The same exact thing with the BAS. I never got any spark increase out of it - I took it off and as soon as I upgraded to a bigger gauge for the coil wires - blowout disappeared.
Where you able to measure an increase in voltage on the primary side with the BAS? Fundamentally, increasing primary voltage is a VERY sound idea. Of course, I have NO idea if they did it right on the BAS.
And in general, Power (P) = Voltage (V) * Current (I). P is also = V^2/I and I^2*R. The more power you get into that coil, the more power available to generate a high voltage spark on the secondary. Decreasing the resistance on the primary will allow more current to flow through the coil, aka: more power. But increasing voltage should do the exact same thing.
Doing what you did and upgrading the wiring to the coils (aka: decrease primary resistance) is probably the very best first step (and the cheapest as well). After that, you can either change the coils to something that will store more energy in the primary or up the voltage at the coils to get more energy into the spark.
Of course, as far as coils are concerned, all we ever hear is "they are xxk volt coils" which doesn't tell you a damn thing about how well they actually work. You could rewind the secondary on a coil until it could produce a million volt spark. Unfortunately, it would have so little energy in the spark that it couldn't light off the Hendenberg, let alone a blown engine with several hundred psi of cylinder pressure. So, they need to use more, thicker wire and/or better cores in those "high voltage" coils to actually store more energy in the primary. That, of course, means the coils WILL be bigger than the stock ones by default. The ones I have seen all look to be the same size as stock (with a different paint job of course), so I have to wonder just how much more energy that can possibly have. And I have yet to see any of these companies actually release detailed specs on their coils.
Driving the primaries with more voltage is definitely a good thing. I = V/R, so increasing voltage will also increase the current flowing through the coil. More voltage and more current equals more power stored in the primary of the coil. That's all good. And you get this extra power with the exact same coil that came on the car.
But that only works if the BAS is actually implemented correctly and actually allows that extra current to flow through the coils. Which assumes the wiring and the coil can handle that extra power.
One other thing to keep in mind folks: It takes XX volts to ionize the spark path and generate a spark across the plug. That value changes depending on a LOT of variables, but it goes up with increased cylinder pressure (which is why spark blow out is a big issue for blown cars, but almost unheard of on stock cars). If it takes 20k volts to ionize the spark path and you have "60kV" coils on it, you WILL NOT have 60kV going across the plug! You will have 20kV. And falling fast as the current further ionizes the conductive path across the spark gap. I have no doubt that even stock coils on stock wiring can generate enough voltage to ionize the spark gap on pretty much ANY blown engine. The problem is that by the time it does, it has used up SO much energy generating that voltage, it doesn't have any energy left for current flow. Which leaves a very weak spark that is easily "blown out" as it just doesn't have enough energy to light the fire.
Here is an example of why not just a spark is needed, but energy as well. I built an ignitor circuit for my grill ( I was tired of the stock grill ignitor not working half the time). This circuit was pretty much a single cylinder electronic ignition system using a coil from my old pickup (1981 Ford F100) and one of it's old spark plugs. It was microprocessor controlled and used an IGBT that was designed for switching ignition coils. It could easily generate a 400hz spark (equivalent to that V8 running at 6000 rpm) across that plug. A nice purple spark too.
When I went to test it, the bloody thing couldn't light my LP grill! I spent about 5 minutes scratching my head (and cussing) trying to figure out what the hell was going on. Then I finally remembered that whole pressure thing. It takes MUCH less voltage to light a spark at atmospheric pressure than it does inside our engines after compression. MUCH less. So, there is actually very little voltage across the spark. The current is limited by the secondary coil winding resistance (and the resistance across the spark gap), so I had VERY little energy in the spark, even though the coil could fire it effortlessly.
I went back in the house and grabbed board and mounted a couple of copper wires on it with a 5/8" gap (yes, 675 thousands). The coil fired that almost most as easily, but it was DEFINITELY dumping a LOT more energy into that gap than the plug. Back to the grill and the ignitor lite it off instantly, as expected.
So just keep in mind that there is a hell of a lot more going on in an ignition system than "voltage"...
myself..................
myself............
