LSDs

peetiewonder

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My Stock LSD is slipping like a mofo right now and it sucks to drive so I'm trying to decide what to do about it. I took it to the dealership and they "couldn't find anything wrong" so they wouldnt replace it under warranty, but as soon as i try to power hard out of a corner i get one tire fire.

Basically what I wanted to find out is what's good out there as far as 2-way diffs go? I've been sifting through threads for the last few days and it seems like a lot of people go with the true-trac. any recommendations are appreciated.
 

Rubrignitz

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I had a detroit tru-trac. It got noisier and noisier so I yanked it and had the original trak-lok reinstalled when I pulled the 4.10 gears and went 3.89's.

I would recommend, if you want to go torque sensing diff, either a Torsen (which have had some reliabilty concerns on later models) or DPI http://www.dpiracingproducts.com/store/rear-ends-service-parts-differentials-c-4_5.html

Not putting down on the tru-trac but I didn't have a good experience with mine. I'm considering a DPI myself but believe you may have to convert to non-c-clip axles with them. And as you can see they're not cheap. Haven't researched it yet.

Eaton's are also great clutch-type units with carbon clutch packs.

Is your car a dragstrip car or SCCA/roadcourse/track use? Some are better than others in each regard. Nevermind, just looked at your sig and you're def not into dragracing...slammed to the earth and all lol.
 

peetiewonder

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Is your car a dragstrip car or SCCA/roadcourse/track use? Some are better than others in each regard. Nevermind, just looked at your sig and you're def not into dragracing...slammed to the earth and all lol.

yeah its a street car that sees some drift time. I may end up raising the ride height for a little more functionality.
 

ArizonaGT

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I've got a brand new Eaton Posi sitting in my garage, will let it go for $400 shipped if you want.
 

19COBRA93

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The Torsen T2R is a KILLER diff, but it's expensive and not drag race friendly.

I'd suggest the Eaton Posi above, or just have your stocker rebuilt. Done right, it can be better than new.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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I'd suggest the Eaton Posi above, or just have your stocker rebuilt. Done right, it can be better than new.

Who do you recommend for rebuilding the stock LSD to make it better than new? What type of upgrades are made on the OEM unit? I'm leaning toward the Torsen T2R since the Detroit Tru-trac LSD started making too much noise after only one year.
 

Rubrignitz

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They make a carbon fiber clutch pack upgrade kit for the trak-lok, which isn't a bad differential actually. The ford trak-lok uses an 's' spring/clip instead of heavy duty conventional type springs like the eaton so you get somewhat better lockup with the eaton. The Eaton is great diff but the trak-lok rebuilt with the carbon fiber discs works too. Any shop that does driveline work can upgrade the diff.

I saw a post once in which Sam Strano and some other guys were discussing different diffs, torque-bias and such. Wish I could locate it again.
 

Infamousjim

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They make a carbon fiber clutch pack upgrade kit for the trak-lok, which isn't a bad differential actually. The ford trak-lok uses an 's' spring/clip instead of heavy duty conventional type springs like the eaton so you get somewhat better lockup with the eaton. The Eaton is great diff but the trak-lok rebuilt with the carbon fiber discs works too. Any shop that does driveline work can upgrade the diff.

I saw a post once in which Sam Strano and some other guys were discussing different diffs, torque-bias and such. Wish I could locate it again.

I totally burnt through my rear autocrossing this year, I just ordered my carbon clutches and should be installing them this week (hooray for early christmas)... For $120 I'll give that a try first and let you know how it feels to have both tires spinning again
 

19COBRA93

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I totally burnt through my rear autocrossing this year, I just ordered my carbon clutches and should be installing them this week (hooray for early christmas)... For $120 I'll give that a try first and let you know how it feels to have both tires spinning again

What rear sway bar do you have?
 

ArizonaGT

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Last edited:

ArizonaGT

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Damn, wrong kind of LSD, sorry guys, carry on.
bigdrug.gif
 

Infamousjim

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Is it possible your rear sway bar is too stiff? Or your front is too soft? Either scenario can be hell on a clutch type diff.
It's possible... But with 70k miles, 2 full seasons of autocross, and daily driving the wheels off my car I can chock it up to wear item.
I've been slowly setting up the car this season by adding parts and tuning with the help of Sam, But right now I'm happy and wouldn't change a thing (except tires of course when the budget allows)
 

Sam Strano

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The issue is much more what Jim laid out. Stock diff....... organic clutches, etc. My rear bar is far from super stiff.... in fact it's less stiff than many rears out there just for that reason, too much rear bar can play havoc with power down and diff life. For th record mine is a fairly thin wall hollow 22mm. Stock is a solid 20mm and most others use solid 22, 24, 25 and even a 26mm in one case. My bar is GT rear bar is (and yes I feel that is a little much in most cases.

Long story short.... it's not too much rear bar. And he's got more front bar too.
 

GeorgeInNePa

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I totally burnt through my rear autocrossing this year, I just ordered my carbon clutches and should be installing them this week (hooray for early christmas)... For $120 I'll give that a try first and let you know how it feels to have both tires spinning again

Where did you get the clutches?
 

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