8.8 issue, questions inside

redstangs9308gt

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OK, I have searched the forums and I know I most likely have a pinion bearing or a crush sleave failure. But this is where my situation is different.
My pinion flange has been leaking for a long time and just recently within the past 400 miles I have been feeling a vibration from the rear of the car. So today I am working under the car for the first time in a while and I start to do the usual checks for issues. I can move my driveshaft up and down, left to right at least a half inch or better. I thought it was a ujoint but the whole pinion flange is moving with the driveshaft. My main concern is with that amount of slack could I have tore up my differential?
Is this a repairable issue without a major overhaul.
I need some information please.
 

tmcolegr

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  • pinion nut has come loose = known issue
  • crush sleeve has collapsed = known issue
  • pinion bearings have failed
chances are the end result isn't going to be an inexpensive repair as now the ring & pinion most likely have damage
 

redstangs9308gt

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Thanks. I was wanting to do a regear anyways so now is a perfect time to do so. Like always the main issue is down to this. Finding a competent shop around here to do the work that isn't going to charge me a fortune. This will make the 3rd time the rear has been doctored. :moan:
 

fastback

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crush sleeves dont fail. they are directly related to install or repair..
at the worst you may need all new bearings and ring and pinion...
 

BruceH

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crush sleeves dont fail. they are directly related to install or repair..
at the worst you may need all new bearings and ring and pinion...

They do when you launch with drag radials. At least mine did. Now I'm on a solid spacer.
 

tmcolegr

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Does anyone know the part number for the solid spacer?

I have used 2 different styles of solid spacers in lei of the OEM crush sleeve. The first style is a solid spacer that requires machining until the correct pinion bearing preload is achieved. techcargt has already posted a link to this style of spacer. The second style uses a combination of a solid spacer and shims

http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear/836/04-0011-S/10002/-1?parentProductId=744540

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-04-0011-S/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-4105/

both achieve the same results

FWIW - I prefer the solid spacer with shims as it requires no machining and is quicker to assemble. Also if you inadvertently machine too much off of the spacer, it's garbage for that installation. When I assemble a pinion using a solid spacer, I preassemble it without installing the pinion seal as the pinion seal adds a slight amount of drag (.5 to 1 in. lbs.) to the rotating torque and can give a higher (false) pinion bearing preload than is actually being applied to the pinion bearings. I also suggest lubricating the pinion bearings with the same oil as will be used after the axle is put into service. I use a pinion nut that has the last 4-5 threads machined off the end during preload setting. This prevents the locking threads on the pinion nut from damaging the pinion threads as the nut is installed and removed numerous times during the preload setting procedure. After the correct preload has been set, I disassemble the pinion, install the pinion seal and use a new pinion nut which is purple (not orange) in color - latest design.

Hint: if available when reassembling a pinion, measure the thickness of the old collapsible spacer. Then install the solid spacer + shims = to the thickness of the old collapsible spacer + .003" - .005". Your pinion bearing preload will be very close. Saves time rather than starting without any point of reference.

http://www.ratechmfg.com/fordspbs.htm

Here's an alternative to an OEM crush sleeve or solid spacer & shims, although I have never personally used one

http://www.ratechmfg.com/smart%20sleeve.htm
 
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