2 DTC P0340 and P0344

[Infamous05]

Well tonight my friend called me said she blew a tire do off to the rescue I went. I pulled my car facing hers so I could see what was doing. About half way through the change I noticed strobe lights. I figured the police had shown up until I looked up and my HIDS were going crazy in. My fogs and heads. I went and shut the lights off but left the car running. No weird noises or surging. Until I opened my door and my dome light was strobing too ( it's replaced with LED's ) and my radio sounds like a transformers movie. So I quickly finish her up and haul ass to the house. I pull on my street and my battery gauge bottoms out and then when I give it gas it shoots right back up. To normal. So now the car is sitting with the alternator off and battery off. Going to take both and have them both tested while at work tomorrow. Then buy the according culprite. I'm really hoping for a battery. Especially since I looked and mine is from 9/29/07

 

[Infamous05]

Well it's confirmed bad alternator. Taking it to ford in a few to get a new one. Going to try and get some adjustment since I've got less than 50 on the clock.

 

[LuckyH]

I just had this happen to me. Was driving home the other night. First abs and tc lights came on. Figured it was a voltage issue and turned the head unit off. Then the interior lights started to dim a bit. Headlights finally went out as I was about 1 mile from home. The last 100yds or so the car started missing. When I got home i thought it might be the terminals, so I cleaned them with baking soda and the car wouldn't even turn over. I purchased a PA alternator (130amp) from AM which should be here tomorrow. Should be up and running again by the weekend.

 

[OHHitsKB]

Reviving an old thread here. About a week and a half ago, I had the P0340 and P0344 codes. I searched around, heard about the alternator problem, replaced with a PA Performance 130 alternator. It ran fine for a day or so, then suddenly started bogging down horribly on acceleration and at cruising speeds, but only intermittently. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was a fuel issue, and that helped for another day or so. Then the car started to get real sluggish and drive like crap. That went on for about a couple of days, then yesterday I suddenly got the P0340 and P0344 codes again. I have a locked SCT that I'm getting unlocked soon, but I was able to use it to clear the codes. They came back about 30 minutes later. Since I've replaced the alternator, it surely can't be that. Any other ideas? I guess I'll replace the cam position sensors since everyone is saying they're a piece of cake to replace. Where can I get some new cam sensors, and are there any other remedies you guys would suggest?

 

[AutoXRacer]

I would look at the voltages coming out of the PA Alternator.

I bought a PA alternator and have had issues after issues with it.
First voltage cut out at 3,500 RPM, then came back at 4,000 RPM, and cut out again around 4,500 RPM. I had to send it back, the replaced the regulator and it worked fine other than I couldn't fully load the electrical system at idle.

If I turned on the lights, fans, radio, pressed the brakes, etc, alternator would only produce 12.1 volts.

I also did not like the fact that the PA did not have stable voltage.
Every time there is an electrical load like pressing the brakes, turning on lights, hazards, signals, the voltages would spike, then settle, spike, then settle (for signal or hazards example).

My experience with PA alternators is not good; I ended up getting rid of it and going back to stock Ford OEM. The stock alternator is rock solid...voltage does not fluctuate no matter the electrical load.

You may want to verify what kind of voltage you are getting from your PA? Check voltage across the whole RPM range with load and without load.

Ideally check it during night operation while pressing brakes etc...

 

[Alfiedagr8]

Reviving an old thread here. About a week and a half ago, I had the P0340 and P0344 codes. I searched around, heard about the alternator problem, replaced with a PA Performance 130 alternator. It ran fine for a day or so, then suddenly started bogging down horribly on acceleration and at cruising speeds, but only intermittently. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was a fuel issue, and that helped for another day or so. Then the car started to get real sluggish and drive like crap. That went on for about a couple of days, then yesterday I suddenly got the P0340 and P0344 codes again. I have a locked SCT that I'm getting unlocked soon, but I was able to use it to clear the codes. They came back about 30 minutes later. Since I've replaced the alternator, it surely can't be that. Any other ideas? I guess I'll replace the cam position sensors since everyone is saying they're a piece of cake to replace. Where can I get some new cam sensors, and are there any other remedies you guys would suggest?

I never had experience with this alternator but once u rule out the alternator from being the route cause. Your next step is looking for mechanical issues on the valve train. Broken timing guides. Bent phaser tab, low base oil pressure are all possible causes for these codes. I have yet to see a faulty cam sensor be the cause of this. But check it anyways. Check the resistance on the sensor and compare to the other one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Newman]

bumping a old thread...

P0340 last night
Got this code last night on the first start in 3 months.

Battery is charged. reset the codes... went for a drive and it was fine...

got up this morning to drive the car to work to fix 2 tires before i hopefully sell the car tonight .

P0340 and 0344 popped us this morning on start up..

Am i thinking the alternator????

 

[ZmanM3]

I got it when my alternator went bad but it would just be a bad battery as well.

 

[Newman]

I got it when my alternator went bad but it would just be a bad battery as well.

Batterry is 6 months old and been on and off a trickle charger . Alt I bought used in 09 .

 

[Newman]

I also read somehow that I may have to complete a drive cycle . Since the car drove fine last night

 

[01yellerCobra]

Do codes for both sensors have to come on or can it just be one side? I have P0349 and P0344 showing. Which are both for the bank 2 sensor. The engine is running like shit. It's acting like the entire driver side isn't working. I unplugged the injectors one at a time and it didn't change how the engine was running. Plus there's no heat coming from the driver side exhaust. So my first thought is ECU. But the last couple times I drove the car at night I noticed the headlights dimming at idle and brightening up when I revved the engine. I put the battery on the battery tender overnight and it didn't run any better the next day. Is it worth getting the alternator checked out before sending the ECU out for repair?

Edit: I already pulled the valve covers and everything looked good. All the followers were tight and the chains seemed tight as well. The timing components were replaced about 10k miles ago.

 

[thump_rrr]

Do codes for both sensors have to come on or can it just be one side? I have P0349 and P0344 showing. Which are both for the bank 2 sensor. The engine is running like shit. It's acting like the entire driver side isn't working. I unplugged the injectors one at a time and it didn't change how the engine was running. Plus there's no heat coming from the driver side exhaust. So my first thought is ECU. But the last couple times I drove the car at night I noticed the headlights dimming at idle and brightening up when I revved the engine. I put the battery on the battery tender overnight and it didn't run any better the next day. Is it worth getting the alternator checked out before sending the ECU out for repair?

Edit: I already pulled the valve covers and everything looked good. All the followers were tight and the chains seemed tight as well. The timing components were replaced about 10k miles ago.

When I've had the P0340 code for the alternator which has been at least 5 times the car never ran bad and I've run it till the PCM was shutting down everything around me trying to keep power going to the engine.
power windows, AC, dashboard lights, headlights, tail lights, hazard lights.

My guess would be either cam phaser or VCT solenoid with solenoid being the most likely if you replaced the phasers 10K ago.

Did you replace the solenoids?

You may be able to swap the solenoids without removing the valve covers.
https://youtu.be/D_Mo-fHUVDg

 

[01yellerCobra]

The solenoids were replaced as well. I didn't want to have to go in and do any of it again.

 

[thump_rrr]

Try swapping cam position sensors from bank 1 and 2 or just replace the bank 2 sensor.
It's the cheapest easiest thing to start with.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Here's everything I've done so far.....

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121169

 

[thump_rrr]

if you look at the exhaust is it black?
Mine was showing lean last summer when it was actually pig rich because it was trying to compensate.

This was my O2 issue last summer
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116194

 

[01yellerCobra]

The exhaust isn't black. Like I said in the other post, if you put your hand at the tailpipe, it's cold. Like blowing over your hand cold. There is no heat from that side.

I tried to get the alternator checked out, but they didn't have the right set up. Since the bearings were squeaking I went ahead and bought a replacement alternator. I'll try to get the ECU sent out tomorrow.