I think i found the problem to the grinding issues...

mpf

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All said, the fluid I would recommend using is 75w90 Royal Purple gear oil with friction modifier. This is going in when I replace my driveshaft, clutch and shifter next year.
My research from August:
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40947

I followed the wiki link there, quote:
"Fully synthetic gear oils are also used in many vehicles, and have a greater resistance to shear breakdown than mineral oils. They can improve the shifting performance of "difficult" gearboxes, where the excessive slipperiness of some mineral oils can impede synchromesh action.[citation needed]"

The last sentence is important, your synchros, if bad, are what causes
grinding, in most cases. If you could rev-match perfectly, then you don't
even need a synchro (big rig) and there will be no grinding.
But i am not a trans expert at all, just some thoughts here.
 

SlowA$$5.0

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Letting your car warm up does zero to warm up the oil in a transmission. You need to drive it slowly, not changing gears like you're racing, for the first five miles or so until the trans oil has a chance to warm up. Your diff oil too. I would not be surprised at all if the cold car grinding comes from the thick ass oil in the diff not being warm as well as the trans oil not being warmed up. I get slight grinds if I try to shift too fast before it's warmed up when it's in the 20's.

So your car is not warming up when you are driving slowly?

Its like you took the time to correct me by saying the same thing I said with more sentences. :clap:
 
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VTXFrank

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So your car is not warming up when you are driving slowly?

Its like you took the time to correct me by saying the same thing I said with more sentences. :clap:

Ooops. Sorry about that. Now that I've re-read it, it is obvious how you meant it. Slightly ambiguous, but never the less, you said it!!:beer:
 

wbt

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I followed the wiki link there, quote:
"Fully synthetic gear oils are also used in many vehicles, and have a greater resistance to shear breakdown than mineral oils. They can improve the shifting performance of "difficult" gearboxes, where the excessive slipperiness of some mineral oils can impede synchromesh action.[citation needed]"

The last sentence is important, your synchros, if bad, are what causes
grinding, in most cases. If you could rev-match perfectly, then you don't
even need a synchro (big rig) and there will be no grinding.
But i am not a trans expert at all, just some thoughts here.

Only time my car is notchy is when cold. 2nd gear is the worst. I find if I shift into second a certain way, it is drastically reduced. I think a good shifter on these transmissions will fix 90% of the problems out there that are not clutch related.
 

captcarb

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I have proven (to myself anyway) that the notchy feel and the grinding IS clutch related.

It is the clutch that needs to be warm for proper shifting. Allowing the transmission to grind for shift after shift will wear out the syncros.

I have several work arounds, but the only ones that I can recommend for someone that is not really familiar with how a trans/clutch works is to double clutch it or shift to second when you are barely moving when cold until Ford figures out the fix. Allowing it to grind will lead to syncro replacement also which will probably be covered by the warranty if you really want them digging around in your transmission.

I do not let mine grind.

I would love to hear from someone that has an aftermarket clutch to know if that fixes it.
 

302

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I would love to hear from someone that has an aftermarket clutch to know if that fixes it.

I think a guy on here bought an aftermarket clutch and it took a dump on him. Not sure of who thought.
 

RSKtakR

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I think a guy on here bought an aftermarket clutch and it took a dump on him. Not sure of who thought.

i also read that somewhere here. i THINK it might of been Keyoshop or something ?
 

captcarb

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I am familiar with that case. I would really like to hear from someone that has the twin disc which involves a new flywheel.
 

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