Longhornd00d's Drag Racing Notebook

[LBSRACING]

A good thing about drag radials is you don't have to heat them up as much as slicks. All these people saying lite them up good all you are doing is wasting tire and M/T says you can actually hurt the tread pattern by doing to long of a burnout. 20 psi is a good starting point. Its alot easier to take air out than put in.

 

[SRTthis]

need to hit them hard and keep the power to it... so powershifting it will help a good bit. try them around 17-20lbs. dont be afraid to throw the power to them!

 

[Riptide]

Are you guys power shifting into 2nd or dumping it?


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[GT.350-R]

Are you guys power shifting into 2nd or dumping it?


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If your talking about the burn out, Yes ,just start in 2nd gear. With water on your tires it don't take much.

 

[D98GT]

I run on the ET streets bias ply however--haven;t ran on that radial

 

[3VPOWA]

i have the mt 275/50/15... 15 psi.... healthy 2nd gear burnout..... i would start off at 5k and go from there.... i had a set of 18" nt05r's that at 16 psi i would launch at 5500 and would pull high 1.6's with..

Awesome. I'll keep the RPM and PSI in mind.

With the 3:55 gear and a tire that hooks I think you will need to slip the clutch quite a bit at a higher RPM to stay in your power range.

That's what I was thinking. I feel as if I lost a little bit of torque down low with the cams. I'm definitely adding 4.10's next.

My first mistake with running race tires was I set the psi too low and was bogging. So dont be afraid to start at 20 or higher and adjust from there. Track conditions and weather all play into it.

That's probably what I'll do, start higher and just lower from there as needed.

You may have already,But if not jerk the front sway bar before you go.It might help a little.

Nope, I haven't. Is it difficult to do?

I have 275/60/15 ET Streets. I light them up in second gear for about 5 seconds and launch hard at 4K rpms. I run about 14psi. This works well for me at my power level.

Not sure what your power level is?

Yeah a nice healthy 2nd gear burnout will get you the results. Try to avoid the water when pulling up, reverse into the water, pull out and do a SECOND gear burnout.

I am so glad I got rid of that exhaust setup haha...It would have been crazy loud with the o/r midpipe that I have now

Nice! I had heard about avoiding the water box with the fronts. At the track I'm going to it's kind of hard to do.

A good thing about drag radials is you don't have to heat them up as much as slicks. All these people saying lite them up good all you are doing is wasting tire and M/T says you can actually hurt the tread pattern by doing to long of a burnout. 20 psi is a good starting point. Its alot easier to take air out than put in.

How long of a burnout to heat them would you say?

need to hit them hard and keep the power to it... so powershifting it will help a good bit. try them around 17-20lbs. dont be afraid to throw the power to them!

Actually afraid to powershift. Never done it before.

I run on the ET streets bias ply however--haven;t ran on that radial

 

[stang72]

Pulling the front sway bar is fairly easy.Four bolts connect to radiator support.Then two connected to struts, one on each side.It takes 16pds off the front and allows for full suspension travel in the front.

 

[Sharad]

15psi, high rpm launch, slip the clutch

 

[3VPOWA]

Track Outting May 7, 2011 -- Pine Valley Raceway

Went to the track tonight (Pine Valley Raceway Park, Lufkin, Tx). Ran 14 times between 4:30 - 9:30 PM. Track prep seemed good.

However, I don't know wtf I'm doing with these tires. I couldn't get below a 2.0 60-ft at all tonight. I tried them from 20 psi down to 14 psi, 2nd gear burnouts getting them really sticky. I bogged every time I tried to launch it. I tried to dump it ~5500 RPM, slip the clutch, etc etc. I do know that my BBR tune in relation to the throttle is all or nothing, so I couldn't hold the RPM steady.

I also didn't powershift. I missed 2nd on 3 runs, and I forced it on probably another 2.

Best run was:

2.039 - 60 FT
5.7374 - 330 FT
8.7469 - 1/8 MILE
81.61 - 1/8 MPH
11.3255 - 1000 ET
95.46 - 1000 MPH
13.4861 - 1/4 ET
104.05 - 1/4 MPH

I trapped consistently ~104-105 with a ~13.5 1/4 ET.

Suspension is stock. All that I have done to the car is cams, delete plates, JLT cai, MGW shifter, and exhaust. This is also my 3rd ever track outing. Don't expect to be an expert at it, but did expect to do better.

Here is a video of run of my numerous runs showing my awesome bogging skills (don't mind my dad yelling in the background):

 

[VTXFrank]

That bog on your launch means you need more gas pedal brother. You sould add 500rpm at a time until you find the sweet spot and not bog. On those tires, if you get some wheel spin during your launch, you don't try to adjust the fuel to stop it, you just let it go through 1st, it will chirp in second and you'll be hooked good. You don't want to spin all the way through first, but at the same time, you need to launch with enough RPM to not bog. So if you end up spinning halfway through first to get a good launch without bog, then so be it.

 

[tjm73]

There's also 2-3 tenth's in your shifting. I see the nose of the car falling with each shift. That's lost momentum. Are the tires breaking loose on each shift too?

 

[Digital_Synapse]

Good go first time out man.

 

[stang72]

It just takes time.You are going to have to launch higher or add some gears.

 

[Sharad]

Practice makes perfect. You'll get it. Just remember, 15psi in the tires, high rpm launch 4-5000rpms, SLIP THE CLUTCH, and hey, some UPR suspension will help!

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-suspension-package-rear-street-control-arms-05.html

 

[3VPOWA]

My first mistake with running race tires was I set the psi too low and was bogging. So dont be afraid to start at 20 or higher and adjust from there. Track conditions and weather all play into it.

This is what I feel happened to me. I bogged on every launch on that outting. I'm going to Dallas Raceway on June 3 and will start out with ~22 psi in the tires this time out. I carry a small portable air tank with me so I can always let the air out and air them back up (I did this at Pine Valley).

There's also 2-3 tenth's in your shifting. I see the nose of the car falling with each shift. That's lost momentum. Are the tires breaking loose on each shift too?

I don't believe they were. I'm not the fastest shifter out there. The torquing of the shifter didn't help any, though. It does the same thing on the street when shifting "fast."

That bog on your launch means you need more gas pedal brother. You sould add 500rpm at a time until you find the sweet spot and not bog. On those tires, if you get some wheel spin during your launch, you don't try to adjust the fuel to stop it, you just let it go through 1st, it will chirp in second and you'll be hooked good. You don't want to spin all the way through first, but at the same time, you need to launch with enough RPM to not bog. So if you end up spinning halfway through first to get a good launch without bog, then so be it.

I think that's what I need to do. I'm going to try the tires with a higher psi next time. I was ~14 psi average that night.

Practice makes perfect. You'll get it. Just remember, 15psi in the tires, high rpm launch 4-5000rpms, SLIP THE CLUTCH, and hey, some UPR suspension will help!

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-suspension-package-rear-street-control-arms-05.html

lol I'm buying suspension later on. I want to get the car into the high 12's the way she sits. I'm actually putting a nitrous kit together right now, so suspension is still on the back burner.


Also wanted to note that the DA that evening/night was 2582 ft compared to 556 ft back in January when I ran the time in my sig (pre-BBR Cam) on street tires. So I'm thinking that might have had something to do with it as well.

 

[Sharad]

yeah, that's a big change in DA!

 

[MilehighGT]

I agree the stuff is addicting. I wouldn't be afraid to powershift as I did it each pass while NA, it will help you as far as times go. I want to go back to the track badly but I am really hesitant since the Kenne Bell. One of these days.

 

[3VPOWA]

Alright. I almost have my Zex nitrous kit installed and hope to be spraying a 75 shot when I go back to Dallas Raceway June 24. Wiring the system in is all that I have left. I'll probably upgrade to a HSW plate with a KB BAP to run a bigger shot.

All of the components: Zex Blackout Kit, Zex Purge, Zex Window Switch, HSW Center Console switch panel, DynoTune Bottle Heater (pressure regulated), and an Autometer Cobalt nitrous gauge.

I bought this CirKit Boss from Painless Performance to help keep it a clean install with all of the wiring. Plan to rewire my SLP line lock to it as well instead of having it coming of the + post of the battery.

I hope to get into the low 12's with a good 60-foot; however, the DA has been horrible recently with the heat here. It was ~2700 ft last Friday in Crandall.

However, I want to work on my suspension next. This car is my DD so I don't want anything too extreme. Here is what I have in mind thus far.

-BMR LCA's w/ relocation brackets
-BMR UCA's
-BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
-Steeda Sport Springs
-Koni Yellows
-MM C/C Plates

Any thoughts?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

che torque limiters will help you out.

 

[3VPOWA]

che torque limiters will help you out.

That's something I've been looking into. I've read on here that those and poly motor mounts help, but I don't want to change the motor mounts with the cams in the car. It already likes to shake as it is.