Biggest Bang for your Buck Performance Mods

[skaarlaj]

Mine is a 6R80 car, a tune in conjunction with a circle-d 5C converter bought me over a half second in the eighth mile. All track times for me are on hoosier qtp's on 15" rims, I only gained about 1mph, so the factory converter was way worse than the factory tune.

I then I added off road headers and a revised tune that gave me another solid 2.5 tenths, but this gave me about 4 mph. I have absolutely no regrets with my modding so far. I also think the stock suspension will take a 6R80 car alot further than a standard transmission car. I'm not sure what you have for a trans.

On a side note, I raced against a red automatic 2013-14 that had a CAI, tune, and loud exhaust of some kind that was running 9.2's at the same track before I had my auto, so that tells me not to take that route, lol. I thought he needed better tires, but he claimed it wouldn't spin his street tires, and after owning a stock 6r80 car, I fully believe him now. Unless you have a PD blower, I cannot imagine keeping the factory torque converter on a Coyote 6R80 Mustang, and hoping for any kind of performance off the line. At least at my 7500' minimum DA's, these Coyotes just don't come alive at lower rpm's...........at all.

 

[46addict]

I agree about power for money, but nitrous scares me haha. Do you run your car on bottle?

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I had a bottle set up before I bought the Procharger kit. Nitrous is pretty much useless on the street because using it for more than a few seconds means breaking traffic laws and/or putting people at risk. Another thing to consider is unless you set up a Nano system, it can take 10-15 minutes for a traditional bottle heater to bring the bottle pressure up and until then you will not get the full effect.

Nitrous is great at what its designed to do but the window of scenarios where it can be used is narrow. But the bang for the buck factor is still hard to beat and I would put it at #1 in the top 5.

I would put gears or a converter at #2.
And as mentioned before, a tune should be somewhere on this list.
Then tires
Headers and/or midpipe may not give you huge gains on a stock engine but they can be great supporting mods once you add boost/nitrous to it.

 

[07 Boss]

I agree about power for money, but nitrous scares me haha. Do you run your car on bottle?

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My Mustang has a Whipple on it. But I am building a drag car and it will have two bottles and two carbs. Nitrous done properly will get you down the strip quickest for the least amount of money but you have to get it set up right and tuned properly. I agree you don't have it on tap 24/7 but that might be a good thing.

 

[J B]

Believe me I looked long and hard at the coyote kit from NX but I didnt like how they had to detune the car while N/A so that it wouldnt lean out during spray. Plus, having a nitrous backfire scares the crap outta me haha

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[J B]

I had a bottle set up before I bought the Procharger kit. Nitrous is pretty much useless on the street because using it for more than a few seconds means breaking traffic laws and/or putting people at risk. Another thing to consider is unless you set up a Nano system, it can take 10-15 minutes for a traditional bottle heater to bring the bottle pressure up and until then you will not get the full effect.

Nitrous is great at what its designed to do but the window of scenarios where it can be used is narrow. But the bang for the buck factor is still hard to beat and I would put it at #1 in the top 5.

I would put gears or a converter at #2.
And as mentioned before, a tune should be somewhere on this list.
Then tires
Headers and/or midpipe may not give you huge gains on a stock engine but they can be great supporting mods once you add boost/nitrous to it.

I definitely want some gears. Im running MT with 3:31s right now. I want atleast a 3:73. All my experience with power adders has been superchargers from an 07 shelby so I really am ignorant when it comes to NO2. And what procharger kit are you running btw?

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[tjm73]

Any nitrous system that doesn't add the correct amount of fuel along with the nitrous is a no go in my book. It should be a stand alone system in my opinion. In other words, it should be a fogger system of some sort.

 

[46addict]

Believe me I looked long and hard at the coyote kit from NX but I didnt like how they had to detune the car while N/A so that it wouldnt lean out during spray. Plus, having a nitrous backfire scares the crap outta me haha

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From what I see, backfires come from a broken WOT switch/2-step or operator error (spraying before 3k rpm or in a overdrive gear).
Looking at it optimistically, a backfire is easier to fix than melting a piston so there's that.

I definitely want some gears. Im running MT with 3:31s right now. I want atleast a 3:73. All my experience with power adders has been superchargers from an 07 shelby so I really am ignorant when it comes to NO2. And what procharger kit are you running btw?

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Mine is just a P1sc on 9psi. I can't take full advantage of the kit until the engine is built.

 

[46addict]

Any nitrous system that doesn't add the correct amount of fuel along with the nitrous is a no go in my book. It should be a stand alone system in my opinion. In other words, it should be a fogger system of some sort.

The advantage of a direct port fogger is you can tune the nitrous/fuel mix to each cylinder which ensures consistency. But I imagine a kit like this will cost as much as a blower set up.

I do agree with adding the correct mix of fuel. Whatever set up you choose should be tuned to have actual AFR meet target AFR.

 

[07 Boss]

Believe me I looked long and hard at the coyote kit from NX but I didnt like how they had to detune the car while N/A so that it wouldnt lean out during spray. Plus, having a nitrous backfire scares the crap outta me haha

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Any nitrous system that doesn't add the correct amount of fuel along with the nitrous is a no go in my book. It should be a stand alone system in my opinion. In other words, it should be a fogger system of some sort.

You should only have to pull timing while running the nitrous, not all the time. A properly set up system will not backfire.

Any good nitrous system will add fuel along with the nitrous. Whether you do that through a "wet" system or use the car's injectors, it will add fuel.

Again, it's about properly setting up the system and tuning. Seen plenty of SC'ed motors blow up with out a properly set up and tuned system. Anytime you add a power adder you need to make sure it's safe. Pulling timing and adding fuel is done with an SC tune as well as a nitrous tune.

 

[J B]

IIRC the NX kit did add fuel and was only activated at WOT. Does anyone on here have experience with this kit and if so how safe is it?

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From what I see, backfires come from a broken WOT switch/2-step or operator error (spraying before 3k rpm or in a overdrive gear).
Looking at it optimistically, a backfire is easier to fix than melting a piston so there's that.


Mine is just a P1sc on 9psi. I can't take full advantage of the kit until the engine is built.

You won't melt a piston on a 100 shot will you though??

You should only have to pull timing while running the nitrous, not all the time. A properly set up system will not backfire.

Any good nitrous system will add fuel along with the nitrous. Whether you do that through a "wet" system or use the car's injectors, it will add fuel.

Again, it's about properly setting up the system and tuning. Seen plenty of SC'ed motors blow up with out a properly set up and tuned system. Anytime you add a power adder you need to make sure it's safe. Pulling timing and adding fuel is done with an SC tune as well as a nitrous tune.

The thing about Myrtle Beach is that all the speed shops around here are stuck on LS and there arent any Ford specialists from what I have seen. So Idk if I could trust any tuning done around here

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[Dad]

I had a bottle set up before I bought the Procharger kit. Nitrous is pretty much useless on the street because using it for more than a few seconds means breaking traffic laws and/or putting people at risk. Another thing to consider is unless you set up a Nano system, it can take 10-15 minutes for a traditional bottle heater to bring the bottle pressure up and until then you will not get the full effect.

Nitrous is great at what its designed to do but the window of scenarios where it can be used is narrow. But the bang for the buck factor is still hard to beat and I would put it at #1 in the top 5.

I would put gears or a converter at #2.
And as mentioned before, a tune should be somewhere on this list.
Then tires
Headers and/or midpipe may not give you huge gains on a stock engine but they can be great supporting mods once you add boost/nitrous to it.

I can't believe it took 22 posts to get logic involved. In my opinion and experience, you build a car from the back to the front and from the bottom to the top.
Get your rear diff and brakes upgraded first. You'll notice a HUGE difference.
Then, exhaust. Fords are historically bad at breathing and need as much help on the exhale side as you can give them.
If you go on the bottle, think about the internals of your engine. The extra heat and power can damage the bottom end and if you get a tad too much and you pinch a piston ring....your wallet is destroyed because of that huge hole in your engine.
Unless you are doing this over a several years long period, I would wait until I had done everything else before getting a tune. You will need to do it again every time you make a change so wait until you are pretty much done.

 

[07 Boss]

I can't believe it took 22 posts to get logic involved. In my opinion and experience, you build a car from the back to the front and from the bottom to the top.
Get your rear diff and brakes upgraded first. You'll notice a HUGE difference.
Then, exhaust. Fords are historically bad at breathing and need as much help on the exhale side as you can give them.
If you go on the bottle, think about the internals of your engine. The extra heat and power can damage the bottom end and if you get a tad too much and you pinch a piston ring....your wallet is destroyed because of that huge hole in your engine.
Unless you are doing this over a several years long period, I would wait until I had done everything else before getting a tune. You will need to do it again every time you make a change so wait until you are pretty much done.

Nitrous is going to give you the biggest bang for your buck hands down. But start building from the ground up. Have a plan. Tires and suspension, then drive train, and then build the power. Just saying, it's probably the best way to build a car.

^5th post. I preach this to anybody I can. A dozen or so builds under my belt and this is a tried and true method to building a car properly.

 

[skwerl]

I can't believe it took 22 posts to get logic involved. In my opinion and experience, you build a car from the back to the front and from the bottom to the top.
Get your rear diff and brakes upgraded first. You'll notice a HUGE difference.
Then, exhaust. Fords are historically bad at breathing and need as much help on the exhale side as you can give them.
If you go on the bottle, think about the internals of your engine. The extra heat and power can damage the bottom end and if you get a tad too much and you pinch a piston ring....your wallet is destroyed because of that huge hole in your engine.
Unless you are doing this over a several years long period, I would wait until I had done everything else before getting a tune. You will need to do it again every time you make a change so wait until you are pretty much done.

I disagree with this emphatically. You need a tune for ANY engine mods that will affect the amount of fuel or air entering the engine. Any good tuner will provide tune updates at little or no cost as you continue to upgrade with more mods.

Start with the tune, period. Then update it as you mod.

 

[J B]

I can't believe it took 22 posts to get logic involved. In my opinion and experience, you build a car from the back to the front and from the bottom to the top.
Get your rear diff and brakes upgraded first. You'll notice a HUGE difference.
Then, exhaust. Fords are historically bad at breathing and need as much help on the exhale side as you can give them.
If you go on the bottle, think about the internals of your engine. The extra heat and power can damage the bottom end and if you get a tad too much and you pinch a piston ring....your wallet is destroyed because of that huge hole in your engine.
Unless you are doing this over a several years long period, I would wait until I had done everything else before getting a tune. You will need to do it again every time you make a change so wait until you are pretty much done.

I find it hard to believe that the coyote exhaust is as bad as you claim. Any motor with 302 cid making 420 hp cannot have a very restrictive exhaust. Maybe its restrictive if you are moving 800hp worth of air, but for 500 rwhp idk if $1000 worth of exhaust is the best use of money.

 

[eighty6gt]

Alleged poor performance of factory exhaust components is overstated by the people in the aftermarket exhaust industry.

Look at the exhaust on the new 5.0's. Tubular headers. Great big dual pipes. Even my cast 4.6 manifolds are beautiful inside (like me.)

 

[Sky Render]

Ok so I have seen a few saying tires. I just bought some 295/35r18 toyo tr1s last week but theyre not installed yet.

Why didn't you invest in some good tires?

 

[J B]

Because wheels and tires for $325

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[Sky Render]

I can't believe it took 22 posts to get logic involved. In my opinion and experience, you build a car from the back to the front and from the bottom to the top.
Get your rear diff and brakes upgraded first. You'll notice a HUGE difference.
Then, exhaust. Fords are historically bad at breathing and need as much help on the exhale side as you can give them.
If you go on the bottle, think about the internals of your engine. The extra heat and power can damage the bottom end and if you get a tad too much and you pinch a piston ring....your wallet is destroyed because of that huge hole in your engine.
Unless you are doing this over a several years long period, I would wait until I had done everything else before getting a tune. You will need to do it again every time you make a change so wait until you are pretty much done.

The amount of bullshit in this post is staggering. Have you actually worked on a Ford made after 1971?

 

[J B]

The amount of bullshit in this post is staggering. Have you actually worked on a Ford made after 1971?

In fords defense, every exhaust sucked after 1971 because of EPA haha

 

[46addict]

IIRC the NX kit did add fuel and was only activated at WOT. Does anyone on here have experience with this kit and if so how safe is it?

You won't melt a piston on a 100 shot will you though??

NX is a good brand. Nitrous kits are more or less universal though. The difference is in the solenoid brackets, and switches/buttons. The safety aspect is all in the tune and between your ears. I have sprayed a bottle's worth of 125 on my 4.6 with no issues. In a perfect world your car will take a 100 shot and probably more given that fuel quality and tune are spot on.

The thing about Myrtle Beach is that all the speed shops around here are stuck on LS and there arent any Ford specialists from what I have seen. So Idk if I could trust any tuning done around here

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I don't know South Carolina but Pro Dyno is in Fort Mill. I know they do a lot of Fords.