2011 Strut Mount Question

[Kenneth Molleson]

Tie rods/ends are so worn that the car was scary to drive so taking the opportunity for as many suspension upgrades as I could get, since I'll be having it aligned anyway. At 90k, i'm interested in upgrading to the GT500 Strut Mounts. I know this means I must use the 05-10 Struts, but will it all just bolt into my 2011 w/ issue? Waiting for confirmation prior to purchase but here's my current shopping list (open to opinions or recommendations):

- BMR LCA and Relocation kit
- BMR Panhard Support
- BMR Adjustable Panhard
- BMR Lowering Sprints (SP065R)
- GT500 Strut Mounts
- 05-10 Koni Orange Shocks and Struts
- BMR Diff Bushings
- Energy Suspension Front/Rear Sway Bar Bushings
- FPP Bump Stops

 

[SilBult]

It should bolt right in, just make sure you have the mounts facing the right direction. I have Vorshlag's street pro set up on my '14 GT and it uses the early '05-'10 Bilstein struts with their castor/camber plates. So long as you use early mounts with early struts or late mounts with late '11-'14 struts it should be OK. I have a BMR adjustable panhard rod and it seems to work OK. The poly bushings can squeak a little even when greased in cold weather. No personal experience with any of the other parts listed so no opinion. FWIW Maximum Motorsports I think has the only relocation brackets that don't require welding. J&M's seem to be similar.

 

[Kenneth Molleson]

BMRs specifies that it's bolt on. If not, I just bought a welder for my coyote swapped f100 project so i'll get 'em in there either way.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Add the BMR adj. UCA and mount and your covered.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Koni Oranges suck. Multiple people have had them fail including myself, twice. The GT500 mounts will bolt right in using the 05-10 struts. Bump stops, save your money and cut the top nib off. BMR relos are bolt on. Youd be better off with Bilstein struts.

 

[dark steed]

If you go with the GT500 strut mounts and are lowered, turn the arrows 180 degrees. I did and my alignment was perfect on a 1.5” drop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

Koni Oranges suck. Multiple people have had them fail including myself, twice. The GT500 mounts will bolt right in using the 05-10 struts. Bump stops, save your money and cut the top nib off. BMR relos are bolt on. Youd be better off with Bilstein struts.

Agree with all of this. Konis suck, Bilsteins are a much better solution - both for handling as well as for longevity.

 

[Kenneth Molleson]

I hear ya'll on the Bilsteins, and a few years ago, they would have been my first pick, but the car only sees a track maybe once a year so adjustability and cost just aren't in the right spot for them as most of my cash is headed towards my Coyote swapped F100 project. When that's done, the Mustang may never see a track again and live out the rest of it's life as my DD. From what I can tell, most of the Koni failures were from tracking the vehicles (which conveniently voids their crap warranty) so I'm hoping I'll be okay with the significantly cheaper oranges with simple "spirited" daily driving.

 

[Kenneth Molleson]

If you go with the GT500 strut mounts and are lowered, turn the arrows 180 degrees. I did and my alignment was perfect on a 1.5” drop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks! I've read this in a couple places now and think i'm going to try it. I'll pick-up a set of BMR camber bolts as a "just in case" option, and return them if I don't need them. The thought of using camber bolts has been terrifying, given the horror stories I've read but after talking to a local mustang shop, I feel a little better about them on a DD car, even if I get it out to a track day once a year. The near certainty of pops and clunks associated w/ caster/camber plates just wasn't going to work for me on a daily basis. Hoping this works out to be the best option!

 

[Kenneth Molleson]

Add the BMR adj. UCA and mount and your covered.

You think I should add this now? A lot of consensus I've gotten thus far was to try the LCAs first and if you still have issues, do the UCA too. To be fair, I've never had wheel hop issues, but the drive-train slop while shifting is absurd and I was hoping this would help. I just thought I could get away w/o doing the upper initially and squeeze it in after, without an alignment if necessary. I'm interested in further thoughts and opinions on this though.

 

[Midlife Crises]

You think I should add this now?

If you install lowering springs the pinion angle will change. The adj. upper allows you to correct that so yes, install it with the lowering springs and lower control arms, relocation brackets and diff. bushing.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Bilsteins arent adjustable.

 

[SalSnyder]

I did GT500 strut mounts & Koni orange STRs with stock springs on my 2014 GT. I did get the 2005-10 Konis and it was fine. You should be aware that the Konis will lower the front end about an inch, which has been discussed in various places. Also, the GT500 mounts have a built-in camber factor which is why people point the arrow the other way to correct for excessive negative camber on lowered cars. With the Koni STRs, I am seeing what looks like a fair amount of negative camber even with stock springs, which may be attributable to the 1 inch lowering that resulted with the STRs. I haven't measured, but can see it with the naked eye, so it's probably too much. At this point I am contemplating crash bolts to dial it in rather than the flip the strut mount method.