A Bunch of NITROUS questions!

[waketek516]

So I got a sweet deal on here for a basic Zex wet kit. I've searched tons of threads and learned a lot about these kits (thank you again S197 tech). I've decided that I'll run a 100 shot, HT0s, and get custom tuned with my boy Greg at RET in Downey, CA. BAP is a possibility depending on the Fuel Pump Duty Cycles when tuning.

However, with learning - came more questions...

1. I'm going to be running the kit with the TPS switch and a window switch. My car currently has an MSD 2-step, and I'm wondering if there is an issue with that when I'm launching at the track? N/A this past season I was launching the car around 5k (with slicks). That's gotta be close to the voltage that turns the system on through the TPS, and I'm worried that if it cuts spark, I'm going to damage something if its spraying.

2. The kit I got came with a Zex single outlet purge. I want to custom mount everything and may need to run lines longer than what is supplied in the kit. I want to hide the control box, lines, and purge solenoid, and may even try to route the purge so goes out of my scoop. My question is - is it okay to lengthen the purge & feed lines, and what sizes do I need. I haven't worked with AN fittings yet so I'm unfamiliar with recognizing the sizes by eye. I believe my feed line is 6AN and the purge line may be 4AN, but can someone confirm that?

3. I'll also be adding a bottle warmer to the kit along with some gauges (AF, N2O, Fuel). Is there a way to wire the warmer so that when the bottle reaches optimal pressure it shuts off? I know some of the warmers have a thermostat, but I'm not familiar if it reads off bottle pressure or actual temperature.

Thanks in advance for you help on this!

 

[Embalmer]

I can only help with #3, my bottle heater is the NOS variety, and it has a "thermostat", if you will, so sensors touch the bottle and will turn the heat off once it gets to a certain temperature.

I don't think lengthening the lines will be an issue, but you want the solenoids as close to the nozzle as possible.

 

[TheKurgan]

You won't be able to use the 2 step and spray because that requires you to activate the TPS switch. The results of that will be some really loud explosions in the exhaust and potentially a backfire.

 

[mikeysgt]

there should be enough length in the lines to run them however you want. I had a lot of extra line with my setup. even cut a lot off the purge lines to shorten them. one thing about mounting them to the hood for purging is being able to keep it secure. there's a lot of pressure coming out of the purge lines and they'll back out of the scoop if you can't fasten them securely. I was going to set up my lines Coming out of my top vents but there was no way I could secure the lines to the hood strong enough to hold the lines in place. I ended up hooking one purge line on each side of my front grill with the dual purge setup I had.


I'd also recommend investing in a quality bottle warmer wired in for power instead of the crappy ones you plug into the cigarette lighter plug in. I had the zex kit one and it was crap. never really warmed the Bottle up fast enough at the track. before leaving for the track during cold days I'd submerge my bottle into a tub and run the hot water over it until the pressure went up to where I wanted. a lot safer than the stupid blow torch method. then the bottle warmer did an ok job of keeping the pressure constant as I left to the track and the rest of the night. during the summer was a different story here since it gets really damn hot. never needed the bottle warmer. just used the purge to get the pressure down when it was needed

 

[joedls]

1. I'm going to be running the kit with the TPS switch and a window switch. My car currently has an MSD 2-step, and I'm wondering if there is an issue with that when I'm launching at the track? N/A this past season I was launching the car around 5k (with slicks). That's gotta be close to the voltage that turns the system on through the TPS, and I'm worried that if it cuts spark, I'm going to damage something if its spraying.

You can do a few different things here.

1. If you hold the accelerator down just enough to reach your launch RPM and not to the floor, the TPS switch shouldn't activate your nitrous.
2. You can set your window switch to not spray in 1st gear.
3. Or you can set your window switch to activate higher than your launch RPM (but that would probably mean that you want to lower your launch RPM. Example......If you set your 2-step at 4500 RPM, set your window switch to activate at 4600 RPM.)

3. I'll also be adding a bottle warmer to the kit along with some gauges (AF, N2O, Fuel). Is there a way to wire the warmer so that when the bottle reaches optimal pressure it shuts off? I know some of the warmers have a thermostat, but I'm not familiar if it reads off bottle pressure or actual temperature.

I have a pressure switch. I like it better than using a thermostat.

 

[waketek516]

First off - that's for all the informative replies!

You won't be able to use the 2 step and spray because that requires you to activate the TPS switch. The results of that will be some really loud explosions in the exhaust and potentially a backfire.

The 2-Step isn't activated by the TPS - it activates off a signal from the COPs and then pulls spark to hold the RPM.

there should be enough length in the lines to run them however you want. I had a lot of extra line with my setup. even cut a lot off the purge lines to shorten them. one thing about mounting them to the hood for purging is being able to keep it secure. there's a lot of pressure coming out of the purge lines and they'll back out of the scoop if you can't fasten them securely. I was going to set up my lines Coming out of my top vents but there was no way I could secure the lines to the hood strong enough to hold the lines in place. I ended up hooking one purge line on each side of my front grill with the dual purge setup I had.


I'd also recommend investing in a quality bottle warmer wired in for power instead of the crappy ones you plug into the cigarette lighter plug in. I had the zex kit one and it was crap. never really warmed the Bottle up fast enough at the track. before leaving for the track during cold days I'd submerge my bottle into a tub and run the hot water over it until the pressure went up to where I wanted. a lot safer than the stupid blow torch method. then the bottle warmer did an ok job of keeping the pressure constant as I left to the track and the rest of the night. during the summer was a different story here since it gets really damn hot. never needed the bottle warmer. just used the purge to get the pressure down when it was needed

Good point on the pressure of the lines - I was thinking it would look awesome coming out of my huge scoop, but I'll have to come up with a solid way to mount it if I go that route.

I'm DEFINITELY not going with a cigarette lighter bottle warmer. I already have a pretty sweet switch panel so the warmer will be wired to that.

You can do a few different things here.

1. If you hold the accelerator down just enough to reach your launch RPM and not to the floor, the TPS switch shouldn't activate your nitrous.
2. You can set your window switch to not spray in 1st gear.
3. Or you can set your window switch to activate higher than your launch RPM (but that would probably mean that you want to lower your launch RPM. Example......If you set your 2-step at 4500 RPM, set your window switch to activate at 4600 RPM.)

I have a pressure switch. I like it better than using a thermostat.

Hey Joe! I want spray in 1st for the additional torque. Can you program the window switch for each gear? For example if I set my 2-step to 4,000 RPM launch, but have the N2O come on in 1st gear at 4,500 - that should be fine. Then for gears 2-4 I'd have the spray going from 3-5,900RPMs.

Also, where did you get a pressure switch to run the bottle warmer? That's the ideal setup in my eyes since it goes on and off with bottle pressure instead of temperature.

 

[KungFuHamster]

The 2-Step isn't activated by the TPS - it activates off a signal from the COPs and then pulls spark to hold the RPM.

this will cause a backfire and blow your intake manifold. and all the kings men and all the kings horses will be unable to put it back together again.

 

[joedls]

Hey Joe! I want spray in 1st for the additional torque. Can you program the window switch for each gear? For example if I set my 2-step to 4,000 RPM launch, but have the N2O come on in 1st gear at 4,500 - that should be fine. Then for gears 2-4 I'd have the spray going from 3-5,900RPMs.

Also, where did you get a pressure switch to run the bottle warmer? That's the ideal setup in my eyes since it goes on and off with bottle pressure instead of temperature.

If you are going to set your launch RPM to 4,000, then set your window switch to activate at 4,100 RPM. Your RPMS shouldn't fall below 4100 RPM during your run, so you should be good.

Here's a switch I found on Summit.

 

[Germeezy3]

If you have it in your budget, find a used Nano system....it will save you the juggling of bottle pressure and temperature and not being able to use all the nitrous in the tank.

http://www.nano-nitrous.com/howitworks.shtml

 

[waketek516]

this will cause a backfire and blow your intake manifold. and all the kings men and all the kings horses will be unable to put it back together again.

Yeah I figured as much - I was just pointing out that the 2-step gets its signal off the COP, and the Nitrous from the TPS. Ultimately, I'd blow it up either way though. haha

If you are going to set your launch RPM to 4,000, then set your window switch to activate at 4,100 RPM. Your RPMS shouldn't fall below 4100 RPM during your run, so you should be good.

Here's a switch I found on Summit.

Hummmm so I can set first gear parameters on their own? That's good to know.

As for the switch - how did you wire that so the bottle warmer shuts on and off??

If you have it in your budget, find a used Nano system....it will save you the juggling of bottle pressure and temperature and not being able to use all the nitrous in the tank.

http://www.nano-nitrous.com/howitworks.shtml

This looks like a great system. What are they usually priced at? I guess you figure by the time you get a warmer and switches for it does it make sense to go with a NANO instead?



Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

[joedls]

Hummmm so I can set first gear parameters on their own? That's good to know.

As for the switch - how did you wire that so the bottle warmer shuts on and off??

No, that's not what I'm saying. If you have a Zex window switch you can't program different RPM ranges for different gears. You can just program which gear you want it to start spraying in.

What I said was that when you set your switch to activate higher than your launch RPM (in your case 4000 RPM for 2-step and 4100 for nitrous activation) you won't have your nitrous spray while on the 2-step. Then you should be good to go because you shouldn't drop below 4100 on your run anyway.

If you are going to set your launch RPM to 4,000, then set your window switch to activate at 4,100 RPM. Your RPMS shouldn't fall below 4100 RPM during your run, so you should be good.

Here's a switch I found on Summit.

As for the switch - how did you wire that so the bottle warmer shuts on and off??

I don't remember. It's been awhile since I wired it. I'll take a look at it this weekend and get back to you.

 

[waketek516]

No, that's not what I'm saying. If you have a Zex window switch you can't program different RPM ranges for different gears. You can just program which gear you want it to start spraying in.

What I said was that when you set your switch to activate higher than your launch RPM (in your case 4000 RPM for 2-step and 4100 for nitrous activation) you won't have your nitrous spray while on the 2-step. Then you should be good to go because you shouldn't drop below 4100 on your run anyway.

I don't remember. It's been awhile since I wired it. I'll take a look at it this weekend and get back to you.

Gotcha gotcha! Man - I'd be afraid to bog then and accidentally spray while on the limiter. Maybe I'll just turn off the 2-step when spraying, and save it for the NA runs


And thanks for looking at the switch when you can. That'll be good to know when I do the install this summer.

 

[joedls]

Gotcha gotcha! Man - I'd be afraid to bog then and accidentally spray while on the limiter. Maybe I'll just turn off the 2-step when spraying, and save it for the NA runs


And thanks for looking at the switch when you can. That'll be good to know when I do the install this summer.

You wouldn't. Once you pull your foot off the clutch pedal, the 2-step is no longer engaged and the window switch keeps it from spraying unless you're in the correct RPM range. It won't spray if you bog and drop below 4100 RPM.

 

[Germeezy3]

Yeah I figured as much - I was just pointing out that the 2-step gets its signal off the COP, and the Nitrous from the TPS. Ultimately, I'd blow it up either way though. haha



Hummmm so I can set first gear parameters on their own? That's good to know.

As for the switch - how did you wire that so the bottle warmer shuts on and off??



This looks like a great system. What are they usually priced at? I guess you figure by the time you get a warmer and switches for it does it make sense to go with a NANO instead?



Thanks again for all the help guys!

The Nano system is more expensive than a heater and the switches new, but the benefit is the time you spend worrying about the heater and the bottle pressure and if its warm out or its cold out completely goes away. With a bottle heater its only one run or two before you start loosing bottle pressure.

 

[waketek516]

You wouldn't. Once you pull your foot off the clutch pedal, the 2-step is no longer engaged and the window switch keeps it from spraying unless you're in the correct RPM range. It won't spray if you bog and drop below 4100 RPM.

Humm... I see what you're saying. Yeah maybe that is doable. I'll have to TnT with different RPMs. I'd Ideally like the Nitrous to come on earlier than 4,000RPMs, but there's no way I can lauch that lower than that I can't be the only guy running a 2-step and N2O. I'll talk to Greg as well and see what he thinks when I get closer to tuning. (I'm still saving up for a lot of parts so this will be a really fun & safe kit.)

The Nano system is more expensive than a heater and the switches new, but the benefit is the time you spend worrying about the heater and the bottle pressure and if its warm out or its cold out completely goes away. With a bottle heater its only one run or two before you start loosing bottle pressure.

Looks like the NANO sport kit is $450+. I understand all the benefits of it, but I'm just not sure if that's in the budget right now. I'm really going with the nitrous for a few years as a less expensive power adder option to hold me over while I get some finances in order for next steps in the personal life.

There's still quite a few parts I need to save up for and buy before I go get it tuned. Still on the list:

1. Window Switch - $150.00
2. Gauges (Fuel, N2O, A/F) - $400+
3. Blow Down Kit - $40
4. Bottle Heater - $130
5. Bottle Bracket - $20
6. Bottle Opener - $200
7. HTOs - $100

 

[joedls]

Humm... I see what you're saying. Yeah maybe that is doable. I'll have to TnT with different RPMs. I'd Ideally like the Nitrous to come on earlier than 4,000RPMs, but there's no way I can lauch that lower than that I can't be the only guy running a 2-step and N2O. I'll talk to Greg as well and see what he thinks when I get closer to tuning. (I'm still saving up for a lot of parts so this will be a really fun & safe kit.)

If you're going to launch at 4000 RPM and never get below 4000 RPM during the run, why do you want it to spray lower than 4000 RPM?

If you want more control than the window switch gives you, then you should look at some of the progressive controllers that are available. But IMHO, you don't need it.

 

[joedls]

Double post

 

[waketek516]

If you're going to launch at 4000 RPM and never get below 4000 RPM during the run, why do you want it to spray lower than 4000 RPM?

If you want more control than the window switch gives you, then you should look at some of the progressive controllers that are available. But IMHO, you don't need it.

I guess I didn't think of it that way. At the track - yeah that should be fine then. I'll have to look back at my runs and see what RPM I'm turning throughout each gear. I'm sure it's over 4k though.
This was my fastest run ever - Against Scott.


When Iwant to play with it on the street - I could always re-set the window switch and disable the 2-step.


You're the man Joe! I'll post up some pics later of what parts of the kit I have so far.

 

[joedls]

I guess I didn't think of it that way. At the track - yeah that should be fine then. I'll have to look back at my runs and see what RPM I'm turning throughout each gear. I'm sure it's over 4k though.
This was my fastest run ever - Against Scott.


When Iwant to play with it on the street - I could always re-set the window switch and disable the 2-step.


You're the man Joe! I'll post up some pics later of what parts of the kit I have so far.

 

[waketek516]

Here's the parts I have so far:

Purge Kit:

NMU & Fuel Adaptor

Switch Panel:

which is being replaced by the Nitrous Outlet one:

Velvet bottle Bag

What do you guys think of this setup for the brackets/heater?
It comes with the pressure switch that we were talking about, Joe. I think its a good deal considering I need to get brackets and a heater anyway. Just wanted to see what you thought:

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product.asp?category=23&section=76&group=560&product=2775