Engine noise after crank shaft pulley install

[Procharged06]

First off let me say that I have done a lot of searching and couldn't find an answer to my problem.

I recently removed the Procharger S/C from the car. While removing the crank bolt the crankshaft turned in a counter clockwise direction. I then removed the pulley to fix a small oil leak. The pulley was then reinstalled by tapping on it with a rubber mallet to get started, and then using a longer used bolt to pull it the rest of the way on. The new TTY bolt was then torqued properly.

Now when I start the engine I am hearing a rattling type of noise coming from the engine. It sounds like it's from the area of the crankshaft pulley. Could the crankshaft turning while pulling the pulley off have caused something inside the engine to be out of place? Any other things that I should check?

 

[Casey4s]

You are not supposed to use a mallet to start the crank pulley you should use a temporary longer bolt or damper install tool.

 

[Procharged06]

You are not supposed to use a mallet to start the crank pulley you should use a temporary longer bolt or damper install tool.

Did this somehow cause damage to the internal parts of the engine? The pulley wasn't hit hard with the mallet, just a couple light taps to get it to stay on the shaft.

 

[Riptide]

If I were you. I'd get a new bolt. Remove the bolt that is in there. Remove the pulley. Clean up the snout again. Put fresh gasket maker in the keyway on the pulley. Then reinstall it but this time do it properly.

See if that fixes it.

 

[Procharged06]

If I were you. I'd get a new bolt. Remove the bolt that is in there. Remove the pulley. Clean up the snout again. Put fresh gasket maker in the keyway on the pulley. Then reinstall it but this time do it properly.

See if that fixes it.

That's what I was thinking I was going to do. Maybe I got the pulley started on the shaft crooked? Would that cause bottom end noise due to the shaft not spinning right?

 

[Riptide]

As tight as it fits over that keyway and the snout I'd be surprised you could have got it on crooked. Who knows though. I'd start with the simple stuff and work from there. Begin by getting a new bolt and take your time reinstalling. See what that does for you if anything. The bolts cheap and it shouldn't take real long to do the reinstall.

You're not supposed to use a mallet but TBH I'd be surprised if that really caused a problem. I've seen mechanics quite often do things they aren't "supposed" to do and get away with it. Over and over.

 

[Procharged06]

What about the crankshaft turing while I was trying to remove the bolt? Would that cause any internal problems?

 

[Casey4s]

Most pulleys have some rubber parts for dampening and you may have damaged something. I would do as "Riptide" suggested. Make sure you follow Fords torque specifications and sequence.

Good luck to ya...

 

[Casey4s]

What about the crankshaft turing while I was trying to remove the bolt? Would that cause any internal problems?

You should stop the crank from turning in order to properly torque the bolt. Just put the car in 1st gear with the E-brake engaged.

EDIT: Never use an impact wrench to tighten the crank bolt BTW.

 

[Procharged06]

You should stop the crank from turning in order to properly torque the bolt. Just put the car in 1st gear with the E-brake engaged.

EDIT: Never use an impact wrench to tighten the crank bolt BTW.

I had the maual trans in 1st with the brake engaged and that's when it turned. The pulley probably turned 180 or so. I then put the trans in 4th gear and that stopped it. The bolt was taken out and put in with hand tools.

I forgot to say that I also replaced the stock fuel injectors, stock fuel pump, and put the stock tune back in. I don't know if any of that would cause anything.

I tried to upload a video clip of the sound, but couldn't get it to upload. The sound is sorta like a "gravel in tin can" sound. I took out 39# injectors and really wouldn't think the stock injectors would be this noisy.

 

[one eyed willy]

i thought the tranny had to be in reverse....but hey,what do i know?

 

[Riptide]

It's hard to avoid the crank moving at least a little bit. I had my manual in 4th and it would still turn about 1/4 turn when I went to torque the bolt down.

BTW I had to use an impact wrench to finish that last 90 degree turn to torque the bolt in. I tried a breaker bar but hell if I could get it to go the last 45 degrees. I had to mark the position of the bolt and get out the impact tool. I know in TacoBill's writeup it came to that as well.

 

[Casey4s]

I had no problem with the torque sequence using a breaker bar and torque wrench, my car is an automatic BTW. I did remove the old one with an impact but Ford and Steeda both emphasize do not use an impact to install. I read on one of the forums just a few days ago that somebody actually broke a crank bolt in the snout and had to drill and extract it.

 

[psfracer]

the sound you describe sounds like something is loose and when the engine is running its being tossed around. Maybe by banging on the balancer you knocked something loose---or maybe a loose bolt is somewhere it shouldn't be? If you didn't torque down the bolt enough perhaps the big washer behind the balancer bolt is loose?

 

[Riptide]

I had no problem with the torque sequence using a breaker bar and torque wrench, my car is an automatic BTW.

The last step in the sequence is to make a 90 degree turn. You must be a pretty strong guy because there was no way in hell I could get it to move the last 45 degrees of that turn without the impact. I had the breaker bar on there and tried like hell.

I did remove the old one with an impact but Ford and Steeda both emphasize do not use an impact to install.

Odd. Steeda didn't have any notation for that in the instructions that came with my UDP set. Maybe it's a recent addition.

 

[LASO]

i thought the tranny had to be in reverse....but hey,what do i know?

Wouldn't the highest gear (5th) hold it best?

 

[94tbird]

yes it would. i always had to use 4th or 5th

 

[Casey4s]

The last step in the sequence is to make a 90 degree turn. You must be a pretty strong guy because there was no way in hell I could get it to move the last 45 degrees of that turn without the impact. I had the breaker bar on there and tried like hell.
Odd. Steeda didn't have any notation for that in the instructions that came with my UDP set. Maybe it's a recent addition.

No I am not all that strong, I am 62 with a bad heart, I just used a 25" breaker for the last 90 deg. I did have to lean into it with my 185 lbs, but you are NOT supposed to "bounce" the breaker. The best thing is to just lock out the flexplate/flywheel so nothing moves. I did mine by myself in my driveway last August in 2 hours or so.

 

[Casey4s]

Wouldn't the highest gear (5th) hold it best?

Yeah, you are right I have an Auto so just I didn't think about 5th on a manual.

 

[Procharged06]

Thanks for all the responses. I am going to pull all the pulleys back off and replace them with new bolts. Hopefully it is just a washer rattling around. Start there with the easy stuff.