HELP - Control Arm / Wheel Hop Questions

[Professor]

I have an 06 GT that is fundamentally stock except a JLT CAI and a tune. It's a street car and I never intend to spend my Saturday nights at the dragstrip (other than an occasional run to benchmark the car). Short term, I don't expect to do anything significant in terms of modifications. Long term, I would like to put an Edelbrock e-Force blower on her.

She's my first SN197. I've owned both a Fox Coupe and an 01 Bullitt. If I launch the car hard it has more wheelhop than the Fox and Bullitt combined ever did. It could just be the cold tires weather, but the car just refuses to hook up and the wheel hop is at least a partial culprit.

So ... I'm thinking lower control arms. I don't want the spherical steel bushings because I don't want to add NVH (unless in the form of exhaust noise). My questions (yes I know ... I'm a wordy academic ... sorry):

1) Steel or billet, or does it really matter? I like the claims about eliminating wheel hop and NVH that Steeda makes about their chrome moly tubular LCA's ( http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...w-pics-461715/), but they are double the price of the UMI's (http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=252) and don't have grease fittings, which brings me to my next question.

2) Are grease fittings needed for these? Poly bushings are often put on parts of a suspension without the need for grease (other than the initial grease) fittings. However, it may be that the amount of movement (force) on these bushings warrants grease fittings. Who wants extra things that need lubing if not necessary? Opinions?

By the way, in terms of price and looks, the Motoblue LCA's (http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05gt_r.htm) are inexpensive and billet and have grease fittings. I'm just not familiar with the brand. Thoughts?

3) Finally, does this really resolve (or even substantially reduce) wheel hop? I can't imagine that wheel hop is good for her. I don't mind tire spin ... I can fix that with tires ... but wheel hop is only cool when Steve McQueen did it in reverse.

 

[firefighterhill]

Also look into LCA relocation brackets. And if your car is lowered id recomend an adjustable UCA and mount to put the pinion angle back to spec. Im partial to BMR parts for suspension.

And just some advice/warning dont buy from Rpmoutlet. Buy from a supporting vendor. Some have had no problems but I know of plenty of people myself included that went through hell after placing an order.

 

[Razorbed]

Have a look on hotpart.com

The LCAs are the best. They have some reliable relocation brackets too.

 

[Redrocket06]

I am at stock ride height and use J&M lca as my only suspension upgrade. With a 1.8 short time I have no wheel hope with my drag radials. They came with poly grease to put on the bushings, if ungreased they prob with start making noise. J&M is inexpensive, get the job done and the quality is excellent. Wheel hop will endup killing your diff and trans.

 

[BMR Tech]

I have an 06 GT that is fundamentally stock except a JLT CAI and a tune. It's a street car and I never intend to spend my Saturday nights at the dragstrip (other than an occasional run to benchmark the car). Short term, I don't expect to do anything significant in terms of modifications. Long term, I would like to put an Edelbrock e-Force blower on her.

She's my first SN197. I've owned both a Fox Coupe and an 01 Bullitt. If I launch the car hard it has more wheelhop than the Fox and Bullitt combined ever did. It could just be the cold tires weather, but the car just refuses to hook up and the wheel hop is at least a partial culprit.

So ... I'm thinking lower control arms. I don't want the spherical steel bushings because I don't want to add NVH (unless in the form of exhaust noise). My questions (yes I know ... I'm a wordy academic ... sorry):

1) Steel or billet, or does it really matter? I like the claims about eliminating wheel hop and NVH that Steeda makes about their chrome moly tubular LCA's ( http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...w-pics-461715/), but they are double the price of the UMI's (http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=252) and don't have grease fittings, which brings me to my next question.

2) Are grease fittings needed for these? Poly bushings are often put on parts of a suspension without the need for grease (other than the initial grease) fittings. However, it may be that the amount of movement (force) on these bushings warrants grease fittings. Who wants extra things that need lubing if not necessary? Opinions?

By the way, in terms of price and looks, the Motoblue LCA's (http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05gt_r.htm) are inexpensive and billet and have grease fittings. I'm just not familiar with the brand. Thoughts?

3) Finally, does this really resolve (or even substantially reduce) wheel hop? I can't imagine that wheel hop is good for her. I don't mind tire spin ... I can fix that with tires ... but wheel hop is only cool when Steve McQueen did it in reverse.

Sounds like you surely need a remedy. Severe wheel hop is irritating, performance limiting, and hard on parts.

If you are not going to be racing at a drag strip on a regular basis...and do not intend to make "big" power...I recommend a set of solid, non-adjustable lower control arms that feature high durometer poly bushings.

A common problem with poly bushings on both ends, is a large number of S197 owners have issues with the poly bushings on the axle side on the control arm. (They spilt/tear/rip them oftenly)

The best choice, is a control arm with a poly bushing on the chassis side of the arm, and a spherical bearing/solid end on the axle side.

You will get the durability and performance of the solid coming form the axle...yet, the poly bushing on the chassis side will greatly reduce NVH transmission/amplification.

As far as grease is concerned, our bushings are engineered and designed to be used with grease. (Synthetic) Greasing them, is always the way to go, I recommend you speak with the company you plan to purchase from about their opinion, depending on which style arm you choose.

Finally, 9 times out of 10....aftermarket lower control arms, paired with relocation brackets will rid of severe wheel hop. There have been other instances, where it might not have healed wheel hop 100%, but those instances have other variable introduced, to blame.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

 

[Professor]

Relocation Brackets?

The car is at the stock ride height. Does it need relocation brackets, or is that something for lowered vehicles only? I know that Steeda talks about manufacturing with an offset ... is that what the relocation brackets do? Forgive me, I have a basic understanding of suspension components but not much specific to the S197.

 

[Kraftsman]

From what I've been told, all relocation brackets do is change your instant center. The more radical your instant center, the harder your tires will try to hook. Instant center is the imaginary line you draw straight out from your lower control arms and upper, the closer those lines meet to the rear of the car the more radical your instant center is. The same concept goes for a four link setup.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[BMR Tech]

The car is at the stock ride height. Does it need relocation brackets, or is that something for lowered vehicles only? I know that Steeda talks about manufacturing with an offset ... is that what the relocation brackets do? Forgive me, I have a basic understanding of suspension components but not much specific to the S197.

If you are at stock ride height, a quality lower control arm "should" fix your issue.

Relocation brackets are great for all vehicles looking to run a slick at the drag strip. However, if that is not in your plans, then they may not be for you.

If lowered, I recommend them on the street, track, etc.

Kraftsman made a good post, that is pretty accurate.

As far as machining offset into the arm, the factory arms are offset on the axle housing end.

Here is an example, of our arm with the offset:

BMR S197 Lower Control Arms, Poly/Spherical

Click on the image to enlarge, you will immediately see the offset on the spherical bushing end.

If you need some more info, let me know.

 

[wesleyk5]

Tubular or boxed control arms?

What are advantages/disadvantages of the two? I own a lightly modded 07 gt that I recently lowered with Eibach Pro Kit springs and wheel hop has alwways been a issue. Mods: C&l Racer CAI,Diablosport Tuner,MotoBlue UDP,Steeda Tri-Ax shifter,Pypes off-road x-pipe,Magnaflow Magnapack catback, and Eibach springs. Soon 20"s with Michelin PS2's(already have wheels and tires, just haven,t put them on yet)

 

[waketek516]

BMR or J&M

Can't go wrong with either. I'm running J&M LCAs & PHB on mine.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Sounds like you surely need a remedy. Severe wheel hop is irritating, performance limiting, and hard on parts.

If you are not going to be racing at a drag strip on a regular basis...and do not intend to make "big" power...I recommend a set of solid, non-adjustable lower control arms that feature high durometer poly bushings.

A common problem with poly bushings on both ends, is a large number of S197 owners have issues with the poly bushings on the axle side on the control arm. (They spilt/tear/rip them oftenly)

The best choice, is a control arm with a poly bushing on the chassis side of the arm, and a spherical bearing/solid end on the axle side.

You will get the durability and performance of the solid coming form the axle...yet, the poly bushing on the chassis side will greatly reduce NVH transmission/amplification.

As far as grease is concerned, our bushings are engineered and designed to be used with grease. (Synthetic) Greasing them, is always the way to go, I recommend you speak with the company you plan to purchase from about their opinion, depending on which style arm you choose.

Finally, 9 times out of 10....aftermarket lower control arms, paired with relocation brackets will rid of severe wheel hop. There have been other instances, where it might not have healed wheel hop 100%, but those instances have other variable introduced, to blame.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Exactly what I was going to say (and recommend BMR lol)

For his power level, poly bushings are just fine but he could go with spherical bearing/solid end on the axle side just to be safe - not a bad idea and the NVH he is concerned about shouldn't be an issue. I'd also add relocation brackets for his set-up and I think he'd be a happy camper.

 

[BMR Tech]

Exactly what I was going to say (and recommend BMR lol)

 

[BruceH]

Lower control arms helped mine but hop didn't go away completely until I changed the upper too.

BBR has a good price on billet arms right now. http://blowbyracing.com/bbr-0506-001.html

 

[johnny06gt]

I had severe wheel hop also--i installed a spherical metal uca bushing and adjustable uca...both from upr---wheel hop is gone...but be prepared it will make noise