05 GT - Cannot shift into 4th.

[Grabber]

I've noticed this has been happening within the past 2 months or so. When I first bought the car, I could shift through all of the gears pretty quickly and easily. This was using a Roush shifter.

After changing to a Hurst Shifter, for the life of this POS, when going WOT, I cannot, absolutely cannot get into 4th gear. I've attempted to give it a bit of muscle, that doesn't work. Driving normally, 4th sometimes doesn't engage immediately, but most of the time, it's fine. This only happens @ WOT.

1st, 2nd and 3rd gear engage perfect, and I can slam those gears with no problem at all.

I plan on heading to the track to get a decent time out of this car for the first time ever, and at this rate, sounds like I won't be able to make a decent pass at all.

Thanks for the help.

-Chris

 

[JeremyH]

Prothane motor mounts.

 

[Grabber]

Prothane motor mounts.

Do you really think it's from the engine Torquing too much?

Why would that only happen in 4th gear?

Do you know if there are stops I can adjust in a Hurst shifter to help this?

 

[stkjock]

motor mounts or CHE k-member brace

on my 06 I couldn't get 4th at the track once...... that didn't end well as I tried to get in gear 3x........ I was chasing down Bill from CJ Pony at the strip, caught him around the 1000' mark (he treed me hard and 60' ft'd the crap out of me - was my 2nd time at the track ever) and bang........... no 4th....... then....... no reverse.......... and 5th was tenuous.....

 

[Grabber]

motor mounts or CHE k-member brace

on my 06 I couldn't get 4th at the track once...... that didn't end well as I tried to get in gear 3x........ I was chasing down Bill from CJ Pony at the strip, caught him around the 1000' mark (he treed me hard and 60' ft'd the crap out of me - was my 2nd time at the track ever) and bang........... no 4th....... then....... no reverse.......... and 5th was tenuous.....

Wow, that sucks.

Looking at the cost of both, they are roughly the same price. Although one of them will take several hours (mounts) and the other is a quick job.

I may go the brace route, and see if that works.

So far, this car has been on and off problems since day one.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[94tbird]

Hurst uses a crap bushing on the back of the shifter. It has been redesigned so many times and they still use the crap bushing. its too soft and defectable.

That being said I would do the following:

1. Rip out the hurst shifter and get a Pro 5.0
2. Bolt the Hurst shift arm to the Pro 5.0 shifter
3. Get the CHE Torque Limiters
4. Prothane Motor Mounts

Try 1 and 2 first. If you still have a problem, then do 3 and 4

If you do all 4 at once I can all but guarantee your issues will be gone

 

[JeremyH]

Do you really think it's from the engine Torquing too much?

Why would that only happen in 4th gear?

Do you know if there are stops I can adjust in a Hurst shifter to help this?

Yes, its a much bigger issue for our cars with our remote mounted linkage shifters. Has to do with the geometry of the linkage and the stock shifter, motor and trans all have solt bushings. So when you swap in an afttermarket shifter with a little bit stiffer bushings the issue will show its self more.



Get the motor mounts. The torque limiters are a crappy bandaid. They try to hold the torqing of the motor with the trans using a solid mount to the k-member from the trans. Basicly you are using the trans to try and hold the motor in place... There is a reason the trans sits on a soft mount to help it move with the motor. If the motor doesnt move the trans wont move. So put in the more solid prothane motor mounts, helps firm everything up safely and from the source. You will be glad you did.

+1 on the Pro 5.0 much better shifter. Loved mine.


I only did the motor mounts and already had the pro 5.0 and it completely solved all my problems. Including the bucking in gear or feeling the trans moving throught the shifter while driving as well as high rpm gear lockout.

 

[94tbird]

Get the motor mounts. The torque limiters are a crappy bandaid. They try to hold the torqing of the motor with the trans using a solid mount to the k-member from the trans. Basicly you are using the trans to try and hold the motor in place... There is a reason the trans sits on a soft mount to help it move with the motor. If the motor doesnt move the trans wont move. So put in the more solid prothane motor mounts, helps firm everything up safely and from the source. You will be glad you did.

+1 on the Pro 5.0 much better shifter. Loved mine.

I say do all 4 i suggested


I will tell you in my experience, the motor mounts alone did not solve the problem. Only when combined with the torque limiters did it go away for good.

 

[Grabber]

I'm definitely going to weigh out my options as money is tight, and I don't have the confidence level to install motor mounts myself, haha.

I may try getting the CHE k member brace with TQ limiters, and swithing the shifter back to stock.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep you posted on what I decide to do and if it solves my problem.

-Chris

 

[94tbird]

the mounts are truly simple. I never worked on a car before this car 6 years ago. Now i change motors, cams, rear ends. its not hard at all. Motor mounts are a simple job, even for the novice guy.

 

[JeremyH]

Just dont do torque limiters by themselves, please! lol

It puts a completely solid mount in between two soft mounts that are designed to have play(motor mounts and trans mount). This is a ton of stress for those threaded linkages bolted to the k member to try and hold. And its in these cases that they have broke.

Idealy the best setup would be harder poly motor mounts and a poly trans mount.

The torque limiters would be a better option/design if they some kind of poly mount/bushing to absorb some of the force and allow for a little movement. IMHO.

 

[JeremyH]

the mounts are truly simple. I never worked on a car before this car 6 years ago. Now i change motors, cams, rear ends. its not hard at all. Motor mounts are a simple job, even for the novice guy.

+1 motor mounts are very easy. Like changing a tire basicly.

 

[94tbird]

my torque limiters had poly/poly bushings.

 

[JeremyH]

my torque limiters had poly/poly bushings.

That they do, wonder if they revised them for that reason. As I know intialy people were breaking them.


Also just realized looking at the picture, my convertible came with a k member brace right there from the factory. Guessing coupes dont have it?

 

[94tbird]

they've always offered poly poly. I had them way back in 2005!

I think most people chose rod/rod or poly/rod in hopes to fix the issue, when something that stiff wasn't needed.

 

[Grabber]

Yeah, if anything, I would be buying a Che K Member Brace, with the Poly/Torque Limiters.

I'm sure I can pull off installing prothane engine mounts, just not sure if I want to take on that challenge. Anything to do with the motor, I am very terrified of doing, haha.

 

[94tbird]

correct, no k member brace from the factory on coupes. Those heavy verts needed it haha

 

[94tbird]

Yeah, if anything, I would be buying a Che K Member Brace, with the Poly/Torque Limiters.

I'm sure I can pull off installing prothane engine mounts, just not sure if I want to take on that challenge. Anything to do with the motor, I am very terrified of doing, haha.

I was terrified of my motor swap. Jsut took me 30 days to do it, i went slow and double checked it all. its still together!!!!! WOOHOO

 

[Grabber]

I was terrified of my motor swap. Jsut took me 30 days to do it, i went slow and double checked it all. its still together!!!!! WOOHOO

Haha. Yeah, I am the same way. I can do just about anything else, exhaust, driveshafts, Control arms, etc.

Just don't feel terribly comfortable lifting my motor out.

 

[94tbird]

you don't have to lift it out, just one side up a few inches, then down onto the new mount. then the other side. Your not pulling the motor here. Can be done with a jack and jackstands easily.