A few random questions..

[Forty61]

Ok so I’m finally getting to doing some work on the Mustang. I have a couple questions..

1) Is there a way to tell what style plugs to buy without actually pulling one? Looking online it gives two styles typically listed by build date but some also show a coil boot color. My ‘08 has a build date on the door sill of 09/07 and black coils on the plugs. Is this enough info to tell which ones I need?

2) Headliner. My car was in some hail that left some minor hail dings everywhere, I don’t really care about the odd ones on the side but the roof bothers me. I have considering dropping the headliner and trying to smooth them out from below. How hard is it to pull the liner? What’s the process?

3) Hurst shifter handles, are there any options for the chrome part and the knob out there that bolt in place of it? I’ve considered just making one but if an option exists to just buy one I might go that route. I dig the chrome, just not the Hurst written on all of it.

 

[07 Boss]

Black coil packs are the old long reach plugs. I believe the newer style plugs have a brown coil pack.

You need to be able to reach around and hold a dolly on one side while hammering with the other. It can be done with two people but takes an awful lot of coordination. Then of course you would have to sand, fill, smooth, and primer and paint. You're probably going to have to paint the whole roof but that's ok because the drip rails will give you a nice panel break.

I'm sure you can get whatever know you want. If you buy an aftermarket handle/knob it will usually come with a bunch of different connection options and are pretty much universal. The arm you would probably have to fab up.

 

[Juice]

Just pay a PDR guy to fix the hail. Trust me on this, it is well worth it.
Sorry, I have no idea on 3v plugs.

 

[Midlife Crises]

The 14mm plugs that break have a 16mm hex and the late 08 plugs are 12mm with a 14mm hex.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Ok so I’m finally getting to doing some work on the Mustang. I have a couple questions..

1) Is there a way to tell what style plugs to buy without actually pulling one? Looking online it gives two styles typically listed by build date but some also show a coil boot color. My ‘08 has a build date on the door sill of 09/07 and black coils on the plugs. Is this enough info to tell which ones I need?

2) Headliner. My car was in some hail that left some minor hail dings everywhere, I don’t really care about the odd ones on the side but the roof bothers me. I have considering dropping the headliner and trying to smooth them out from below. How hard is it to pull the liner? What’s the process?

3) Hurst shifter handles, are there any options for the chrome part and the knob out there that bolt in place of it? I’ve considered just making one but if an option exists to just buy one I might go that route. I dig the chrome, just not the Hurst written on all of it.

Being as your "08" has the black coil boots and was built before 11/07 means you have the old style 14mm with 16mm hex, high-threaded 2-piece design spark plugs. Unfortunately, Ford didn't revise the spark plug design back to the standard 12mm 1-piece until re-designing the 3v heads after 11/2007 which have the brown coil boots. At any rate, it's the old style 14mm high-threaded, 2 piece spark plugs that your car is designed for. That being said, you can either consider sticking with "OEM" Motorcraft plugs or consider Brisk Racing which does make a 1-piece design 14mm spark plug for the older style 3 valve heads.

 

[pietrzak]

Be careful pulling plugs on the early ones it has been said they could break off, mine has brown coils with new style plugs, just make sure you crank out slowly. I have hurst comp shifter and American Muscle sell plain shift knobs, e bay has them also but universal, AM balls have threaded inserts and good quality

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

OP! Also make certain you either spray or pour in some carb cleaner into the spark plug wells and let soak for at least a few hours in order to dissolve carbon build-up around the ground electrode shields before attempting to extract the spark plugs, otherwise they will separate inside the heads. The first step is break loose each plug between 1/8-1/4 turn, then either spray or pour in carb cleaner in each spark plug well and then allow to soak. After allowing to soak, make sure you take your time when extracting the plugs by using 1/4 turns in a back and forth motion until they feel loose enough to come out with minimal resistance. When installing the new plugs, make certain you apply a thin coat of high-temp nickel anti-seize to each ground electrode shield prior to installing. Then finally, make sure you torque to Ford "OEM" specs of 25ft lbs.

 

[Forty61]

OP! Also make certain you either spray or pour in some carb cleaner into the spark plug wells and let soak for at least a few hours in order to dissolve carbon build-up around the ground electrode shields before attempting to extract the spark plugs, otherwise they will separate inside the heads. The first step is break loose each plug between 1/8-1/4 turn, then either spray or pour in carb cleaner in each spark plug well and then allow to soak. After allowing to soak, make sure you take your time when extracting the plugs by using 1/4 turns in a back and forth motion until they feel loose enough to come out with minimal resistance. When installing the new plugs, make certain you apply a thin coat of high-temp nickel anti-seize to each ground electrode shield prior to installing. Then finally, make sure you torque to Ford "OEM" specs of 25ft lbs.

Good info! I was planning on using PB Blaster but I guess the carb cleaner makes more sense since it’s for carbon buildup. I will make sure I pick some up, luckily it’s not my daily so I can take as long as I want with it.

I’ll make sure to grab the anti-seize and torque wrench too. Thanks!

 

[dark steed]

If they have never been replaced or have been in quite some time, be prepared to break some off. Parts houses used to let you rent the LISLE extractor tool. I have one laying around here somewhere, my daughter has my car right now but I will need to change plugs when I get it back.
(she is now back to work and sending me pictures of SN95s for sale right now LOL)


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[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Good info! I was planning on using PB Blaster but I guess the carb cleaner makes more sense since it’s for carbon buildup. I will make sure I pick some up, luckily it’s not my daily so I can take as long as I want with it.

I’ll make sure to grab the anti-seize and torque wrench too. Thanks!

Either PB blaster or Carb cleaner are effective, but I prefer carb cleaner as recommended by Ford. Also note, when extracting the spark plugs, Ford also recommends doing so on a cold engine or at room temperature, but never on a hot engine, as doing so may increase the risk of cross threading the threads on both inside the heads and spark plugs. Anyhow, just saying from personal experience.

 

[dark steed]

I have seen a video of a guy using the impact action of an air ratchet pulling plugs out of these heads. It seems the impact helps break the carbon loose. Mine were at 100,000 miles and I still broke two using PB blaster and taking my time with a standard ratchet


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[Forty61]

If they have never been replaced or have been in quite some time, be prepared to break some off. Parts houses used to let you rent the LISLE extractor tool. I have one laying around here somewhere, my daughter has my car right now but I will need to change plugs when I get it back.
(she is now back to work and sending me pictures of SN95s for sale right now LOL)


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Not sure if they’ve ever been done, I have never done them but not sure before I got the car. It’s just now pushing 70k miles so I’m sure they’re factory.

Only really considering changing them due to the mileage and the CEL for random misfire that tripped at a track day. Code hasn’t come back on since so it may have just been a symptom of the day but they’re probably due anyway.

Either PB blaster or Carb cleaner are effective, but I prefer carb cleaner as recommended by Ford. Also note, when extracting the spark plugs, Ford also recommends doing so on a cold engine or at room temperature, but never on a hot engine, as doing so would increase the risk of cross threading the threads on both inside the heads and spark plugs. Anyhow, just saying from personal experience.

Thats interesting that it’s recommended to be done cold, typically I’d think slightly warm would be better but I’ll follow their notes. I’ll let them soak for a few hours and pray to the car gods that I don’t have to go grab the removal tool.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Not sure if they’ve ever been done, I have never done them but not sure before I got the car. It’s just now pushing 70k miles so I’m sure they’re factory.

Only really considering changing them due to the mileage and the CEL for random misfire that tripped at a track day. Code hasn’t come back on since so it may have just been a symptom of the day but they’re probably due anyway.



Thats interesting that it’s recommended to be done cold, typically I’d think slightly warm would be better but I’ll follow their notes. I’ll let them soak for a few hours and pray to the car gods that I don’t have to go grab the removal tool.

I think slightly warm would also be okay, but once again, I prefer to follow Ford's recommendation procedure. However, if in the event that any do break? The Lisle extraction tool is pretty effective for removing broken spark plugs.

I have seen a video of a guy using the impact action of an air ratchet pulling plugs out of these heads. It seems the impact helps break the carbon loose. Mine were at 100,000 miles and I still broke two using PB blaster and taking my time with a standard ratchet


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I've also seen videos of using impact guns, however, my main concern would be increasing the risk of possibly cross threading inside the head and the spark plug due from the torque of the impact gun, especially knowing the heads/threads are aluminum. Although, if I were to consider using an impact gun, I would still make sure to use PB blaster or carb cleaner and allow it to loosen most of the carbon build-up just as an added precaution

 

[dark steed]

I just did a quick search, and besides eBay I was surprised to see that Home Depot can get that tool for you! Who would’ve thunk it?


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[Laga]

Carb cleaner is acetone and toluene. Good solvents but little lubricants. PB Blaster and other penetrating oils are petroleum distillates and naphtha. Medium solvents and a little lubricants. Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and and ATF. Thats what I used on my ten year old plugs and none broke after an overnight soak.

 

[Forty61]

Carb cleaner is acetone and toluene. Good solvents but little lubricants. PB Blaster and other penetrating oils are petroleum distillates and naphtha. Medium solvents and a little lubricants. Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and and ATF. Thats what I used on my ten year old plugs and none broke after an overnight soak.

I’ll do that, I have both sitting on the shelf. When the time comes the car will sit overnight to cool with that in the plugs, I have auto stores right near by if I need to rent the Lisle but hopefully your magic mix does the trick!

 

[DieHarder]

I've had good success getting plugs out using an impact on a hot/warm engine. For those who may have to undergo the trial I found a video from a mechanic who uses a hot method with an air impact and does a good job of explaining why his method works (to break up the varnish) and how he gets them to break loose without breaking them in half in the process and does it on the 5.4 which are even more difficult compared to the 4.6.

(5.4 3V Spark Plug Removal)

When I bought my car (used w/100K) I broke three plugs using the cold method and felt extremely fortunate the Lisle tool I bought beforehand was able to get them out. The next time I changed plugs I used the hot method with an impact and didn't break any.

Not wanting to test fate again I switched to a one-piece plug and have had great success with the Brisk plugs. Yes, expensive to be sure but they're a heck of a lot Less expensive vice having to take off or replace a head should the absolute worse case happen.

If you have to change out high mileage original two-piece plugs you may want to consider checking out the hot engine impact method.

 

[Juice]

I like impact guns for stubborn bolts. I think it is better to have the hammering effect vs a constant torque.

How could you possibly cross thread something taking it OUT? Dont use impact gun to install, remove only. And work it back and forth, dont just try to remove in one shot.

They maybe referring to galling removing the plugs (not crossthreading) but there isnt much you can do about galling.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I've had good success getting plugs out using an impact on a hot/warm engine. For those who may have to undergo the trial I found a video from a mechanic who uses a hot method with an air impact and does a good job of explaining why his method works (to break up the varnish) and how he gets them to break loose without breaking them in half in the process and does it on the 5.4 which are even more difficult compared to the 4.6.

(5.4 3V Spark Plug Removal)

When I bought my car (used w/100K) I broke three plugs using the cold method and felt extremely fortunate the Lisle tool I bought beforehand was able to get them out. The next time I changed plugs I used the hot method with an impact and didn't break any.

Not wanting to test fate again I switched to a one-piece plug and have had great success with the Brisk plugs. Yes, expensive to be sure but they're a heck of a lot Less expensive vice having to take off or replace a head should the absolute worse case happen.

If you have to change out high mileage original two-piece plugs you may want to consider checking out the hot engine impact method.

I'm quite certain the next time you changed plugs, they didn't have anywhere close to 100k miles on them compared to the first time when they broke using the cold method. Therefore, chances are none of them would had broken regardless of which method you used the second time around, to begin with anyhow lol.

 

[DieHarder]

The OEM two-piece plugs I installed think I had them in about a year and a half. I also used some copper anti-seize that time so that likely helped. The last plug on the passenger side was still difficult to get out (thought I was going to break it even with the impact gun). According to the mechanic in the video the premise for using the impact is to use an adjustable model and tease the plugs out using the impact action vice full power.

A couple of maintenance routines I now follow are to clean out the carbon buildup from the plug holes with a round wire brush, use anti-seize where recommended and check them at least once a year (spring). First set of one-piece plugs I tried were Champion. They lasted about 2 years (maybe 20 - 30K). Now I'm trying Brisk plugs. They run great. Not sure how long they'll last though. I just installed them a couple of months ago so I'll check them in the spring to see how they look.

Not an expert on two piece plugs but looking at one not sure why a small weld cannot be added at the point where the shells meet. Would the welding compromise the plug in some way (electrical breakdown, warp the body in the some way, not enough room, or just not worth the extra effort)?