Max Effort questions

Heaten m90

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My Hoosier A7’s are ZR rated and good for 186+ MPH. Ride height, undercar/ducting, Aero and downforce are all equally important and being taken into consideration
 

01yellerCobra

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Why is everyone against turbos? I would think they would be easier to make big power with. And is there an issue with the bigger blowers snapping cranks on the later engines?

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46addict

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Why is everyone against turbos? I would think they would be easier to make big power with. And is there an issue with the bigger blowers snapping cranks on the later engines?

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If I had the budget for this type of build I would go with turbos. Nelson said that when his engines were tore down, the main bearings on his turbo setups looked better than the ones on blower setups if that means anything. But these are 1500+hp setups. Probably not a deciding factor for most people running 500-800hp.
 

Sky Render

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The minimum aero you'd need is a ducted hood (like the Tiger Racing one), a front splitter, a rear wing, and possibly a rear diffuser. I'm not an aero guru, so I'm SURE I'm missing things. But that would be a start.

And you shouldn't immediately go for 200. Start with 100, make sure there aren't any issues (like insufficient downforce on the front wheels causing no steering), then step it up by 10-20 mph at a time.
 

Rasmus

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Ok, the biggest TVS available is the TVS-2650. What about a big twin screw from frpp whipple, k bell etc. They make those pretty damned big, like 4 L and bigger..and liquid cooled if you want.

Meh, I'd go turbos for max effort. I say that having a 4.0 Whipple on a built GT500. Also have a friend with a 4.5 on a built 5.8. I'd go turbos.
 

Pentalab

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The minimum aero you'd need is a ducted hood (like the Tiger Racing one), a front splitter, a rear wing, and possibly a rear diffuser. I'm not an aero guru, so I'm SURE I'm missing things. But that would be a start.

And you shouldn't immediately go for 200. Start with 100, make sure there aren't any issues (like insufficient downforce on the front wheels causing no steering), then step it up by 10-20 mph at a time.

Apparently, the abs splitter used on the Boss-302 (track version, with the pair of support struts) will fold down, and bust off, jammed up underneath the car..at high speeds. I think that occurred when at > 150 mph, may have been slightly higher.

I would not trust the GT-500 2012.. 'rear diffuser' I installed on my 2010. Looks only, it will catch the airflow, and no doubt come apart at high speeds.

Pressure goes to the square of air velocity. 200 mph has 4 X (quadruple) the impact pressure vs 100 mph. 200 mph vs 150 mph = a 78% increase in air pressure. When you examine graphs and charts of rear wing angle vs down force vs vehicle speed, you will see the same relationship. Regardless of wing angle, the rear wing will have quadruple the down force at 200 mph vs 100 mph.

Rear wings can have their angle adjusted over a limited range. About the only thing you can do with a front splitter is to adjust its overall front to back exposed depth, by cutting it back a bit. Its then a balancing act between required downforce at the front + back of the car. It has to be balanced out, you don't want too much of either. On Vorshlags site, I believe they had to reduce the depth of their splitter, it had too much downforce for their application. And prior to that, the rear wing was tweaked for optimum downforce..to match the front splitter. Then you also have to factor in front + rear spring rates, etc, etc.

That's good advice to increase speed in small increments. Dunno if a go-pro camera would survive at higher speeds, but if it could, then the camera could be used to visually see XXX amount of deflection. Without some form of hood vents, the oem hood will bulge up at the leading edge. Hood pins would be a must..even with hood vents....at 200 mph. Don't forget the brakes, brake ducts, brake pads, chute, or whatever's required to slow it all down. 4000 lbs @ 200 mph is one helluva lot of kinetic energy
 
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Heaten m90

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We’ll see how the 4 grand worth of BMR stuff I’ve bought over the past few months works out, I will say their customer support guy is a sharp dude hopefully he helps design these components.

I need more help with the aero I’ve started making carbon fiber panel for underneath the car but that’s it so far. And what are your guys thoughts on the trakk pac wing??? I know it’s hideous but it’s functional....

Other good news. My duramax parts just showed up! Time to dump a hot tune in the 6.6!!!!

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98994E3D-0E05-4AEE-A058-2BAF5E8D8727.jpeg
 

Heaten m90

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I don’t have a picture handy on my new phone but watch video.... I have the carbon fiber super snake hood.... it’s not the “true fiber” version it’s quality fiber made with high quality vacuum.

Also what about using hydraulic cylinder for pressure based self adjusting wing

 

Pentalab

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Careful with any rear wing. You can't just dump 400-1200 lbs of down force onto the trunk lid.
On Vorshlags site, they depicted how the down force was ultimately carried through to the steel frame, inside the trunk, on either side of the rear license plate. It was like, I think either a tubular or square tube on each side, oriented vertically, with a flat plate on each end of each tube. The pix of it is buried on their build site.
 

Sky Render

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That hood you currently have will become a parachute over 120 mph. The only non-bespoke hood capable of venting underhood pressure that I know of is the Tiger Racing hood.
 

Pentalab

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That hood you currently have will become a parachute over 120 mph. The only non-bespoke hood capable of venting underhood pressure that I know of is the Tiger Racing hood.

If his hood is open to the inside, or a similar forward pointing hood scoop, (both with the intention of ..'cooling') what happens is you end up with air coming OUT of the hood scoop.... it simply relieves under hood air pressure, and not very good at that. The oem GT-500 twin heat extractors worked pretty good. They are located between eng rad..and eng. That places them at a low pressure point on the hood. The back end of the hood, close to the windshield area, is a high pressure point, which is less effective for heat extraction / relieving under hood pressure.

I don't think he needs too much. But if you can't relieve under hood pressure, that pressure has to go somewhere...and typ ends up coming out the bottom, on either side of the block. The last thing you want is a ton of air coming out the bottom, making the car feel..'floaty' at high speeds..(think mid 70's vettes). You also have that eng cover, covering the bottom from the lower front grille..and aft. If a splitter is used, and built right, it ends up taking the place of that bottom oem cover.
 

RocketcarX

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Does BMR make $4K worth the stuff for our platform that will all fit the car at one time?
 

RocketcarX

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$2,000
$1,000
$700

Easy, Just getting started with these items
touche, lol. I have 90% of the stuff you linked plus the other chassis braces they make as well as strange struts (no watts link or swap bars) and didn't spend near that much, I have about $2600 in my BMR setup, to be fair, some of the linked parts kits overlap.
 

AndrewNagle

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touche, lol. I have 90% of the stuff you linked plus the other chassis braces they make as well as strange struts (no watts link or swap bars) and didn't spend near that much, I have about $2600 in my BMR setup, to be fair, some of the linked parts kits overlap.
just having fun...... I have a bunch of their stuff on mine as well and doubt I hit the $4K mark
 

Heaten m90

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I thought this scupp would put the low pressure pocket in front of the leading edge, as long as the undercar was setup right(my carbon fiber panels) Somewhat Synonymous to using hollow point bullets for long range rifles(Improved flight characteristics)..... or at least that’s what I was told..

09507951-692D-4F43-8349-069EFA69F42D.jpeg
 

Heaten m90

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Pentalab can you weigh in on this one more time. I’m going to block the air from escaping from the bottom of the car, the inner fog lights are going to become ducting for front break cooling, main scup will be ducted to the intake only, extractors Will remain as heat diffusers. I don’t understand the concern here?!?!?!?!?!?!?
 

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