header install not going good ?????

gotsboost

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Ok after doing alot of searching the past 2 weeks about header installs I started mine this morning. I am 6 hours into it and dont even have one manifold off yet. It is mostly because I havent went to get a 13m ratchet wrench. But my questions are how is the dip stick removed. Do I just take the bolt out of the bracket and pull? Also I dont have another jack to jack up the motor and so Im trying to do it without. Im only doing shorties. I cant seem to get to the bolt on the passenger side second one back. Can this be taken out without removing the mounts. Also if I end up needing to move the steering shaft. I take the 2 bolts out on the rack and the one at the top of the shaft and pull and it should come out right. I read that if the steering wheel moves it can mess stuff up. Do I need to mark any thing when removing the shaft? Also if I end up needing to jack the motor up then how do I do it. Where does the jack go and do I take all bolts out of the mounts and just remove them. Also I was looking I have a strut tower brace so this would need to be removed and my car is already on jack stands can I take the bolts out of the top of the brace without the front suspension falling. Sorry for all the questions but this shit is hard by myself. I have gone over both of the write ups on this forum but both Have different ways of doing it and not all info I need is covered.:helpme:
 

b00stedgt

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Do yourself a favor and remove the motor mounts dip stick and steering linkage. I tried to do it without disconnecting the steering linkage but it just wasnt worth all the fighting to try and get it in there.
 

05xgt

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If they are the FRPP shorties they are virtually a direct replacement for the stock manifolds. Just re-install opposite of removal. Shorties are simple compared to LTs. No engine raising is nec. However you do have to remove the dip stick, and yes remove the bolt twist and rotate the stick out. It is also nec to remove the starter to get to bolts on the pass side. BE SURE TO DISCO THE BATT! or it's prob gonna look like the 4th of July sooner than later. Fingers will be put in positions you never thought poss. along with a few minor cuts and bruises not to mention a few choice words. Do yourself a favor and leave a couple of oem studs in place to hold new gaskets and headers in place until you get new bolts started, then remove the studs if you wish. As far as the sterr col goes it will sep at the joint and only installs one way. Just be sure your wheels are straight and take a mental note of the steering wheel pos to be sure.
 

gotsboost

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What about that bolt on the passenger side. They Are BBk's Im thinking of droping this bitch off at the shop and going to the bar. lol
 

19COBRA93

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I did my FRPP shorties on my back in my garage in about 4 hours. A good selection of sockets and wrenches is key. The motor mounts don't need to be touched, but I think I unbolted the bottom bolt on the steering shaft. Most of the upper nuts can be done from the top.
 

808muscle

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Trying to install headers without a 13mm flex head racheting box wrench is just asking for torture. Spend the $13, its not the time to cheap out. Those big ass steering rack bolts, we just took one out the other loosened. Did you read timmbo's write up about headers from the MF site? Thats where I found the best info. Explains the jacking motor procedure etc.....great info.
 

Mach1Run

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I got my pypes LT in without having to undo the steering, somehow and don't ask how, I dropped it in from the top. All I used to undo the header bolts was a wobble attached to a socket with some painters tape around the wobble to stiffen it a little. Biggest headache was that most of the studs came out instead of the bolt coming off so I had to use the pypes hardware instead of reusing the OEM.
 

302

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A good rule of thumb on a header installs is this: If it doesnt need to be there, take it off.

When i helped my friend install his longtubes on his 2010, i took off the engine mounts, dipstick, steering linkage, battery, and anything else that got in the way. Went in like a charm.

When i did it on a 99 cobra, i took the whole entire Kmember off.
 

gotsboost

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done. My butt dyno likes the gain. I spent around 4 hours porting the headers before the install. Had a friend come help me get it done. Not to bad after I got the right tools and a few beers lol. took the car out after no traction all the way through second gear. I hit third and went side ways. Most of that is the 4.30's but the mid range power increase is grate. Also the exhaust is not as loud. worth the time. Really need to get some dyno numbers.
 

808muscle

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Gotboost, your exhaust is not as loud with the headers or not as loud as you expected?
 

gotsboost

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Yea the exhaust is alot quieter then before the headers. I thought it would be louder.
 

UltraKla$$ic

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Mine's damn near obnoxiously loud.....LOL!!! I can't even hear myself think inside the car at cruising speed.:lol2:
 

mikeysgt

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I think I'm definitely going to try and REMOVE my ARH longtubes this weekend. is there any way you can make a quick list of the tools I should have around to make the uninstall easier for me??

I know I need to go buy a few jackstands and another universal socket in 13mm?
 

808muscle

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Not universal socket. 13mm flex head racheting wrench.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/gearwrench/gearwrench-flex-head.htm

Basic tool set, I have this one. Some extra extensions too.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00936260000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Breaker bar for steering rack bolt. Decent jack with a scrap 2x4 to jack motor and hold into place. Gloves so your hands dont get scraped to high hell. A piece of carpet under the car so you back, ass, and sides dont get all bruised up.

Good luck, headers were a bitch. I would rather do another supercharger install.
 
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