Stalling issue

[pudgy234]

So I installed a pair of comp muther thumper cams, ford racing intake, bbk 62 mm throttle body, 24lbs injectors and MSD coils. Had bama write me a tune. Car runs OK but occasionally will throw fits where it won't idle and constantly stall. Using the sct x4 tuner for my hand held device. Getting a check engine light for a lean code bank 2, cam sensor fault bank 2, cam sensor bank 2 interminet signal circuit A bank 2, system too lean bank 2 and a intake runner code (p2008). Bama performance wrote the tune. Anyone else have similar issues?
2008 mustang gt

 

[06silverbullet]

a friend on here has a bolt on car and has issues with stalling with the bama tunes as well.

 

[pudgy234]

What did he do to fix it?

 

[06silverbullet]

What did he do to fix it?

last he told me he still had stalling issues and was going to get a tune from else where.

 

[702GT]

Seek out Lito for your tuning needs.

I ran that setup for 5 years! Tune is all it takes, my car never stalled unless it was my fault.

 

[pudgy234]

Update

So my car is not stalking anymore. Bama rewrote the tune. Still have some codes they or me can't figure out p2008 intake runner code. P0345 cam position sensor A malfunction and p0349- cam sensor circuit A intermittent? Any thoughts at least on the cam sensor codes. Comp muther thumpr cams just installed with the ford racing manifold. I know I triple checked all the timing marks I made when I put the phasers back on the chains and the cams. Is it possible the reluctor wheel on the front of the phaser slipped a little a bit when I was tightening? I swapped the sensors around and the code didn't change so I know the sensor is good. Hopefully this is the cause of slight stumble on take off

 

[Marble]

Glad your problem is fixed.

Another common problem with our cars is a really dirty throttle body. It requires removing the throttle body and cleaning it with a can of throttle body cleaner. Not saying this is your problem, but it's common and if you haven't done it, should be something on your list of maitenence.

Probably nothing wrong with your cam position sensor. Almost everytime I've seen this it's the alternator causing the code. Do a search, you'll see.

 

[pudgy234]

Well the throttle body is new so that's not an issue. I've heard things about the alternators however this all happened right after the cam install. Cams intake throttle body could and plugs all happened at once.

 

[702GT]

Cam position sensors are rare to fail. You could try spraying out the connectors with electronics cleaner, make sure debris isn't fudging the contacts. As far as the intake runner code, that is all tune. Cam sensors could be alternator related, but if you didn't have an alternator problem before, I'd put it in the alternative theories category. Which brings us back to the cam sensors are tune related.

Again, I encourage you to contact Lito. I don't trust free "email toons" for life. You want a real tune, Mr. Franklin will get you there. Find me a car Lito didn't get right, I'll find you 30 Bama couldn't figure out. If I didn't have the best tuner this side of the west coast, I'd use Lito. I want to use Lito just to say "it's Lito tuned" because that's the reputation he's earned himself. You know Bama's reputation when they get a toon right? Everybody gets lucky. The rest just get a repair bill, or they get Lito to tune it!

Excuse my rant, it's relevant but off topic. All of the possible tune related issues, could be bad timing. How confident are you that you timed the motor correctly? If you're confident, the only alternative is the tune. If you think the chain might have slipped, I'd tear that timing cover off and re-time it. When you do that, and the car is still fucked up, you'll know for sure it's not hardware. If it's the alternator, it's cheap enough to swap. Again, I don't feel it's the alternator as the issue wasn't present until after the cam swap and bama toon. When you're ready to start driving your car and stop chasing bama's tail, contact Lito. I firmly believe you have a toon problem.

 

[pudgy234]

I am very confident the motor is timed properly. Hence why I wanted to remove a valve cover just to check the marks again. I've neve tried a member search... I assume Lito is on here?

 

[702GT]

http://www.tudyno.com/ <-- His website http://www.s197forum.com/forum/member.php?u=2580 <-- His member profile

If you can get the motor spun to TDC properly you could check the timing marks, but without seeing the crank timing marks I don't think it's a solid confirmation. Personally, the only way to 100% verify is to take the timing cover off. At that point it's not a big deal to set it again.

 

[Marble]

I remember when my ALT was getting ready to fail I got random odd codes and the car started running like crap. Replaced it and all was good. Not saying it's your issue, but a poorly running ALT can do strane things.

 

[thump_rrr]

I personally wouldn't trust a BBK throttlebody further than I could throw it.

 

[702GT]

I personally wouldn't trust a BBK throttlebody further than I could throw it.

I can chuck a BBK Tbody much further than my trust for it, lol. Only weighs like a pound no?

My only gripe with big ass throttle bodies on 281cid NA motors is they really aren't doing anything for you, other than making you need a tune for them. Twin 55mm is massive, thats 110mm of total inlet. Most people dont run MAF housings big enough to support it (most CAI MAF housings are 90mm.) Unless you run a JLT 110mm CAI or similar, your bottle necking before you even get to the TB.

To put in perspective the old NA cobras used twin 55's. 4v heads, larger flow, factory capable of 7,000rpm, the twin 55mm TB was still untapped potential for them.

I ran a GT500 TB NA for a while before I read that it was larger than needed. When I put the car on spray I put the stock TB back on, didnt lose any power, and picked up a few ft/lbs. Big TB's are just for looks til you build a bigger cube NA motor or FI.

 

[thump_rrr]

I can chuck a BBK Tbody much further than my trust for it, lol. Only weighs like a pound no?

My only gripe with big ass throttle bodies on 281cid NA motors is they really aren't doing anything for you, other than making you need a tune for them. Twin 55mm is massive, thats 110mm of total inlet. Most people dont run MAF housings big enough to support it (most CAI MAF housings are 90mm.) Unless you run a JLT 110mm CAI or similar, your bottle necking before you even get to the TB.

To put in perspective the old NA cobras used twin 55's. 4v heads, larger flow, factory capable of 7,000rpm, the twin 55mm TB was still untapped potential for them.

I ran a GT500 TB NA for a while before I read that it was larger than needed. When I put the car on spray I put the stock TB back on, didnt lose any power, and picked up a few ft/lbs. Big TB's are just for looks til you build a bigger cube NA motor or FI.

In Canada 2 55mm circles do not equal a 110mm circle.

Pi x radius squared = area of a circle = Pi x (Diameter squared /4)

55mm circle = (27.5 x 27.5) x 3.14159 =2375 mm area x 2 circles = 4750 mm area

4750/ Pi= 1511 square root of 1511 = 38.87= radius x 2 = 77.74mm diameter

This is a hell of a ways away from a 110mm opening.

The twin 60mm of a GT500 throttlebody is the equivalent of an 85mm throttlebody

 

[06monera96]

Once you do cam on your car... do not buy tunes
go to a shop to get it tune....

 

[fdjizm]

Didn't everyone and their mother have issues with BBK throttle bodies?

 

[thump_rrr]

Didn't everyone and their mother have issues with BBK throttle bodies?

Yes they did.

 

[Eel Mit]

P0345 and P0349 are codes set when the sensor or related wiring is f'd up ( or an alternator is dumping AC current). Not a code you would see related to cam timing / position.

 

[pudgy234]

Yeah it's going to a local speed shop this week. I pulled the valve cover. All the marks are dead on