Brake pads for track use only?

[Chris B.]

When my current set of Hawk HP+ pads wears down more, I'll switch to HPS pads for street use and get a set of track use only pads for track days.

I've looked at different compounds and wondered what everyone else is using and how they are working. I also received a graph of the different Hawk brake pad compounds, their temperature range, and their friction levels from one brake parts vendor. Its available here:
http://www.andrew-racing.com/compound comparison chart.pdf

After looking at that, it made me wonder why the DTC-30 compound isn't sold as a dual purpose street/track pad. Its working temperature range is 100-1100 defrees F. It has more friction than the HP+ and Black compounds, and its optimum temperature range is 200 F to 1000 F. It appears that it would be a great dual purpose street and track pad.

I currently have the Quantum Motorsports bake cooling ducts installed on my car along with the stock calipers and Ford OEM rotors. I was looking at the different brake pad compounds. I think I may need to try some temperature sensitive paint on the edge of my rotors during my next track day to see how hot the rotors get to select my pad compound. I also was wondering how much rotor temperature varies between different tracks.

 

[Sleeper_08]

Do a search on this forum on Carbotech and you will hopefully find some good threads.

This year I'm switching from Hawk HP+ to Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear.

Note that I've been running the GT500 Brembo kit and Quantum Motorsports duct kit.

Tomorrow I'l hopefully get to find out how the new pads work but right now there is a chance of showers

 

[STEVE_POE]

hawk dt 70 front dt 60 rear

 

[Philostang]

Wish I had some experience to help you out on the DTC-30s.

I've heard/seen very good things about Poe's suggested pad combination. They'll take just about whatever you can dish out to them.

One note, if you're bent on doing Hawk HPS pads on the street (very nice choice, btw, I loved mine when I ran them) then you can't run any Carbotech pads on the same rotors. This means to swap to their pads for the track you would need a dedicated set of rotors used exclusively with their compounds.

What I do is run Carbotech Bobcats on the street (very similar in feel to the HPS pads) and then XP12/XP10 (front/rear). That way I'm just swapping pads until the rotors give up the ghost. It's a ton easier to swap pads only than to swap pads and rotors.

Best,
-j

 

[Sleeper_08]

Philostang

Do you swap out the rear pads for the Bobcats on the street or only the front ones?

The rears are always a pain because of screwing the calipers back in but with the GT500s swapping out the front pads is a breeze.

 

[Philostang]

Yeah, with the Stoptech's the fronts are insanely easy to swap. I'm kind of hit or miss with the rear pads...actually, with all the pads. If I'm not going to be tracking the car for a few weeks, I'll swap, otherwise I'm just as inclined to leave the track pads on and park her.

-j

 

[Stangmeister9]

try the HT10's from Hawk they work great on the track and you can (although not recomended) drive home with them. they do squeal and dust, but again all pads do!

i run the Ht10's front and the HP+'s on the rear.

 

[ArizonaGT]

DTC30s are formulated for dirt track cars, aka really light vehicles that don't require much torque to lock the brakes. Guys I know that drive miatas tried them and destroyed a set after a single day, and they wouldn't stop the car.

DTC60 for Mustangs if you've got the stock ABS, 70s if you're running the FR500S HCU and ABS block.

 

[Vapour Trails]

The rears are always a pain because of screwing the calipers back in but with the GT500s swapping out the front pads is a breeze.

I heard at a lot about how difficult is was supposed to be, but I bought the little cube tool and it took no more than 2 minutes and a bit of muscle.

 

[Philostang]

I heard at a lot about how difficult is was supposed to be, but I bought the little cube tool and it took no more than 2 minutes and a bit of muscle.

UGH! The cube...

I tried that for a while and just hated it. If you have the dexterity to make it a slick affair, more power to you! I had it constantly slipping out of the piston grooves. Ish, bad memories.

I picked up a cheapie HF caliper tool set ($25) and it is TONS easier than the cube - at least for me. I love my caliper tool set.

Best,
-j

 

[pcdrj]

DTC30s are formulated for dirt track cars, aka really light vehicles that don't require much torque to lock the brakes. Guys I know that drive miatas tried them and destroyed a set after a single day, and they wouldn't stop the car.

DTC60 for Mustangs if you've got the stock ABS, 70s if you're running the FR500S HCU and ABS block.

I'm running DTC70 fronts and DTC60 rear, Brembos up front with original module and brake ducts. Last track day I discussed this setup with a Hawk rep who happen to be there. He did recommend dropping to DTC60 up front due to the Brembos. Said it should modulate more evenly. I ended up running the day on DTC70's and was very happy with braking balance and stopping power.

 

[ArizonaGT]

I currently have DTC70s and they will set off the ABS at 100mph...so I don't think THAT much brake torque is necessary But they do stop great and don't fade at all.

 

[Chris B.]

I've had several people suggest DTC-60's in the front and HT-10's in the rear instead of using DTC-60's on all 4 corners. Anyone tried this combination?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I ran that combo last year with great success! The balance is right (turn OFF the TCS!!), and the pads will last forever... If you step up to a 4-pot kit up front with 14" rotors, then just stay with the DTC-60 up front, and move the rears up to the same compound. Works like a treat.