2010 Auto trans. Slips from 2nd to 3rd just bought car ... uggggg

[bl817]

I hope you get your transmission issue sorted out. why are you so set on getting headers? they are a PITA and don't really help increase HP until you go FI. plus add to the fact that passing inspection is a BIG PITA. put that money towards suspension or wheels/tires. just my $.02. good luck

 

[tjm73]

headers don't really show a benefit until you are talking 450 whp according to our own Dept. of Boost.

 

[Wes06]

even if they didnt help much when I was NA, damn do they sound good

 

[RED09GT]

It may just be low, my explorer had a shift flare after doing a pan drop/filter change. Checked the level, added more until it steadily streamed out, problem solved. Also, I can't remember the exact size but a fitting out of the weatherhead chest at your local parts store will do the trick, no need for the special tool, under $3 if I recall.

If you don't already know, never punch it it to make the transmission downshift with these 5R's-either manually downshift it and then get on it or use just enough throttle to get it to shift, then punch it. Many of these have been turned to a bucket of bolts from a WOT downshift.

 

[deezdrama]

It may just be low, my explorer had a shift flare after doing a pan drop/filter change. Checked the level, added more until it steadily streamed out, problem solved. Also, I can't remember the exact size but a fitting out of the weatherhead chest at your local parts store will do the trick, no need for the special tool, under $3 if I recall.

If you don't already know, never punch it it to make the transmission downshift with these 5R's-either manually downshift it and then get on it or use just enough throttle to get it to shift, then punch it. Many of these have been turned to a bucket of bolts from a WOT downshift.

Wasnt aware of that Ill be sure to manually downshift....

Maybe headers arent the ticket, the more I read the more I see they gain little hp untill making boost. We all like to say we are going to get a power adder in the future but realistically wont be in my budget anytime soon.


I was going to do headers/offroad H/ and a catback that I havnt decided on yet. Then get brenspeed tune
Next year planned on 3.73 gears and cams

Id probably benefit more from just an offroad midpipe and tune at the moment. Money is a little tight, didnt get to claim 2 of my kids on taxes so.....

I need a short list for mods to do on a budget.
Was going to order sct x4 from brenspeed next fri but maybe should wait another week or so and throw in an O-R h pipe, would that make the most gains on a tight budget right now?

I got trans filter, adapter, oil gun , and 6 qrts royal purple on the way. Going to order coils and plugs soon and change out fuel filter for good measure.....
Will only have about a grand to play with in the short term so thinking offroad midpipe and tune. I have the roush CAI but dont know if its any good or not. I thinks its ok for no tune so dont know if it will give me much gains with a tune?

My axle back looks kind of janky like a garage hack job, my cat back is just solid pipe no resonators no mufflers. Not sure if its aftermarket or a hackjob. Any opinions?






Also...I dont want exhaust so loud that all neighbors hate me. If I get OR h pipe im sure with no mufflers it will be too loud, I like the sound it has now (cats and no muffs) what muffs would keep the nice low throaty growl but quiet it down a bit?
I have thrush 2 chamber welded mufflers on one of my vics with gutted cats and sounds great but even thats a little too loud when just cruising

 

[Wes06]

midpipe OEM is no resonators<atleast in 05-09, dunno if they added them for 10 with the body or kept them the same> and a cross over where the pipes get close.

from the sideways pic, it looks like the muffler was deleted and just a bit of tubing welded in with a tip on it i assume.

and yes, Off Road H with no mufflers will be FUCK YOUR NEIGHBORS loud, id recommend something to replace the delete's, My car with longtubes, offroad h and ford mufflers is good at cruising, loud as fuck WOT, and start up it gets pretty loud, but just driving and cruising it doesnt seem to bad

 

[deezdrama]

Maybe ill just go with thrush 2 chambers like on my vic that i gutted cats.
The thrush mufflers are pretty much flowmaster 40s I believe.
I dont have stock muffs to throw back on so will have to buy a pair of something.

If i got my sct x4 and brenspeed tune next week vs waiting untill i get offroad midpipe...... anyone have idea of hp loss by still having cats on there?

What about my roush CAI? Good enough or would see better gains with a tune required cai?


The one i got ...
http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/Mustang-Cold-Air-Intake-Kit-2010-2012.html

 

[eighty6gt]

Tr6060 setups come up fairly regularly

 

[tjm73]

The days of cats costing a bunch of power are longer over. I'd be surprised if ditching the cats gain you ten horsepower. Sound yes. Significant power increase, nope.

 

[tjm73]

The days of cats costing a bunch of power are longer over. I'd be surprised if ditching the cats gain you ten horsepower. Sound yes. Significant power increase, nope.

 

[deezdrama]

Hmmm... maybe ill just get the tuner from brenspeed fri then and save other mods for when i got some more disposable money.

 

[46addict]

Headers may be more of a viable mod if you can get them for less than $200. They may not add a bunch of power now but they'll set the foundation for cams and/or boost. Once you get that trans addressed I would do exhaust like you were planning to do. There are several members here who have had good results with these. Going this route means you'll need to rethink your midpipe choice because a midpipe made for your stock manifolds won't work anymore. Which means you may need to delay your tune purchase if you're trying to pay for a tune just once so it's all up to you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-05-09-4-6L-V8-Stainless-Steel-Long-Tube-Header/122730083077?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

[tjm73]

What ever you do, formulate your plan before you spend much money. You will have less waste that way.

 

[Turbo302]

That 5R transmission is a real POS unfortunately. I’ve rebuilt a few and the components remind me of something that should be used in a little Fiat, not something with a strong V8!

If yours has low miles and not a lot of material in the pan, I would get a new solenoid pack for it. It’s something that can be done with the pan off.

The servo bore pin leak issue seems to become more an issue on higher mile units.

Another thing to consider is if it’s working fine now, trade it in toward a 2011-up 5.0 6R80 combo Mustang. The price difference will be way less than a rebuild. That trans is a super stout very strong unit that will take anything you can throw at it.

I ordered a new Mustang GT in 2014 and the 6R80 was a real big factor in the Powertrain department.

I am not a 5R fan at all. I have had so many Explorers in the shop with bad ones and I hate breaking customers hearts with the news that they are in for a $2-3k repair...uggg

 

[tjm73]

Dude. He JUST bought this car.

Actually if you bought it from a dealer, can you make them inspect/service the transmission? I know this varies from state to state.

 

[Turbo302]

I now realize you just got car. I’d replace the solenoid block if you love the car, but be prepared to deal with the 5R in the future as it’s really a red headed stepchild of the transmission world (brings in a lot of $$ though).

Personally I’d cut losses before long and upgrade to a Coyote 6R80 combo and never look back!

 

[tjm73]

Another option is drive it with band-aid fixes for a couple years and if you still are in love with it swap a 6R80 into it with a stand alone controller when/if it fails you. There is a member that has a large thread chronicling his 6R swap and tuning of said swap in a 05-09 car.

 

[deezdrama]

I emailed the dealer about the issue im having and hinted around about a trans flush but they were pretty much unhelpfull....

Ive got my fluid,filter,oil gun, and adapter.
Weather is getting freezing again so dont know when ill have a chance to change filter and partial fluid change.

Im going to build some full length wooden ramps since i see myself being under this car quite a bit. Not just for this but for exhaust and maybe a fluid film undercarriage treatment.

Anyway... should i be replacing the solenoid pack while im in there?
Been reading alot about alot of issues with these transmissions, input shaft wearing the bore, solenoid pack, valve body, band issues.

Almost just makes me want to change filter and drive it till the transmission takes a crap and order a remanufactured 5r55s. Would remanufactured units have all these problems fixed or would it be prone to the same issues?

Ive seen some reman 5r55s with 5 year warantees for $1800 free shipping.... I just dont know who to buy from and what best deal is if it comes to that.

Anyway, im hoping its just low fluid level but noticed the 2-3 flare once or twice more just not as bad and always at cruising speed. Thought i felt a hard shift from r to d but im overly paranoid now and drive with heat blower fan on low and music off everwhere i go now listening to shifts lol. Sometimes they seem sluggish, sometimes they seem firm .... i dont know.

After changing partial fluid and filter if pan dont look like its full of charbroiled crud should i go ahead with the tune or would that cook the trans faster?

Tempted to buy a reman unit and put this one on the stand and do some research on rebuilding it with better parts then id have a backup.

Still on the fence about the fillertube pan... its alot of money for not getting any extra capacity. Been trying to find new old stock of the nolonger produced high capacity/ filler tube pan but empty handed i am.

 

[Gabe]

Have you seen these guys yet?
https://www.sonnax.com/units/190-5r55s

Also, according to this thread you might have a 3rd gear band going out:
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/modular-mustangs/428914-5r55s-owners.html

That's just some quick Google findings when I searched for "5r55s shift flare"

 

[Windstang]

I installed my own dipstick in my tranny. What a PITA that Ford didn't install one - an attempt to extract money from owners - a lightbulb moment brought to you by the accountants at Ford... I removed the pan to change the filter and drilled a hole in it and used some hydraulic fittings and hose and ran it up beside the battery. I used a Tranny dipstick I got from a wrecker and it looks OEM. After refilling it, I marked the dipstick with a file so I could check the fluid level. This allows me to check the level and add fluid as required. (much cheaper than a whole new pan etc) although a deeper pan with more fluid would have been nice. When I drained the fluid, I measured what came out at each step so I could add as required. Measurements were as follows:
1) Removed center plug - .9 Liter
2) Removed drain plug - 1.6 Liter
3) removed pan and measured residual - 1.65 Liters
Total 4.15 Liters
This is with the fluid cold (~ 70F). The 'snorkel' extends about 1" up into the pan - when you drop the pan you will see what I mean about a snorkel. I add 4.5 liters if I remove the pan and filter (to account for the oil the filter holds) and found that the extra oil level doesn't hurt. The only issue with my home made dipstick, is that I have to disconnect it when I drop the pan. Since installing it, I only only dropped the pan once and generally only do a drain and fill - probably next fall I'll drop the pan change the filter again.

I have generally found low fluid levels are first experienced when at a stop and you try to go and engine rev go up until the tranny 'cathces'. Good luck with your 2-3 shift. Hopefully some extra fluid helps. I tried some Lucas Tranny fluid in an MKX and found it improved the shifting.

 

[Turbo302]

The symptoms your describing lead me to a solenoid Pack concern. The “hard shift” from R to D and flair’s especially if fine other times would point me towards that.

The biggest thing when considering any of the “reman” tranny’s is if they have all the updates and if they have the servo pin bores reamed out and replaced/resized with a bronze sleeve.

If you go that route, I would find someone who has history with the 5r55e.

If you find a good core or want to rebuild one yourself, they are actually not a bad one to do. You just got to be meticulous with cleanliness and not forcing anything’s together. You will have to find someone with a servo bore kit with the appropriate reamers drivers and bushings.

I would definitely try a solenoid pack while servicing as if in the long run if you end up rebuilding, you would want a new pack in there regardless.

I get most of my rebuild parts from www.wittrans.com