Tech question on painting Polycorbanate SHR louvers

MrBottleneck

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So, what method is best for painting these. I plan on having a buddy thats a good painter at a body shop do it but, was there any tech tips from others that have done or had them done?
Did you paint single stage urethane or bc/cc?
What primer did or do you recommend?

Thanks
 

groundpounder

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I think SHR actually did a write up on how to paint these. Go to the product page and look towards the bottom.
 

AndrewNagle

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2005-09 Flush Mount Louver Suggested Painting Tips
While we offer our louvers pre-painted, we realize a number of our customers either want to tackle painting on their own, or give these directions to their local paint shop to assist them in getting the job done right on the first try. Please understand that this is a basic outline of how our painters at SilverHorse Racing have successfully painted over 1,000 sets, and is not meant as a detailed how-to guide for proper painting and safety techniques. It is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY if you are painting these louvers or are having them painted to understand basic automotive painting techniques and safety precautions prior to starting this project.
• Start by thoroughly washing the louvers in a soap and water solution to remove any stray oils left by handling or the actual molding process. Allow to dry.
• Use Dupont Plastic Cleaner 2319S or equivalent on pieces.
• Sand injection “gate” at top of part smooth to surface, and sand edges as needed.
• Install provided masks on exterior of part, floating masks into position with
normal window tint “wet” installation techniques. Mask underside of part to protect from overspray – paint should be able to be on “edge” of lip, but not on bottom side where it will be urethane-glued to the vehicle. All paint will be applied to the exterior only, none to the inside of the parts.
• Scuff / sand all surfaces to be painted with fine sanding paper.
• Again clean part and allow to dry using Dupont plastic cleaner 2319S, or its
equivalent.
• Apply Pas-Stick 2322S Adhesion promoter or equivalent.
• Apply a black primer of your choice to the exterior of the part – we use Dupont
EP-789 or A-4260S Primers.
• If spraying a very light color, a light sealer coat may be added to help “bring up”
the color. (helpful on yellows and whites)
• Sand if needed.
• Spray color coats – we use Diamont R-M color or Martin Sr. Matrix color both
with excellent results.
• Spray clear coats – a low-solid clear will not build film too thick for the corners of
the parts, BASF Limco LM4000 Low Solid or RSC-220 will work well here.
• Allow to dry thoroughly (we let pieces dry for two days) then using an X-Acto
razor carefully trim around the masks prior to removing them.
• 3M finesse-it compound or equivalent can be used to polish parts, clear areas, and
in general any issues that may crop up during the painting process, by hand. It is not recommended that power buffers be used, as it is very easy to burn through the paint and burnish the part.
NO HEAVY COATS !! – Heavy coats (what you would use for most refinishing of body components) can cause paint solvents to penetrate the primer and crack color coats / underlying primer coats (it will have the appearance of cracked plastic although this is not the case). This is NOT a failure of the part, but a failure to keep Lexan from reacting and possibly rejecting the solvents in the paints. Water-based automotive paints may not have this limitation. Use of a
detail gun rather than a full-size gun may aid in proper coverage.
 

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