took adopting some technique changes, but was indispensable once acclimated.

Lulz, study the picture I quoted and get back too me
 

DILYSI Dave

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There are C-Prepared drivers who run Detroit Lockers and other locking diffs with great success... it requires a lot different driving style though...

Yeah, the CP guys who do that essentially set the car up around driving a car in a perpetual state of power oversteer. I'm not convinced that's the right way, though seeing 600HP go through the finish lights sideways is pretty damn cool regardless.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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Note he said less durable, I don't even know what that means.
It's either broken or not broken :roflmao:

How did the Tru trac work on the road course

I did say "less durable" because durability is relative to time (duration) and activity or stress. The Tru track is more durable and performs better than OEM on the road courses, but provided me less durability and performance (bias ratio) than the T2-R; it didn't take long for the True Trac to whine and require replacement. It's not a matter of "it either works or its broke". Might as well as say a Pinto is just as durable as a Mercedes because they either work or they don't when they break down. LOL :screw:
 
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fdjizm

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The tru trac started to whine and needed replacement?
more info, when you took it out was is damaged? when did it whine?
 

Gray Ghost GT

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The tru trac started to whine and needed replacement?
more info, when you took it out was is damaged? when did it whine?

The diff began to eat itself after only two years of road course events. I pulled it as soon as it showed signs of deterioration. YMMV
 

Sky Render

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The diff began to eat itself after only two years of road course events. I pulled it as soon as it showed signs of deterioration. YMMV

Did you have an early unit? There were some issues with the bolts on first generation of 8.8" units. You're still the only person I've heard have issues.

I'm still considering the TrueTrac; my car is mostly daily-driven and autocrossed and doesn't see much road course use.

I don't mind spending the coin on the T-2R, but I'm curious if it will hold up being driven 10-12,000 miles a year? Is it still streetable?

Sent from my toilet using Tapatalk
 

Gray Ghost GT

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I believe I had a 1st generation verion of that particular differential. Don't get me wrong. It's a great product and worth consideration.

For all I know it could have been an installation problem from the shop I worked with at the time. I think I just had bad luck.

I wouldn't hesitate buying the TrueTrac for a car that's mostly a daily driver that does some autocrossing, etc.

Go for it.
 
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Sky Render

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I believe I had a 1st generation verion of that particular differential. Don't get me wrong. It's a great product and worth consideration.

For all I know it could have been an installation problem from the shop I worked with at the time. I think I just had bad luck.

I wouldn't hesitate buying the TrueTrac for a car that's mostly a daily driver that does some autocrossing, etc.

Go for it.

How did you like the handling characteristics of the Truetrac? Was it better than the stock clutch-pack Traclock?

I'll be honest: I also drag race occasionally, and I know the Torsen T-2R likes to grenade on hard launches, which is another reason I'm leaning towards that Eaton. And price.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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How did you like the handling characteristics of the Truetrac? Was it better than the stock clutch-pack Traclock?

I'll be honest: I also drag race occasionally, and I know the Torsen T-2R likes to grenade on hard launches, which is another reason I'm leaning towards that Eaton. And price.

The Eaton Truetrack was very smooth and quiet while improving performance over the OEM differential. You're right, great upgrade for the price. Yeah, the T-2R doesn't like hard launches from what I've read, but it aweseome for autocross and road course activities. I think my bad experience with the Truetrac is among a very small % and I was pushing the car through a lot of turns, which I'm sure was placing a lot of stress on that component. I think you'll really like the Truetrac.
 

19COBRA93

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I can't say enough good things about my Truetrac. When compared with the OEM clutch diff, it's FAR above in performance. It's like the difference between a V6 and V8 engine. Torsens are great too, and I'd love the bias of the T2R, but I need something I can trust at the drag strip. I'm actually stepping up to 33 spine axles, and luckily Truetrac has a 33 spline unit available.
 

2011/5.0

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How hards the install on the truetrac its on the to do list
 

Sharad

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Question: How do I know if my diff is starting to go out? I put on Pirelli Corsa at the rear and can feel the inside rear wheel spin when turning right at a stop. Don't know if this is an indication of the diff not doing its job properly or...

Planning on switching to the T2-R soon after!

*Sigh* My 2011 has maybe 26k miles on it now? Today, for the first time since I've owned the car, I hit a sharp right turn in second gear and as I applied power at corner exit, only the right tire spun. Sad Sharad. Time for a diff.


How did you like the handling characteristics of the Truetrac? Was it better than the stock clutch-pack Traclock?

I'll be honest: I also drag race occasionally, and I know the Torsen T-2R likes to grenade on hard launches, which is another reason I'm leaning towards that Eaton. And price.

^^this is a consideration for me as well. The 2011 is my "handling car" (as opposed to my street/strip Fox), but I need need to perform occasional drag strip testing for my employer. So I guess the Truetrac is ideal for me.


I can't say enough good things about my Truetrac. When compared with the OEM clutch diff, it's FAR above in performance. It's like the difference between a V6 and V8 engine. Torsens are great too, and I'd love the bias of the T2R, but I need something I can trust at the drag strip. I'm actually stepping up to 33 spine axles, and luckily Truetrac has a 33 spline unit available.

33 spline Truetrac- now that's what I'm talking about.
 

Boaisy

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Question: How do I know if my diff is starting to go out? I put on Pirelli Corsa at the rear and can feel the inside rear wheel spin when turning right at a stop. Don't know if this is an indication of the diff not doing its job properly or...

Planning on switching to the T2-R soon after!

Let's just say that when I last tried to floor it during a right turn (about a week ago), the wheels kept spinning all the way through 2nd. I have also noticed during recent Autocrosses (doing it for about 2 years in this car), the left 180's would make the traction system "flip out" while the right 180's would not, but there was still some instability. Jack the rear up on some jack stands and spin the wheels. You will be able to tell if there is any play in the differential.
 

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