don_w
Dyno Numbers - Who Cares?
Not sure about the shocks, but if I make a switch I want to keep the coilover setup complete should I decide to sell it.
LOL... I haven't even thought about it yet, plus they are still on the car!how much you asking for them there coilovers ole man ? lmao
Thanks Mark!Well first of all, barring the oil down before that one pass Adam made on Sunday, the track was in AWESOME condition. It played no role in Don's 60's IMO. There were 2 national records broken and ridiculous 60's from the pro cars so the track was in good shape.
Hell, I was cutting 1.9-2.0 60's with a bone stock rental on street tires...lol
First of all, Don - as I told you on the phone - I was VERY IMPRESSED with your car and it is bad ass!!
Now, I told you guys a long time ago that once you start getting up there in power, coil overs won't work for shit on these heavy cars. They work great up to a certain point, but once you start throwing a big shock to the rear, the 3 link greatly needs the stock spring location.
Weight has nothing to do with it cause my car was 4080 lbs and I was turning 1.3x - low1.4x 60's. I did that when I dropped the coilovers and after I told Ken, he did the same and whola - his 60's improved as well.
Coilovers on the rear are not 'bad' - just not right when a certain power level is reached. The extra spring rate of the GT500 springs also help considerably when heavy impact is being applied from powerful launches.
You need the GT500 springs and, truth be told, any of those shocks will do the job (QA1, Strange, Rancho, etc.) just about any drag shock is going to work for ya. The real 'secret' isn't the shock but the stock spring location with a heavier spring rate...
Good times though, and the car is a beast. Get the coil overs off there and you're done (until you need a trans)
Great job!!!
PM coming...if your interested too don i found some gt500 springs for cheap .... just pm me
Thanks Mark!
And I do remember you talking about the coilovers back when. Apparently I've gone past their effectiveness, so it's time to move on to something else.
LOL... I haven't even thought about it yet, plus they are still on the car!
Yes, we have a set of Ranchos to fit for 178.00 per pair. If you would like to order please call me at 1-800-607-2266 Thank you
Travis VanKirk
Calvert Racing Suspensions
4530 Runway Dr.
Lancaster Ca 93536
661-728-9600
661-728-9615 fax
Thanks!Here is the info on the Rancho shocks.
As part of the ongoing effort to get my 60-foot times down, I would appreciate it if some of you would check out the launch in some of these videos (in post #106), and let me know your opinion. Are the coilovers really hurting me? Will a switch back to stock location shocks and springs make much of a difference?
TIA...
I know several people have suggested I get rid of the coilovers now, but I want to be sure it's the right theing to do before I invest in new shocks and springs. That's why I'm hoping the vids have some clues.I tend not to comment on setup when the person in question is running faster, both in the 60' and 1/8, then me but my best 60's were when I pulled the front tires off the ground. I know that doing that is wasted energy but that is what seems to work for me. When I had me Steeda relo bracket installed my first runs were set in the bottom hole. Moving it up one made it run faster.
I know changing springs is an easy job, but I do not know how much work it would be to swap them back for testing. If it is not too much work I would do it and see what the times tell you. Good luck.
I didn't feel any spin either, and on a couple vids you can see the Goodyears wadding up (vid #6 is a good example). Maybe the tire pressure was too low???????I don't know......isn't there a difference in bottom end power between the 2.4 vs the 2.8, with the advantage to the 2.4?
Maybe you need a more aggressive timing curve and / or a different converter stall speed perhaps?
When I look at the vids, I don't see you spinning at all, but not much weight transfer either. But if your not spinning, it doesn't matter.
You can see the rear of the going "boing, boing, boing" as it nears the 60' clocks. The car should transfer weight, the body drop in the rear and stay there for a while until the car gets far enough downtrack to ease up on the spring. Yours is clearly "porpoising" during the first sixty feet.
I guess I'm not following you guys. The only time I really see it bounce is 1) when it shifts, or 2) when it hiccups and loses power for a split second. In video #3, it starts to bounce right after the sputter. In #4, I really only see movement at the shift points.I agree with SD Don. You can see the rear going up and down in the first 60 ft and it looks like to me this is also causing some slight side to side movement from the panhard bar setup with each bounce. Look closely at run #4, I think this run shows it the best, you can see the car moving around.
Earl
They are set the same way Adam had them set before (when everything was working right).The C/E rear shocks are adjustable, correct? If they are, what are they set at? Mine doesn't do the bounce at all but I also have lakewood 50/50 drag shocks.