GT500 vs OEM Strut Mounts

[cm581978]

To those that have switched from OEM to the GT500 strut mounts, have you noticed any difference in steering feel? I'm aware the GT500 strut mounts are sort of a band aid fix for clunking noises, but I'm hoping to hear honest answers

 

[csamsh]

No difference

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

Teenie tiny difference, but not enough to warrant the trouble, time or cost of swapping. If you want to make a real change in handling get an adjustable, spherical top mount camber plate and remove a hunk of rubber the size of your fist plus gain much needed camber adjustment.

 

[cm581978]

Well, I can buy brand new oem ones for $32 or buy used gt500 mounts for $30, so wasnt sure if it was worth it.

 

[Pentalab]

There is NO camber adjustment on either the oem or GT-500 strut mounts for 05-14 cars, GT/V6/GT-500's. My 2010 ended up with -1.1 deg on the pass side....and -1.4 deg on the driver's side. At least let's get the same camber on both sides. Ford sez anything from -.5 to -1.5 is within spec. And they mean one side could be -.5 and the other side could be -1.5.

In desperation, I tossed the oem stut mounts and installed the steeda heavy duty strut mounts..which allow +/- 1 deg of camber. ( that's +/- 1 deg of whatever you have to begin with).

There are plenty of oher stut mounts out there that will allow for camber adjustment...and some will also include caster adjustment.

I set em both for -1 deg. I run a staggered setup from may-oct, so can't rotate the tires. I could go as high as -2.1 deg on both sides... but was concerned about tire wear. At the time, I thought I would play it safe..and set em for -1 deg. They can be increased a bit at a later date.

Stock, these cars can only have the toe adjusted. If you are going to install lowering springs and shocks, that is the time to install a strut mount with an adjustable camber. Both the oem + GT-500 strut mounts are one time use only. If they start clunking on you, and you replace em with GT-500 versions, they could clunk again down the road.........and you still have no camber adjustment.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I don't think I've ever heard of GT500 mounts clunking. They're REALLY stout. Great for someone that doesn't want to spend a bunch of money on aftermarket components.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Great for someone that doesn't want to spend a bunch of money on aftermarket components.

I wish I were such a person.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I wish I were such a person.

Hahaha riiiiight? I'd be able to find cocaine and hooker hobbies if I were.

 

[BMR Tech]

There is NO camber adjustment on either the oem or GT-500 strut mounts for 05-14 cars, GT/V6/GT-500's. My 2010 ended up with -1.1 deg on the pass side....and -1.4 deg on the driver's side. At least let's get the same camber on both sides. Ford sez anything from -.5 to -1.5 is within spec. And they mean one side could be -.5 and the other side could be -1.5.

In desperation, I tossed the oem stut mounts and installed the steeda heavy duty strut mounts..which allow +/- 1 deg of camber. ( that's +/- 1 deg of whatever you have to begin with).

There are plenty of oher stut mounts out there that will allow for camber adjustment...and some will also include caster adjustment.

I set em both for -1 deg. I run a staggered setup from may-oct, so can't rotate the tires. I could go as high as -2.1 deg on both sides... but was concerned about tire wear. At the time, I thought I would play it safe..and set em for -1 deg. They can be increased a bit at a later date.

Stock, these cars can only have the toe adjusted. If you are going to install lowering springs and shocks, that is the time to install a strut mount with an adjustable camber. Both the oem + GT-500 strut mounts are one time use only. If they start clunking on you, and you replace em with GT-500 versions, they could clunk again down the road.........and you still have no camber adjustment.

Well, there is a slight amount of camber adjustment.

You can flip the Upper Mounts 180 degrees out, and it will gain about .20 degrees of camber. I recommend this quite often to my customers who panic about being beyond that -1.5 degree "spec". For example, -1.7 is common for our front lowering spring. Flipping the mounts will typically put the car back into the -1.4 to -1.5 range.

Then there are "free mods". Not really free, but, you can modify the strut to spindle mounting holes. Between flipping the USM 180 degrees, and slotting the strut holes, you can get a decent amount of camber to work with.

You can also slot the A-Arm mounts.

But yeah, in terms of easy adjustment - definitely none available from the factory when speaking of a substantial range.

 

[dark steed]

I bought GT500 mounts when I lowered mine at 80k miles. I flipped them 180 degrees and no alignment issues at all. 26k miles and perfect wear on the tires.

 

[todcp]

To those that have switched from OEM to the GT500 strut mounts, have you noticed any difference in steering feel? I'm aware the GT500 strut mounts are sort of a band aid fix for clunking noises, but I'm hoping to hear honest answers

No significant enough benefit and no need to change the mounts unless you have the struts/springs out for replacement.
However; If you are replacing the struts or springs then get the GT500 mounts as the stock mounts are not worth saving.
Usually no need for Camber Plates unless you want to switch back and forth from track use to street settings.

 

[05gtowner]

Another endorsement for the steeda HD strut mounts. Easy to adjust and get the correct amount of camber, quiet while driving and going over bumps and the studs are welded to the plate. I have had them on for a little while now and am very pleased with them. I contemplated running GT500 mounts but am glad I got the Steeda units. There are plenty of good companies making these so shop around and don't cheap out or you will be doing this again before long.

 

[Pentalab]

Well, there is a slight amount of camber adjustment.

You can flip the Upper Mounts 180 degrees out, and it will gain about .20 degrees of camber. I recommend this quite often to my customers who panic about being beyond that -1.5 degree "spec". For example, -1.7 is common for our front lowering spring. Flipping the mounts will typically put the car back into the -1.4 to -1.5 range.

Then there are "free mods". Not really free, but, you can modify the strut to spindle mounting holes. Between flipping the USM 180 degrees, and slotting the strut holes, you can get a decent amount of camber to work with.

You can also slot the A-Arm mounts.

But yeah, in terms of easy adjustment - definitely none available from the factory when speaking of a substantial range.

That's one helluva lot of work and effort.... to flip the oem strut mounts 180 deg..esp if you are paying somebody to do it. I also looked at camber bolts...but quickly dispensed with the idea...too weak imo.

Even with the GT-500 /oem strut mounts, it's a crap shoot with what camber you will end up with. My goal was to at least get both pass + driver side the SAME camber, regardless of camber. With the steeda heavy duty strut mounts, I can make both fronts exactly the same...and set em to anything I want. They are not cheap, but very well made.

I took a really long hard look at the situation..and decided to spend once, install once. If you are paying somebody to install this stuff, the labor cost is identical, so you save nothing. IF your replacement OEM / GT-500 mounts start to give you grief, what's next, install a 3rd set ? Toss in the labor for the 3rd set, and you lost it right there.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Hey BMR, can you talk a little more about how you slotted the mounting holes? I'm curious.

 

[claudermilk]

If you want to make a real change in handling get an adjustable, spherical top mount camber plate and remove a hunk of rubber the size of your fist plus gain much needed camber adjustment.

This. I went ahead and spent the money on those beauties. After a week on the car, I have already noted very much improved steering response. The car goes in for two alignments (street & track) and marking the plates tomorrow. Then I get to play with it at CalClub's Solo II event this Sunday--looking forward to the differences/improvements from the changes.

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

Hey BMR, can you talk a little more about how you slotted the mounting holes? I'm curious.

Well... in my opinion, slotting strut mounting brackets is generally a really bad idea. The only time I would suggest it is if you race in a class with really jacked up rules, where slotting struts is the ONLY means of camber adjustment allowed (SCCA F Street, which allows this for certain S197s due to a factory TSB referring to the 2007-08 Shelby Mustangs).

Why? Because adjusting camber in control arms or top mounts is a better solution. These methods are more repeatable and have better "tunability" than slotting holes in brackets. And there are also the unforeseen changes to slotting strut holes, including:

• Lowers inboard wheel clearance.
• Changes SAI geometry
• The slotted holes can SLIP under heavy loads. We've seen this happen many times
• This slotted junction can weaken the strut mounting bolts, which in the past had a tendency to break... a lot... on SCCA F Stock Mustangs.

We've gone to great lengths on several strut housing "re-dos" to fill in slotted holes. Either with welded in slugs (above) or bolt in slugs (below). This makes the strut not slip or come loose under heavy side loading.



Not just saying that because we sell camber plates, either. We've seen and understand the downsides of slotted struts...

 

[DevGittinJr]

No significant enough benefit and no need to change the mounts unless you have the struts/springs out for replacement.
However; If you are replacing the struts or springs then get the GT500 mounts as the stock mounts are not worth saving.
Usually no need for Camber Plates unless you want to switch back and forth from track use to street settings.

^^ This.

 

[BMR Tech]

That's one helluva lot of work and effort.... to flip the oem strut mounts 180 deg..esp if you are paying somebody to do it. I also looked at camber bolts...but quickly dispensed with the idea...too weak imo.

Even with the GT-500 /oem strut mounts, it's a crap shoot with what camber you will end up with. My goal was to at least get both pass + driver side the SAME camber, regardless of camber. With the steeda heavy duty strut mounts, I can make both fronts exactly the same...and set em to anything I want. They are not cheap, but very well made.

I took a really long hard look at the situation..and decided to spend once, install once. If you are paying somebody to install this stuff, the labor cost is identical, so you save nothing. IF your replacement OEM / GT-500 mounts start to give you grief, what's next, install a 3rd set ? Toss in the labor for the 3rd set, and you lost it right there.

I agree.

As for the complication of flipping the mounts, that is actually very easy. Unbolt the strut mount stud nuts, drop the arm down slightly, rotate and re-position, then put the nuts back on.

I was simply stating that there is a little adjustment in that system, available.

Hey BMR, can you talk a little more about how you slotted the mounting holes? I'm curious.

Basically, you can slot the strut holes as Terry pictured. This allows you to reposition the spindle, in the position that you need to achieve your desired camber spec. If you want to gain a small amount of camber, you can simply slot the upper strut hole inward a little. If you need to pull the camber out, then slot the hole outward to pull the spindle out.

I was giving a quick mention of this, I recommend anyone performing this, or questioning how to do it properly - to give me a call. I would not recommend just whipping out the dremel/grinder....grinding, tightening and going about your day.

Well... in my opinion, slotting strut mounting brackets is generally a really bad idea. The only time I would suggest it is if you race in a class with really jacked up rules, where slotting struts is the ONLY means of camber adjustment allowed (SCCA F Street, which allows this for certain S197s due to a factory TSB referring to the 2007-08 Shelby Mustangs).

Why? Because adjusting camber in control arms or top mounts is a better solution. These methods are more repeatable and have better "tunability" than slotting holes in brackets. And there are also the unforeseen changes to slotting strut holes, including:

• Lowers inboard wheel clearance.
• Changes SAI geometry
• The slotted holes can SLIP under heavy loads. We've seen this happen many times
• This slotted junction can weaken the strut mounting bolts, which in the past had a tendency to break... a lot... on SCCA F Stock Mustangs.

We've gone to great lengths on several strut housing "re-dos" to fill in slotted holes. Either with welded in slugs (above) or bolt in slugs (below). This makes the strut not slip or come loose under heavy side loading.

Not just saying that because we sell camber plates, either. We've seen and understand the downsides of slotted struts...

I agree with you, in that I recommend a set of camber plates over slotting. I routinely recommend the Vorshlag plates, actually.

I was simply stating that there is a method of adjusting the camber without utilizing aftermarket camber plates.

That said, I would not say it is a bad idea for someone who knows what they are doing, to slot their suspension pieces. If the person performing the modification, uses a little sense and caution - it can work well. I am not going to recommend it to the masses, though.

There are many companies who make parts with slots and slugs - and some without slugs, that have had excellent success in the suspension industry.

There are also companies that have mass produced vehicles running slotted mounts on the front suspension pieces; 93-02 GM F-Body's for example.

At the end of the day, there is no question that I recommend a CC Plate over slotting; but I can't say that I believe it is a bad idea for any and everyone.

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

No worries, Kelly... and you're right - there are a lot of slotted strut brackets out there. Just wanted to warn people that slots and cammed bolts can slip, if given enough lateral load, and slotting it does eat into your potential inboard wheel clearance if you're trying to run big wheels.

2013 Mustang GT on 18x11" wheels at all four corners

We just shot a video with the car above showing how to fit 18x11" wheels on a S197 under stock fenders, which I think it will help make more sense with respect to slotting struts, after when we get it posted.

We do occasionally see slotted strut and crash bolt equipped track cars that have slipped somewhere. We even just worked on a track-only S197 (above) that had shifted the whole front subframe laterally in the stock holes (big sideways off-track excursion at 100+ mph). One front wheel could get -3.5° camber but the other side could only get -2.0°... until we re-installed the subframe and got it all centered up (now max camber is the same on both sides).

My main point is - if there's slop in the mounting holes for anything on the suspension, it can move if you push hard enough.

 

[csamsh]

Also Terry, remember how my car was when I brought it to you a couple weeks ago? More slotted struts...or maybe just my shade-tree "mechanic" skillz!!!