2011, Which rear lower control arms?

06underme

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I am looking at whiteline and UMI. I dont know which to go with. I also look at steedas billet set but they are twice the price but i imagine a little lighter. So, my questions. What is the best of the rear lower control arms to go with sence I autcross? I will be using a relocation bracket as well. Thank you.
 

fdjizm

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CHE's are good had a set for a few years, didn't look so pretty after that.
Rocking BBR billet LCA's now, I got for a good price.
BMR also makes nice ones.
 

BAKnBLK2010

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I have the UMI poly/poly on my car and they are nice arms. I bought them when I had the 2011 car and switched them over to the 2012. Knowing what I know now about the quality parts and awesome customer service BMR provides if I ever need another set they will be BMR along with any other suspension piece I might ever purchase.
 

hwm3

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I am looking at whiteline and UMI. I dont know which to go with. I also look at steedas billet set but they are twice the price but i imagine a little lighter. So, my questions. What is the best of the rear lower control arms to go with sence I autcross? I will be using a relocation bracket as well. Thank you.

I'm running the Whiteline LCAs and relo brackets. They are quality parts and work well.
 

jayman33

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I'm running METCO LCA's, these damn things are freaking tanks! Beautiful billet work too.
 

Sky Render

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Whiteline arms and brackets here. If you install them correctly and use the supplied grease, you'll get amazing performance and no noise.

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fun4me

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Whiteline arms and brackets here. If you install them correctly and use the supplied grease, you'll get amazing performance and no noise.

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What about the fact that the WL arms dont have an articulating joint.
 

Department Of Boost

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I’ve had 5 sets of LCA’s on my car and tested a 6th set out on 908SSP’s car. The only ones that I have used that do not cause snap oversteer are the J&M ones. The “poly ball”, or whatever they call them and the “extremejointl” units. Both of them articulating joints. I’m sure a real heim joint arm would work great too, but they will knock your teeth out.

Every “standard” poly bushing arm, especially the billet ones I have run had horrendous snap oversteer. Very fun, but not terribly safe and certainly not the fast war around.

I have not run the Whiteline units.
 
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The JM arms look like Spohns delspheres or UMI's rotojoints or Currie's Johnny Joints. Its a rebuildable bearing with two Delrin races. Are they load adjustable and rebuildable?

What do you think causes the snap oversteer with the other control arms?
 

Department Of Boost

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The JM arms look like Spohns delspheres or UMI's rotojoints or Currie's Johnny Joints. Its a rebuildable bearing with two Delrin races. Are they load adjustable and rebuildable?
The “Poly-Ball” joints aren’t adjustable. You could adjust the “Extreme” ones with shims. They are both easily rebuildbale.

What do you think causes the snap oversteer with the other control arms?

Turn car into corner.

Load up contact patch.

Load up spring(s).

Load up poly bushings with no articulation to full “compression”.

Break traction by slipping the contact patch or hitting a bump.

The energy stored in the bushings/arms unwinds violently and with no damping making the car snap over steer.

My theory^^^^^^:thumb2:

I don’t think it is all in the bushings though. I think it is a combination of the bushings and the geometry of the rear suspension. At a certain load point everything gets bound up/twisted/etc and when that unwinds things go sideways…..literally.
 
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I was wondering if you thought it was the bushings or the arm itself binding up. The hourglass shape of the stock LCA wasn't an accident.....I don't think. I've been told that even the worst of poly bushings are good for 4 or 5 degrees of roll. Like you said though, that is undamped spring rate. I like your theory, it makes sense to me.
 

Sleeper_08

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I originally ran poly/poly LCA's on my car which is used for track days.

I switched to poly/rod after it was suggested as being the best combination for a car which is tracked because poly/poly bind up when the car rolls and adds to roll stiffness.

The best would be rod/rod but on a car driven on the street the noise would not be tolerable.

Also your LCA's should be level with the car at rest for the most stable handling.
 

06underme

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I’ve had 5 sets of LCA’s on my car and tested a 6th set out on 908SSP’s car. The only ones that I have used that do not cause snap oversteer are the J&M ones. The “poly ball”, or whatever they call them and the “extremejointl” units. Both of them articulating joints. I’m sure a real heim joint arm would work great too, but they will knock your teeth out.

Every “standard” poly bushing arm, especially the billet ones I have run had horrendous snap oversteer. Very fun, but not terribly safe and certainly not the fast war around.

I have not run the Whiteline units.

So in your opinion do you feel the J&M are superior for autocross?

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 

BirdMan65

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Spohn Extreme Joint Arms

I bought a set of Spohn Extreme Joint LCA's and the adjustable upper Spohn Extreme Joint UCA. I reused the stock rubber diff. bushing.

I didn't like the noise (snapping) when hitting some short bumps on the country road I drive a lot. I tightened them numerous times trying to quiet them down. Finally at 35 ft.lbs. torque they were somewhat adequate. I reinstalled the rectangular tubular LCA poly ones that came on my used 2006 GT (55,000 miles) and the stock UCA and the snapping noise went away and r&p whine quited down also. My car is street driven only, though.
 

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