15x10 Race stars

[Makdaddy]

James are you running the tire in the link?


This guy has the hoosier quicktime i can get fir $150.00 they are like new
but all my research says they are thin and get flats real easy on the street.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I run the hoosiers when i go to the track. I drive about 30 miles round trip to the track on them then switch back out to my radials when i get home. these are the tires i run at the track. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17601/overview/

They are really soft and i would not drive everyday on them. When these burn up im going to the tires in the link above, the et streets.

 

[Flapjack]

Here is the rest of the story. Undercoating removed to expose the spot welds:

Spot welds drilled:

Top of the plate popped out with a chisel and hammer:

Bottom of the plate cut with a cut off wheel and cleaned up with a grinder:

And lastly a little undercoating applied:

All in all not a very difficult job. There are spot welds on the bottom and I guess they could have been removed. But they would have been pretty hard to get at and I thought it would not hurt to leave the extra frame rail thickness on the bottom.

Nice writeup.

May I ask a dumb question, for the suspension-illiterate? What is that bracket for in the first place?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[jpac811]

Good thread. I also was wondering what I should throw on my 15x10s. I should be trapping around 125 once I get back from this deployment. Im on stock 3.55s and 5spd manual.

 

[firestang70]

I run the 295/55/15 MTs on the the 10 wide race star. I'm lowered with frrp k springs. They don't stick out past the fender and never a rubbing issue.

 

[Makdaddy]

I run the 295/55/15 MTs on the the 10 wide race star. I'm lowered with frrp k springs. They don't stick out past the fender and never a rubbing issue.

thats good to know thanks

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

I'm going to be running these this Spring. M/T ET drag radial 295/55-15's. Just need to buy the fronts still.

 

[Scott]

Nice writeup.

May I ask a dumb question, for the suspension-illiterate? What is that bracket for in the first place?

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When you bottom out the rear suspension that is the plate the bump stop on the axle housing fits. In addition to removing the plate you need to move the bump stop to directly under the frame rail.

 

[Captainstr8edge]

Nice writeup.

May I ask a dumb question, for the suspension-illiterate? What is that bracket for in the first place?

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its used in manufacturing.

 

[Flapjack]

When you bottom out the rear suspension that is the plate the bump stop on the axle housing fits. In addition to removing the plate you need to move the bump stop to directly under the frame rail.

its used in manufacturing.

Which is it? I see people moving their bumps afterwards, so Scott's explanation seems to make sense.

At any rate, seems like a pita. I could run MT 295-55-15 DRs without any issues, right? I have 295 Nitto 555s in there now with no issues...

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[JEWC_Motorsports]

Its where the bump stop hits.

 

[Captainstr8edge]

its both. about half the bump stop hits the bottom of the bracket. the bracket itself is used in manufacturing which is what thwart hole in it is for. its not vital to move the bump stop but if you are lowered I probably would since its more likely that you will hit it more.

 

[Flapjack]

its both. about half the bump stop hits the bottom of the bracket. the bracket itself is used in manufacturing which is what thwart hole in it is for. its not vital to move the bump stop but if you are lowered I probably would since its more likely that you will hit it more.

I'm not lowered, but I also don't want to try fabricating a relocated bump stop. I'm really just curious, is all. Someone mentioned their GM with a shit-ton of power not needing 300+ size tires. That's good enough for me.

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[Morris]

I just did that sway bar bracket relocation yesterday. That sway bar is hard as hell to bend. I couldn't bend it enough to make it not touch the relocation brackets. If I had another 1/16 it would clear but it just barely rubs as it is now. How-ever it makes no noise and articulates fine so I said screw and left it. I had already broke enough shit trying to bend that bar lol.

The bump stops I just cut in half and left them. I could clearly see that they had been hitting. I have bmr springs in the back......any chance this could be an issue? Seems as if it should be fine the way it is.

FYI for the guys who have not done this yet. Don't put too much on that center bolt when you first mount the bracket. I have a little battery impact gun that bent the crap out of the washer and the bolt too. Guess that thing was stronger than I thought or the fasteners BMR uses are just not up to grade. The instructions didn't have any torque value on them and I thought it would be worth mentioning they won't take much.

 

[Makdaddy]

I just did that sway bar bracket relocation yesterday. That sway bar is hard as hell to bend. I couldn't bend it enough to make it not touch the relocation brackets. If I had another 1/16 it would clear but it just barely rubs as it is now. How-ever it makes no noise and articulates fine so I said screw and left it. I had already broke enough shit trying to bend that bar lol.

The bump stops I just cut in half and left them. I could clearly see that they had been hitting. I have bmr springs in the back......any chance this could be an issue? Seems as if it should be fine the way it is.

FYI for the guys who have not done this yet. Don't put too much on that center bolt when you first mount the bracket. I have a little battery impact gun that bent the crap out of the washer and the bolt too. Guess that thing was stronger than I thought or the fasteners BMR uses are just not up to grade. The instructions didn't have any torque value on them and I thought it would be worth mentioning they won't take much.

you have to bend the sway bar to make the relocation bracket work?
I dont like that idea
I may sell the 10 and go with 8,s if thats the case

 

[Makdaddy]

OK they didnt say anything about bending the swaybar

 

[Morris]

Well, If you run the lower control arm relocation bracket and the sway bar bracket you have to either make a slight adjustment on the bend of the sway bar or place a small notch on each of the arm brackets.

In hind sight, now that I know exactly where the notch would need to go I could have notched it that faster than messing with the bar. You wouldn't even need to take the brackets off, you could get your grinding wheel right to it provided you don't have a huge wheel on it.

It's not a big deal either way but you need a little wiggle room one way or another IF you want to run BOTH sway bar and lower control arm relocation brackets.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

You dont have to do anything if you have bmr's new brackets. They have the provision for the swaybar.

 

[19COBRA93]

I would suggest against trying to bend the sway bar, or grinding on it in any way. Notching the relocation bracket if needing clearance, should be the only correct way to do it.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Pics of the new BMR brackets and the swaybar, these are off my car.