Which stage 8 locking header bolts?

[gray2014gt]

I hope I'm posting in the right place and not asking a question that's already been answered. I have an 2014 mt82 gt planning on getting long tubes at some point in the near future I want to get some stage locking header bolts. But stage 8 shows two different ones the 8914 and 8914c. Which would I need for my car? TIA!

 

[86GT351]

Ford 5.0L & 6.2L Coyote* 8914 (16) 10mm – 1.25 x 25 6pt DHH Buy Now
Ford 5.0L & 6.2L Coyote* 8914C (16) 10mm – 1.50 x 25 Buy Now
4.6 & 5.4 Liter Modular 8906 (16) 8mm-1.25x25mm bolts 6pt DHH Buy Now
2005 & Newer Modular 8906M (16) 8mm-1.25x25mm bolts 6pt DHH

 

[gray2014gt]

Which one do I need though? 8914 or 8914c?

 

[86GT351]

Either will work. Google is your friend

 

[gray2014gt]

I've googled it no definitive answer which would one I need I guess I'll just pull stock exhaust manifold bolt and figure out from there since no one will just say which one I would I need I don't understand why that's so hard to do thanks for your time.

 

[86GT351]

I've googled it no definitive answer which would one I need I guess I'll just pull stock exhaust manifold bolt and figure out from there since no one will just say which one I would I need I don't understand why that's so hard to do thanks for your time.

It's also not hard to call Stage 8 if you have a specific question that "Nobody" can answer for you.

 

[gray2014gt]

It's also not hard to call Stage 8 if you have a specific question that "Nobody" can answer for you.

I thought the point of a forum was to help and answer people's questions if they don't know and someone else does guess not nowadays I won't be wasting my time with this forum again.

 

[Midlife Crises]

But stage 8 shows two different ones the 8914 and 8914c

Your choice of headers and gaskets will determine which bolt set would be the best match. How thick are the flanges and how thick or crushable are the gaskets? I don’t have a 5.0 but I hate bolts bottomed out in a hole so I would order the shorter set and use thin, metallic gaskets.

 

[gray2014gt]

All I was doing was hoping to get an answer from others that know way more than me.

 

[86GT351]

All I was doing was hoping to get an answer from others that know way more than me.

The best source is always the vendor.

 

[Flusher]

All I was doing was hoping to get an answer from others that know way more than me.

I haven't tried installing on a mustang yet, but I will try to answer why nobody answered.

Have installed several sets on various muscle cars and my Jeep ZJ.

The first problem I had was, the sets specifically for the vehicle that I was installing on, didn't fit exactly the way I wanted. In my case, the kits were probably intended for 1/4" flanges. With flanges 3/8" or 1/2" thick, I didn't get 1.5x to 2x the diameter of thread engagement. For some reason, the 289-302-351W kits had longer 3/8-16 bolts that worked better for me.

All the part numbers listed by 86GT351 have a length of 25mm (~1"), the only difference between the 8914 and 8914C is the thread pitch. I don't know enough about these engines to comment on which one you would need.

I would pull one of your manifold bolts and take it to a hardware store and match it up to find the correct pitch (assuming you don't have a thread pitch gauge).

Maybe a call to Stage 8 could give you a definitive answer. Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[gray2014gt]

The best source is always the vendor.

I know and understand that but I figured someone else here has been through the same thing and would know the answer so I asked.

 

[gray2014gt]

I haven't tried installing on a mustang yet, but I will try to answer why nobody answered.

Have installed several sets on various muscle cars and my Jeep ZJ.

The first problem I had was, the sets specifically for the vehicle that I was installing on, didn't fit exactly the way I wanted. In my case, the kits were probably intended for 1/4" flanges. With flanges 3/8" or 1/2" thick, I didn't get 1.5x to 2x the diameter of thread engagement. For some reason, the 289-302-351W kits had longer 3/8-16 bolts that worked better for me.

All the part numbers listed by 86GT351 have a length of 25mm (~1"), the only difference between the 8914 and 8914C is the thread pitch. I don't know enough about these engines to comment on which one you would need.

I would pull one of your manifold bolts and take it to a hardware store and match it up to find the correct pitch (assuming you don't have a thread pitch gauge).

Maybe a call to Stage 8 could give you a definitive answer. Sorry I can't be more help.

I'm planning on buying thread pitch gauges never had a use for them before now I just figured someone on here had been through the same thing and would know the answer so I asked.

 

[crjackson]

The problem is (as I understand it) Ford used both types on same year engines, and there’s no way to RELIABLY know what you have until pulling the originals. I guess you could purchase both, use what’s required, then return the unused set.

I was going to uses these as well, but found them to be an unnecessary addition. My builder assured me that with quality gaskets (oem I suppose) and proper torque procedures, these aren’t necessary on a Coyote install.

30k miles later, he seems to have been proved right. At least on my car (2014 Track Pack) with Kooks LTH.

Also, with regards to length… I would guess it depends on the brand and specific header pipe selection. Different brands possibly have different flange thicknesses, so I suspect it’s nearly impossible to catalog-commit to a specific set-size that works for all, just based on engine/year.

 

[gray2014gt]

The headers I eas thinking about getting are pure stainless steel buddy said that they'll cause bolts to lossen and have to keep tightening them said I nedd locking bolts. I don't have any experience with headers so took his word know about stage 8 locking bolts don't know of they're actually necessary.

 

[crjackson]

The headers I eas thinking about getting are pure stainless steel buddy said that they'll cause bolts to lossen and have to keep tightening them said I nedd locking bolts. I don't have any experience with headers so took his word know about stage 8 locking bolts don't know of they're actually necessary.

My headers are 304 stainless-steel, and it doesn’t get any better than that AFAIK. My installer is a premier Mustang performance shop (builder/installer/tuner). He told me to save my money as it not needed with my setup. I trust him, and I wasn’t disappointed.

Do what you need/want to do, but “my buddy” provided information is usually worth exactly what you paid for it.

I like the idea of the bolts, but I doubt you need them.

 

[Midlife Crises]

You can take one of your original bolts to home depo or Lowe’s and compare the threads to the samples they have in the fastener section. Then you know what set to order.
I have to agree that the locking bolts are probably not needed. I removed my Kooks long tubes last year. I installed them in 2010. None of the bolts were loose and the solid aluminum gaskets showed no sign of leaking. Another point is some of the header bolt locations are so obstructed there is no way to install the stage 8 locking hardware.

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

Use the stock bolts. They work perfectly.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Another point is some of the header bolt locations are so obstructed there is no way to install the stage 8 locking hardware.

The easy solution there is to reuse the original studs/nuts, and reserve use of the stage 8 locking bolts/washers where you can gain access with a socket.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Use the stock bolts. They work perfectly.

The factory studs are to long and will contact the tubes in some locations.