Wire sizes?

[Rapture]

Does anyone know the wire size for stereo harnesses. I know it's smaller than 18. Is it 20, 22?

Where do I get this size primary wire locally? I know Home Depot has some decent 18 and 16 gauge wire but I haven't seen any 20, 22 gauge.

Can I tear apart an extension cord or something?

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Radio Shack. Run the 18. Better to be over sized than undersized. As for speaker wire 16 for components an 12 for subs is what I always used in my stereo days.

 

[Sky Render]

Good luck finding a Radio Shack still open.

I get my car audio stuff from Best Buy.

 

[Rapture]

Radio Shack. Run the 18. Better to be over sized than undersized. As for speaker wire 16 for components an 12 for subs is what I always used in my stereo days.

Oh I thought radio shack closed down.

 

[Rapture]

Good luck finding a Radio Shack still open.

I get my car audio stuff from Best Buy.

I'm talking more about like these kind of wires? Which seem to be the same size as the stereo wire harness. Are they 22?

 

[Rapture]

I know 18 will work but just curious the size

 

[Rapture]

Is it ok to use different gauge for the cars computer harness? Where my tuner plugs in? Need to fix up a wire. It looks like maybe 22 gauge. Can I patch it up with 18? Will these effect anything?

 

[Sky Render]

There should be nothing wrong with increasing the size of wire.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Good luck finding a Radio Shack still open.

I get my car audio stuff from Best Buy.

Plenty still open. I've got three within 5 miles.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

The bigger question Rapture is what are you trying to achieve?

99% of stereo installs with aftermarket head units can be easily enough integrated with the use of an install kit for the make and model car. Hacking up wires, especially canbus communications bus may cost you.

As for the basic question of wire size, with respect to a stereo install it is fine to step on in gage size. Stepping down smaller than spec is where you run into issues.

 

[Rapture]

The bigger question Rapture is what are you trying to achieve?

99% of stereo installs with aftermarket head units can be easily enough integrated with the use of an install kit for the make and model car. Hacking up wires, especially canbus communications bus may cost you.

As for the basic question of wire size, with respect to a stereo install it is fine to step on in gage size. Stepping down smaller than spec is where you run into issues.

It really has nothing to do with the stereo I was just referencing that because they are the same wire size as the wire I am trying to patch up. I have been cleaning up wires in my car for a while now. What I mean by that is removing all the sticky, goey, slimmy, electrical tape and rewrapping in abrasive areas and where needed with non adhesive tape.

So there is a few bare wires that are/were wrapped in black duct tape. The specific one I'm talking about is a pink wire coming off where I plug my tuner. Was gonna re crimp and shrink tube.

I just can't stand the electrical tape. In the process I have also been removing any interior pieces that I feel are useless or have shitty clips. Kick panels, a pillar, ect. I would imagine I will be completely gutted at some point since most of the interior is attached using shitty clips.

I just want the wiring to look pretty. I'm OCD by the way.

 

[Bingo]

On a side note...get a floor mat.

 

[Rapture]

On a side note...get a floor mat.

Ok let me run out and get a floor mat because someone named Bingo on s197 forum told me too.

 

[Rapture]

That carpeting is not part of my project. It's coming out with the rear seats when the time comes. Ok Bingo

 

[Bingo]

OCD my ass.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

It really has nothing to do with the stereo I was just referencing that because they are the same wire size as the wire I am trying to patch up. I have been cleaning up wires in my car for a while now. What I mean by that is removing all the sticky, goey, slimmy, electrical tape and rewrapping in abrasive areas and where needed with non adhesive tape.

So there is a few bare wires that are/were wrapped in black duct tape. The specific one I'm talking about is a pink wire coming off where I plug my tuner. Was gonna re crimp and shrink tube.

I just can't stand the electrical tape. In the process I have also been removing any interior pieces that I feel are useless or have shitty clips. Kick panels, a pillar, ect. I would imagine I will be completely gutted at some point since most of the interior is attached using shitty clips.

I just want the wiring to look pretty. I'm OCD by the way.

oh yeah, I remember. The guy who was last messing with wiring in the trunk to clean it up, right? I'm in that realm to some degree but just not that motivated. If it ain't broke I don't fix it. That said:

If you are going to the extent of heat shrinking then do the job right and solder the wires together rather than use a crimp. Prior to heat shrinking clean the solder joint properly with Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or higher) to remove flux that may effect the solder joint afterward. Also remember that the back yard mechanics concept of "the bigger the glob the better the job" does not hold water. Proper tinning of the wires prior to making the connection with minimal use of solder is the first step. Proper cleaning of the flux is the key prior to heat shrinking. Finally while tinning the wires use caution wit how long heat remains on the wire to minimize solder wicking up into the insulation.

 

[Rapture]

oh yeah, I remember. The guy who was last messing with wiring in the trunk to clean it up, right? I'm in that realm to some degree but just not that motivated. If it ain't broke I don't fix it. That said:

If you are going to the extent of heat shrinking then do the job right and solder the wires together rather than use a crimp. Prior to heat shrinking clean the solder joint properly with Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or higher) to remove flux that may effect the solder joint afterward. Also remember that the back yard mechanics concept of "the bigger the glob the better the job" does not hold water. Proper tinning of the wires prior to making the connection with minimal use of solder is the first step. Proper cleaning of the flux is the key prior to heat shrinking. Finally while tinning the wires use caution wit how long heat remains on the wire to minimize solder wicking up into the insulation.

thanks for sharing the soldering tips. But I am still curious about something. Generally speaking... does slightly stepping up wire size for an inch or two to fix up a cut wire affect anything on wires that carry transmit data? For example wires to the computer of the car or the tuner hook up wires.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

thanks for sharing the soldering tips. But I am still curious about something. Generally speaking... does slightly stepping up wire size for an inch or two to fix up a cut wire affect anything on wires that carry transmit data? For example wires to the computer of the car or the tuner hook up wires.

It is possible. Impedance on canbus needs to be maintained at a fixed value. 120 ohms is the standard +/- 1%. Messing with shielding, and/or the twist in the wire can hamper proper data transfer which can lead to issues with coms between devices. It's best to get control of your OCD in the case of canbus data buses and leave them alone IMHO. You aren't improving anything by messing with them as they are working properly and can only put coms at risk by doing otherwise.

As for the in depth details on canbus communications I can only refer you to google and do a search to do some research on it as I am not a data protocol communications expert.

 

[Sky Render]

No.

Solder is not recommended in any high vibration environment such as automotive or aerospace. You will not find a single soldered connection on an OEM harness outside of a circuit board. Solder isn't used on wires because they are flexible, and soldering creates stress risers that can crack over time.

The proper method is a parallel splice with heat shrink.

 

[Rapture]

No.

Solder is not recommended in any high vibration environment such as automotive or aerospace. You will not find a single soldered connection on an OEM harness outside of a circuit board. Solder isn't used on wires because they are flexible, and soldering creates stress risers that can crack over time.

The proper method is a parallel splice with heat shrink.

I agree. And I've torn apart plenty of electrical tape off my car harnesses inside and out. No solder joints.

What exactly is the parallel splice? Where you point the end of the wires the same direction?