Coyote Spark Plug Change

Sky Render

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Just turned over 50k miles. Sure, the plugs are supposed to last 100k, but I drive this car pretty hard. I'm going to change the plugs out this week. I already picked up 8 OEM Motorcraft plugs.

Anything to watch out for? Do the Coyotes have the issues with plugs seizing and breaking like on the 3Vs? And should I put anti-seize on the threads?

Thanks, muchachos.
 

travelers

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Just turned over 50k miles. Sure, the plugs are supposed to last 100k, but I drive this car pretty hard. I'm going to change the plugs out this week. I already picked up 8 OEM Motorcraft plugs.

Anything to watch out for? Do the Coyotes have the issues with plugs seizing and breaking like on the 3Vs? And should I put anti-seize on the threads?

Thanks, muchachos.

No such problem with the Coyotes, after you pull the COPs make sure there is no dirt or oil around the plugs.
 

Five Oh Brian

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I've pulled my Coyote's plugs a couple of times to check/adjust gap. Very easy to pull them and no issues like the 4.6L 3V's. Just don't pull them when the engine is cold or hot. Get the engine a little warm to the touch first. When reinstalling, use a little dielectric grease for the spark plug to COP connection and a little anti-seize on the threads. Torque the plugs to just 124 lb inches (not lb ft !!!) and torque the COP's to just 53 lb inches.
 

Sky Render

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How warm is warm? If it's 85* outside, is that "warm" enough if the car's been sitting? Or drive it around the block a few times?

LOL, I know I'm overthinking this.
 

Boaisy

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It was pretty easy when I did mine. No issues. Maybe let it run 3-5 minutes?
 

RazorbackMustang

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You put anti-seize on the threads?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

I would, just because. I used anti-seize on my old 4-thread 2-valve heads. I had those plugs out and back in at least a dozen times. Never had one seize and never had one blow out. And I always did them cold. Never heard of anyone doing them warm. New trend?
 

Boaisy

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Helps the metal move a bit better when "warm." I remember doing an O2 sensor on my dad's 87 Camaro. Would not budge at all. Had to warm the car up, and spray all kinds of penetrating oil to get it loose. Even then, he was still making up swear words. Probably didn't help that it was the factory O2 sensor, and the car did have about 200k+ miles.

However, I never tried spark plugs when the engine was cold.
 

bujeezus

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Not a Coyote but when I changed mine, I did it at ambient temperature (70*). No problem.
 

RazorbackMustang

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Helps the metal move a bit better when "warm." I remember doing an O2 sensor on my dad's 87 Camaro. Would not budge at all. Had to warm the car up, and spray all kinds of penetrating oil to get it loose. Even then, he was still making up swear words. Probably didn't help that it was the factory O2 sensor, and the car did have about 200k+ miles.

However, I never tried spark plugs when the engine was cold.

I could see that on an O2 sensor, you're talking about steel threads though. I would be cautious doing so on an aluminum head, especially since the spark plug threads are steel. They should come out relatively easily. A friend of mine some years ago hamfisted a spark plug in his 2003 GT by trying to do it warm and ended up screwing up the threads.

Not saying it's wrong, just that I've never done it that way and never had any issues doing it cold. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet. That always helps me not put too much dumb dumb shit on it.
 

Sky Render

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Meh, installing sway bars was more difficult than that.

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Weirdly enough, the stock plugs said "iridium" on them, and my new ones are platinum.

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Five Oh Brian

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Never heard of anyone doing them warm. New trend?

The Ford workshop manual for my '14 Mustang GT says not to pull spark plugs when the engine is cold or hot. Says the engine should be warm to the touch.

Metal expands as it warms, and aluminum (heads) expands more than steel (spark plug threads) so a little heat makes it easier to pull the plugs without damage.
 

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